rl

Originally posted by Scarecrow:

Hey - can you also modify speedometers for tire/gear changes?

Yep, on any of them with a VSS instead of a speedo gear. If its a speedo gear you're outa luck.

 

 

96+ we can for sure, not positive with the older ones.

 

We also do it CORRECTLY in the EEC. With an Abbot ERA or speedcal that alters the VSS signal the tranny doesnt work right.

We are offering tuning for Ford 7.3L powerstroke trucks now. The average gains are 70+rwhp and 150+ rwtq, right now the 'good' tune makes 90hp over stock and 190ft/lbs over stock on the test truck, with JUST a tune on a stock 7.3L. We have 2 stages of tunes below that as well.

 

Cost for a single program chip and dynotune (including dynotime) is $430. Cost for a 4 program chip and dynotune is $550.

 

We can also tune V10 trucks with impressive gains. Last weekend we saw 15hp and 25+ ft/lb gains, not to mention area under the curve.

 

The prices are the same for the V10 trucks.

 

The 6.0L power stroke tunes are coming soon....

 

Call us at (740) 971-4901 to set up an appointment!

 

Rob LaSota

www.lasotaracing.com

 

[ 02. February 2004, 06:20 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

The battery terminals are dirty. Remove them, clean them, and put them on again tight.

 

 

Rob

Originally posted by SSLeo:

What flashing the EEC or burning a chip may give for focus? I really don`t understand now computer system can add capacity smile.gif

Adjusting timing, getting the AFR correct, and fixing a few other things from the factory.

We can Dynotune it for you, Ford left a lot on the table with tunes in those cars, we can flash the EEC or burn a chip (even a multi-position chip). smile.gif

I make intercooler pipes, I've done them for a few people on here who can attest for my work.

 

I'll build them and powdercoat them any color you want for a lot less than you would think.

 

Email me or call me

 

rob@lasotaracing.com

(740) 971-4901

 

Rob

Originally posted by Tinman:

Yes you can, but it won't certify.

What that guy said. It wouldnt be very strong either.

Originally posted by bavarian built hot rod:

What are these ICE's you speak of?

 

Internal Combustion Engine's

Originally posted by Tinman:

M&M Head Service in Delaware (740)369-6442, ask for Mike.

Ditto. If you want it done right, he'll do it.

24's or 24's depending on the combo. For a basically stock car autolite 25's are perfect.

Originally posted by SHIEF:

Didn't know we were talking street driven daily driver, my bad.

It holds true even with a race car...

Originally posted by Renner:

As rob mentioned, 13.0 and even 12.7 are way too lean for a street driven turbo car.

 

I typically tune for 11.5 target during wot, with small transitions to 12.0 being acceptable. This is a proven safe limit on most pent roof chamber, intercooled turbo cars.

 

With changing atmospheric conditions, and with not being able to re-tune your car every day, having a target of anything past 12.0 during your initial tune is asking for a melted piston.

Well put. We generally do a 11.5 target, with a little more fuel at the torque peak. With a Honda system you have the problem of the AFR changing day to day due to air, I always tune rich with Honda's.

 

With the Ford systems we use they have adaptive learning, it calculates how much it must compensate to achieve 14.7 at idle and it uses this information and applies a correction across the entire curve. If you tune the car correctly then the adaptive will keep the AFR right where you have it targeted, so it could be a 100* day or a 20* day and it would maintain the same AFR. It is a little more complex than that and takes in a LOT more variables, but you get the idea. smile.gif Not that this has any relevance to anything in this thread. I'm very partial to MAF systems.

 

 

lean =/= mean. Dont listen to what you read on the internet message boards, go read some books on ICE's.

Originally posted by SHIEF:

13's are the edge

13's are breaking ring lands if it detonates at all. Especially if your just using a piggy-back system on a stock Honda ECU.

 

Leaner is not always meaner, you'll find power running more fuel a LOT of the time.

Originally posted by SHIEF:

I'd go with a 12.7 at WOT, that's ideal from the research I've done as far as turbocharged goes.

Tuning a street car that close to the 'edge' is not the best idea ever.

It'd be close with a normal 1.90 head, the TFS heads would probably hit. What about trading it for another cam?

