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Tonik
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Need a new polish, Meguiars stopped selling the stuff I have been using.

What I want is a traditional old fashioned polish, that is basically a very light rubbing compound.  It is abrasive and cuts a light coat off the paint making it flat. Flat paint reflects light and that is what makes it shine. Science.

What I don't want is this new fangled snake oil they sell everywhere now that is just a BS chemical treatment that doesn't flatten the paint. That kind of crap is all I can find. It's pissing me off, I have this giant collection of crap fake polish if anyone wants some.

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3m's perfect it line has nothing on 3D we did a side by side comparision of a hood painted with D403 straight black and cleared with glasurit 923-460 and then used a  spectregun to determine actual paint color and the 3d showed true color while after the 3m the   color match added a few grams of blues, reds and white as well as the visible  micro scratches and hazing

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29 minutes ago, TwiztedRabbit said:

3m's perfect it line has nothing on 3D we did a side by side comparision of a hood painted with D403 straight black and cleared with glasurit 923-460 and then used a  spectregun to determine actual paint color and the 3d showed true color while after the 3m the   color match added a few grams of blues, reds and white as well as the visible  micro scratches and hazing

Wooo, someone that clearly knows his stuff about this! :banana:    FWIW, in my previous life I was a manf. rep for US Chemical and Plastics, Norton and SEM to name a few.

3D is what?

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3D is  not newer but  really made a hard jump into the realm of polish/ compounds and other detailing car car supplies.

http://www.3dproducts.com/

not plugging 3d as at work , we are a wholesaler for 3m , mothers, meguires , jaxwax and 3d... but as far as compounds go 3d is the best and easiest to work even our Colorsource BASF rep  swears by it.   normally 3m is a 4-6 step process sand with  heavy grit , cut/polish, sand with 2000-3000, cut/polish sand with  4000 then buff and done.. 3d is sand heavy  cut , sand with 3000 , polish and done...

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2 hours ago, TwiztedRabbit said:

3D is  not newer but  really made a hard jump into the realm of polish/ compounds and other detailing car car supplies.

http://www.3dproducts.com/

not plugging 3d as at work , we are a wholesaler for 3m , mothers, meguires , jaxwax and 3d... but as far as compounds go 3d is the best and easiest to work even our Colorsource BASF rep  swears by it.   normally 3m is a 4-6 step process sand with  heavy grit , cut/polish, sand with 2000-3000, cut/polish sand with  4000 then buff and done.. 3d is sand heavy  cut , sand with 3000 , polish and done...

Thanks man. HD+ and HD Speed look really promising.

Edited by Tonik
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Ok, since we're on the subject...what's all the clay bar crap that seems to get hyped every now and then.  My understanding was that it did a really good job of cleaning all the accumulated crap off your paint.  Is that true?  Are there better ways?  Not that I'd ever use any of this stuff on my bike, I barely wash it...

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13 hours ago, PhilD'oh! said:

Ok, since we're on the subject...what's all the clay bar crap that seems to get hyped every now and then.  My understanding was that it did a really good job of cleaning all the accumulated crap off your paint.  Is that true?  Are there better ways?  Not that I'd ever use any of this stuff on my bike, I barely wash it...

I am going to answer with what is probably the wrong answer. That will spur the experts to correct me.

A clay bar is similar to polishing, it removes stuff. However it doesn't remove paint as much as polish, if at all. So theoretically it does the job of removing stuff without removing paint/clear.

In my mind that is waisted effort. I mentioned earlier what makes paint shine is being clean AND flat. A flat surface reflects light better. So a good polish with a light abrasive cleans and flattens.

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Using a clay bar alone can make a difference in some cars. It is used to get contaminates that are stuck in the clear coat off. Things that a normal wash will not remove. If you think your car might need to be clayed do the baggie test. Take a sandwich bag and put your hand in it and run it over the paint. Does it feel rough and have little bumps in it or is it smooth? If it's bumpy a clay bar will get those things out. You can use traditional clay or a Nanoskin style clay. I have the Nanoskin brand and it is amazing and highly recommend it, main thing is if you drop it you can rinse it off and keep using it unlike traditional clay and it lasts a lot longer (I'm about 8 cars worth in and it's still going strong).  You can also use a decon step with something like CarPro IronX to help remove more before you clay to save your arms some work.

If you are going to be using any kind of buffer and you have not clayed you run the risk of those small particulates sticking to the pad and then being spun around and scratching your paint.

My current compound and polishes I use are Meguiars Ultimate compound and their Ultimate Polish. I'm planning on switching to using Griot's Garage Fast Correcting Cream for my compound and possibly their polish as well. I use an all-in-one product as well (polish and sealant) from Chemical guys called Blacklight. It's marketed as a sealant but it has small abrasives in it for very minor correction and used with a polishing pad can leave a great finish and it's a sealant so you get that added benefit as well. Once I run out of it I will be giving Optimum GPS a try.

I use compounds with a Microfiber cutting pad, polishes with a white foam pad and AIO with a white foam pad as well. I have an orange foam pad that I use sometimes with the polish and AIO but it is case to case basis.

After polishing or before applying a wax or sealant use something like CarPro Eraser or a 10-20% IPA (isopropyl alcohol) on the paint to ensure a clean surface to allow the wax/sealant to bond properly.

 

This was after I washed, clayed, Blacklight applied with a white pad then some spray wax after it had cured for about an hour.

20170601_121402.jpg

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8 hours ago, PhilD'oh! said:

Ok, forgive my ignorance again, but if you need a polish to "flatten" the paint, aren't you removing the clear coat?  That seems like a bad thing. 

You got plenty, don't worry about it. It takes off a tiny amount.

Edited by Tonik
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8 hours ago, PhilD'oh! said:

Ok, forgive my ignorance again, but if you need a polish to "flatten" the paint, aren't you removing the clear coat?  That seems like a bad thing. 

If you were to take your bike,car or whatever to a good shop for paint this is how it's done. Wet sanding (blocking) is why a good paint job shines so well. Prep is a lot of work. Painting is the easy part. Block, cut&buff at the end is what makes or brakes a paint job. Unless your using a perfectly filtered climate controlled booth you WILL have some dirt and or orange peel. Seems silly after you spend all that time with prep&Paint  to take sandpaper to it but that's how it's done

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7 hours ago, Al Z. Heimer said:

https://www.google.com/search?q=rail dust on new cars

When you buy a new car it would be a good idea to check for this. If it is a very light color you may actually see rust spots on the paint. 

When I worked a car dealership, I checked in new cars. You would be amazed how dirty they are off the truck. Especially if the truck had a hydraulic line failure. 

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On 6/23/2017 at 8:54 PM, mello dude said:

What kind of machine do you use?

I use a Harbor Freight Dual Action Orbital. I replaced the 6in backing plate with a 5in due to preference.

The IronX I linked in my previous post will make quick work of Rail dust. Can be used in cleaning wheels as well. I usually don't cause the wheel cleaner I have does a great job on brake dust (Meguiars Hot Rims)

 

This is my step process for when I use it.

1. Wash the car

2. Spray IronX on entire car and let sit for about 5-10 mins, just don't let it dry completely then rinse off

4. Wipe car down with a damp microfiber towel to completely remove anything the rinsing off didn't take off. Flip to a clean side as it gets dirty.

3. Clay the entire car 

4. Compound/polish/seal/wax/glaze

 

Claying does get rid of rail dust and you can skip the IronX step but it makes the claying part a lot easier and saves your arms.

Edited by TheBrown57
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