rl

Mark TDC on the cover and balancer and use an adjustable gun. It takes 10 minutes with a $5 piston stop to find TDC, and it will be very accurate.

It's a woodruff key, they do come out. The old 4v cars used to break them with aftermarket balancers and the 2 peice bottom gear. Ford is your best bet. My machine shop made one for me a long time ago.

The springs on a set of heads are good to .475 lift. The cam exhaust is .477 with 1.5 rockers. The heads are from a roller cam. The new cam is a flat tappet. Rockers will be stock 350 vortec rockers. Will the springs hold?

 

Get the springs the cam calls for.

The exhaust side is smaller, this is basically a P-trim turbine.

Just to be clear, did you measure the inducer or exducer of the compressor wheel? This is important info. Thanks

 

Inducer.

 

This is a decent turbo but it needs rebuilt. It WILL work the way it is but it's not right. The compressor wheel has left some amount of wear in the housing, we ran it for a few years without issue like this.

T4

It's Fuel.

 

Water will cool the combustion chamber better, but meth adds octane.

That is the one I have.[/Quote]

 

I have 3 in stock.

you aint missing anything. that place is like taking a trip back to the 50's in the most run down burger joint you could find.

 

 

Thats the point, its not modern. The food is great, they have breakfast food that is unlike anything you can get from a chain. It's diner food.

screw the jaw puller and rent a harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller from Autozone/Oriely/Advanced.

 

 

Those balancers are made to be pulled with a 3 jaw puller.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?store=snapon-store&item_ID=77379&group_ID=12560

No Cruise Control.

 

I'm tracking an interesting idea concerning the turbo building pressure and forcing the tb blade open, raising the RPM, raising boost, raising RPM, raising boost...

 

No, thats not going to happen or work. You could run that thing at WOT 20+ psi with no BOV and go from WOT to closed and it would spin the turbo backwards and never move the blade.

 

I have seen shitty throttle bodies have the blade flex under vacuum, bit its just enough to cause a mild surge. The TPS is interesting, however I dont know how much air the IAC could move, and the iac should be closed under higher TPS voltage to be able to feed air if it needs to (it wouldnt be wide open). Maybe a short in the IAC wire?

 

A vacuum leak would be unmetered air and odds are it would just sputter and pop and not rev.

 

Any chance something is catching the throttle cable? Not enough slack and maybe a bad motor mount causing the motor to twist in gear pulling the throttle open?

With an open converter is really hard to guess. We've had cars make 400rwhp and run 9's because of the converter on the dyno.

Power has been on and off in Delaware, but it just shut off and doesnt seem like it's coming back on. As soon as I start the generator it will I'm sure.

Jim Ganahl says 2"-3" Friday morning. Jim Ganahl never lies.

These are almost brand new. Still have the boxes, only been used a handfull of times. I want somthing different so they are for sale. For the money, they are a great speaker.

 

http://www.klipsch.com/na-en/products/rf-10-overview/

 

I want $370 from them. I can take all credit cards.

 

Thanks,

Rob

You can budget yourself. Just average your bills for a year and pay that amount all year round. I always go into winter with a $400 or so credit and come out of winter about even.

Are you lubricating anything? You don't want to put them together dry. I've never had any split or leak, thats odd.

I go almst every time. I use my 17L 9mm, but I have used a handfull of guns, including a .44 mag revolver. It's always fun. I've placed in the top 3 a few times, some of those guys are FAST.

Tom hatem automotive in Grandview/UA

The Steelers didn't win, the Ravens imploded...

 

The only reason they where even in the running is because the steelers "imploded" in the first half.

My wife has the same car and it did the same thing. I pulled them apart and painted them.

Just like this one in the link but its candy apple red.

 

http://www.motorcycle.com/specs/schwinn/scooter/2008/sport-tm/50.html

 

Never been riden since it was delivered at a dealer. I've never even started it.

 

$1200. I can take Credit cards as well.

Yes. What you need is a torque wrench that will let you measure drag torque in ft/lbs via dial or beam. You'll want to measure total drag torque before you pull the pinion nut off, replace the seal, then retorque to achive the same drag torque. I always used to pull the axles, if there is something that is creating more drag than the pinion bearing it won't work, then its a shit shoot (pull it apart and put it back together and hope for the best).

 

The correct thing to do is to replace the crush sleeve.

Sorry I missed it, thought it was going to be to cold so I worked instead.