 

FWIW, We just tuned a fox car with a strock shortblock, fox lake ported edlebrock heads, a edlebrock intake, a crane 2040 cam, 24# & pro-M injectors and a full exhaust and it made 300rwhp and 321ft/lbs on a mustang dyno. smile.gif

Originally posted by REPO-st Man:

Well, now there's another small problem. I went to work today and stalled twice on the way there (unexpected stalls), then on the way home just about every damn time I pushed in the clutch and came to a stop, it wanted to stall. I'd fight it by tapping the gas to keep the rpms up. Also, I noticed that I was not making peak boost throughout the rpm range. In 3rd gear when floored, my car made peak boost until about 4500 rpms, then slowly dropped to roughly 7 by the time I hit 5500. When I got home, I unhooked the negative battery cable for about 15 minutes, hooked it back up and drove the car around. The good news is the stalling problem seems to be worked out. The bad news is the boost leak is still there. Could that be just another hose, or possibly something more major?

Probably another hose.

Originally posted by REPO-st Man:

From the beginning...

 

Went to see LOTR again with some buddies tonight at Easton. On my way home, I turned left at the light heading toward 270 S when a Civic comes flyin around the corner. I give it a little bit of gas in 2nd gear, but let him in front of me onto the onramp. He guns in on the onramp, I follow suit (though in 6th gear now). Probably doing about 80-90mph in 6th at the bottom of the ramp, I downshifted to 4th quickly in order to accelerate fast enough to blow right by him instead of the gradual pull in 6th. Well, when I downshifted to 4th, the engine made a strange noise as well as the transmission. Service engine soon and battery lights came on, car would go into every gear but wouldn't accelerate (similar to breaking a driveline part). I pulled off to the left side of the median by the wall and came to a stop. I turned off the car, called my parents (who were asleep) and got the answering machine. I started the car and it did infact start, and amazing accelerated in first gear. I went through all gears up to 6 fine with the exception of a faint, but quite noticable hissing noise coming from the engine. The fact that it went through and accelerated through all gears tells me it's not a transmission, rear-end, or any other driveline problem. When I got home, I got out the Digital Camcorder and recorded a short video of my car at idle in the garage, hood up. The hissing noise is QUITE loud and obviously should not be there. I'll try to upload the video sometime tomorrow, but I'll take any ideas ASAP. The belt on the supercharger seems to be intact and still connected, but there was some air pressure pushing out of the engine compartment. I'm trying to be as specific as possible to narrow down the possibilities, so thanks for any help.

If you need help let me know. I have an Auto-tap we can hook it up to and figure out whats going on.

Originally posted by Corvette Envy:

Yes, it's the maximum lift that you can get to before the spring coils contact each other. In terms of the head design, it's directly related to the depth of the spring seats. Deeper seats allow for more lift before you hit coil bind. Depending on how much metal is in the casting, you can sometimes machine the seats deeper.

What he said.

Originally posted by TrboRex:

Sign me up for a 4 position flip chip and tune

Your good to go Brian...but you already knew that!

We'll have our 4 position flip chips and flashers within the next 2 weeks guys!!! smile.gif

 

 

Rob

(740) 971-4901

You think its making 550-600hp and its only trapping 121? With that kind of power you should be trapping 125+ and going low 10's.

 

You probably wouldnt see a gain going to a 75mm+ throttle body.

You wont go 11's very easily on motor with them unported, but they are a good head. smile.gif

 

We run unported Edlebrok 6037's.

 

For that price buy brand new TFS heads and a cam from summit and go faster...

 

Rob

Originally posted by larz:

Anyone have real performance gaines from going from a 75mm to An 80mm or even a 90mm. I'm looking for real mph numbers. I'm running 10.80's at 121mph currantly. I'm looking for more mph and of course e.t. as well!

 

I'm not looking for the flame post, i'm sure you honda can keep up! LARZ

Whats the combo? Thats going to make a big difference.

 

Going to something as big as a 90mm on a NA motor making 400rwhp is going to do nothing but kill throttle response, combo makes a big deal.

 

Do you still run NMRA OC or are you building a heads up car?

The 86 5.0 HO's used E6 heads and intakes from the factory. There is ~30rwhp in switching to stock E7 heads/intake.

Originally posted by SomethingQwik:

as far as I know the heads and everything is stock, I think its quicker than a normal 5.0 tho cause my friend has a 88 5.0 302 that is completely stock and mine seems a lot faster. I dunno...but if you can give me some suggestions lemme know. I have the cosmetic and suspension done and now its time for the motor.

You need to figure out if you have E7 heads and intake. Shoot me an email if you would like.

 

Rob@lasotaracing.com