Cordell

It's a space frame, how many other GM's have space frame? Ummm, that would be about zero. We're talking about "two fat blokes from Kentucky" here, they're figuring it out. Give it time.

That's ridiculous.

 

Agree. Just glad the Browns are giving their fans hope.

Ok hopefully I can have the day off so I don’t have to call in sick. I’m in.

What I find funny here is what a shitty daily a rotary makes and how they are prone to blowing apex seals, and all these other cars are expensive to maintain or un practical. OP needs to go buy a fucking Prius.

Yes I thought vacuum leak, time to get a smoke machine, as the brake cleaner may not be the best. It’s all stock, and I just got the truck 1200 miles or about 150 gallons ago��. I have run e85, but maybe the prior owner did.

 

So does it have E85 in it now? If it does I’d bet money that this is your issue.

 

E85 Flex Fuel Description

E85 compatible vehicles no longer use an alcohol sensor to determine and adjust for the alcohol content of the fuel in the tank. Instead, the vehicle calculates the alcohol content of the fuel through measured adjustments.

 

The ethanol calculation occurs with the engine running after a refueling event has been detected via a measured change in the fuel level sender output. The virtual flex fuel sensor (V-FFS) algorithm temporarily closes the canister purge valve for a few seconds and monitors information from the closed loop fuel trim system to calculate the ethanol content. This logic executes several times until the ethanol calculation is deemed to be stable. This may take several minutes under low fuel flow conditions such as idle, or a shorter time during higher fuel flow, off-idle conditions.

 

Air-fuel ratios and the corresponding ethanol percentage are updated following each purge-off sequence. The fuel alcohol content percentage value can be read on a scan tool.

 

When an E85 compatible vehicle is built, an ECM or PCM replaced, or if the learned alcohol content has been reset with a scan tool the fuel system will need to contain ASTM gasoline with 10 percent or less ethanol content.

 

A minimum of 11 liters (3 gallons) must be put in the tank in order for the vehicle to recognize a re-fueling event. It is not necessary to turn the ignition OFF in order to have the re-fueling event recognized, however local safety regulations should be followed.

 

After the re-fueling event, the system registers the amount of fuel that was added, relative to the amount that was in the tank. Reading fuel trim and O2 sensor activity, the system determines if the fuel added was either ASTM Gasoline or ASTM E85. Based on that determination, the system adjusts to the expected alcohol mix in the fuel tank, and then the fuel trim and O2 sensor activity fine tunes the adjustments. The system must remain in closed loop in order for this adjustment to occur. Numerous short trips after switching from gasoline to E85, or E85 to gasoline, can result in driveability symptoms due to the inability of the system to adjust for fuel composition by not attaining closed loop

 

So basically run the truck empty, fill it with regualr gasoline, then drive it for an extended period of time without shutting it off.

 

Before you possibly waste a bunch of time let me hook my tech 2 to the truck and check the flex fuel calculation. If that’s your problem you’ll chase your tail and never fix a godamn thing. It’ll take 5 minutes and if that’s not it you can go right on down this diagnosing road you’re on. I’m not working today, but I’m at Dan Tobin 5 days a week.

Have you been running E85? It sounds like it needs it’s calculated ethanol percentage reset.

Well....congrats?

 

Why no compound turbo SRT4?

So after debating about selling it (again) and having all my friends and wife talk me out of it, I decided that I can’t leave it alone. I do really enjoy this car, but the last time I drove it the water pump failed. See above post with how I went overboard on cooling system upgrades.

 

So before I get it back to the dyno so I can drive it again I will be adding the following; smaller blower pulley, methanol injection, and camshaft kit. I’ll be converting it to 2 bar, and the pulley will max the Si trim so it should be north of 600 wheel. Going to lean on this all original 22 year old LS1. Granted it only has 54k miles. Anything can happen so once everything gets together and I tune it hopefully it’ll stay together. So here’s to trying to make too much horsepower in an “autocross” car LOL.

Kerry is pretty much spot on in regards to the Vette. Most are babied, it’s unlikely to find a rusty one. I’m sure they’re out there but I’m sure they’d be rough in more ways then just that.

 

Going to reiterate that a BRZ/FRS is probably a fantastic car considering what you have now and have said. I like most on CR love my V8s and wouldn’t buy a V6 or 4 cylinder Camaro or Mustang, however having driven at least the 1LE versions of the Camaro they are fantastic cars. You used to have to have the V8 for the good suspension and parts, and that’s not the case anymore. If the V8 isn’t a top priority for you then you should check them out.

Only thing on that list I wouldn't hate myself driving daily is a Mustang. They're roomier than a Camaro and more comfy. C5 in Ohio is just lol RIP spine.

 

You’ve been in some real junk C5s haven’t you? Only ragged outs one rattle, and piss poor suspension set ups crush your spine, my car does neither. Having driven more Corvettes then most people I know what I’m talking about. You need to stop bashing something you know nothing about just because you rode in some brothers uncles ragged out high mileage C5.

Low mileage C5. I paid less then that for my car with 50k on it. Most Corvettes are very clean and well maintained unlike so many other things. Obviously I’m biased but that’s my 2 cents.

 

There’s always Miatas, S2000s, and the like. Maybe there are decent deals on BRZs. These imo are all suitable Rx8 replacements.

No, I can tell you GM specifically puts them together and drives them off the assembly line. They don’t have us do anything related to engine break in before they are sold, and just want you to bring the car in for it’s first oil change at 5-7k miles.

 

It’s like when I replace pistons and rings in an engine burning oil, slam them in and ship it. That’s it, that’s all I get paid for and all they want.

 

According to GM the machining and tolerances are very good (lol) and they don’t need any special treatment. Of course they also say to not change any fluid other then your oil for the first 100k miles, and that’s about as big of a joke as going 10k miles on regular bulk oil.

It really depends on too many factors to say one way or the other. I can see it working out just fine if:

1. The vehicle is not loaded in a way to make the suspension sag excessively or bottom out while towing.

2. Is not driven in a way that over taxes the driveline, like driving in mountains, or in high heat, these things that will make the engine, transmission, or even the rear axle overheat.

3. Your brakes don’t get over taxed, similar to above this can cause brake fluid to boil or pads to fail which can lead to a loss of brakes. I have personally even seen small pop-up style campers come with electric brakes so this issue can be eliminated, it’s an added expense to set up the vehicle to use them but IMHO a good idea if you’re pushing the limits a little.

 

I think it may be very doable, but driving a vehicle at it’s limit takes a certain level of caution and requires you to pay attention to what’s going on. Temp gauges, and giving the vehicle periodic “rests” would be wise.

 

Anyway there’s my 2 cents, have a nice day.

Not all kids hate driving, and not all new things are way better. My nephew just bought a manual GTI and after a few days said he'll never buy an automatic again. My newer Silverado's 8-speed can be a clunky, confused mess.

 

Just wait until the torque converter shudder starts

 

 

Manuals are going away, most Corvettes and Camaros I see now are autos. A good auto trans (mostly) but an auto nonetheless. I’ll just enjoy driving as long as I can, the whole transportation industry is likely to change in my lifetime anyway, time will tell.

The only good way to know which side it is, is to watch the wheel speeds drop out on a scan tool. I’ve never had much luck just replacing the sensor, it all has to do with the air gap changing as these get older and rusty. I know the hub assembly is expensive but there’s a reason I don’t give people the option at the dealer.

Love the Z28. Seriously considered one, but my 4th gen and C5 are paid off so....

 

Hope you see you out, I like your taste in cars.

15 years ago I had my Camaro, so nothings changed just added to.

 

thanks for the :dumb:

Who gives a shit?

 

This.

 

I wasn’t on CR in 2004 so...

By “none of the lights up front” I assume you mean headlights, running lights, everything. Only things they have in common is maybe the switch and the grounds. Sorry not very familiar with your vehicle.

Check grounds, common ground points maybe?

I sure did.

it happened at the 2-3 shift.

load was at 74% current was .23

shift happened RPM dropped from 4,400 to 3,100, engine load dropped to 59%

current dropped to 0.08 after about 3 seconds it dropped to 0.00

 

MAF went from 23 lb/min to 16.67 and MAP went from 85kpa to 92kpa

TPS steady at 57%

trans temp was to 100F

 

I can upload both the log and tune file if that would be more help.

 

...it did that with the throttle steady? Looks like something created a vacuum leak. It’s interesting how the MAF shows less air consumption, and the MAP shows a drop in vacuum. Maintaining steady throttle shouldn’t cause a change in the MAF much at all, and 92kpa is almost no vacuum in the manifold (something I wouldn’t expected outside of WOT).

 

Not positive what exactly you have going on but I’d start by ruling out a vacuum leak. Outside of the obvious intake gaskets and such, don’t forget about everything else hooked to the intake, EVAP components that may or may not be hooked up, the brake booster, HVAC controls, ect. Then I suppose I may verify my MAP reading with a vacuum gauge. What are the MAP readings at idle? I would expect a stock camshaft to be in the 30-40kpa area, my cammed Camaro is only around 55-60kpa for reference. If it’s normal at idle maybe something happens while cruising, maybe it’s not a vacuum leak, maybe it’s all fucked up.

 

Not sure how much I can accomplish over the internet with you I don’t normally work that way. Hopefully my thoughts help you, good luck.

Sounds like you missed something in your tune or a sensor is dropping out. In other words if something like a MAF sensor or MAP sensor drops out for some reason (pinched wire, bad sensor, ect) the ECM will think there is no load, hence the trans slips because the pressure is load based. Or you have missed something in your tune and the load calculation is not accurate, or you messed up a trans table.

 

Did you log engine load?

A little adhesion promoter under the stuff mentioned above and it’ll stay put, most of GM’s plastic trim is put on with that same stuff.

If he has 50k to piss away, pay for my student loans... that covers about 1/4th of them.

 

$200k?!? You better have some super killer income with all that school. Fuck that’s ridiculous.

It seems all well and good right now, but I bet one of two things will happen, either a recession or autonomous cars. Autonomous vehicle would likely turn other cars into very expensive to insure and kill that market aside from museum pieces.