zeitgeist57 Posted July 15, 2014 Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 Next weekend, I'll be in Naples for a few days and plan on replacing the waterpump on my Yamaha 200hp 2-stroke outboard. It's on a boat lift at a slip in my condo. I've gotten all the parts and Yamalube from Naples Boat Mart, and my friend there at NBM printed off the factory assembly diagrams for me to reference. Has anyone ever done outboard work while the boat is on a lift (and over water)? I realize I'm not making it easy on myself, but if I can unbolt and remove the lower drive I can disassemble it on my workbench. Could I lower the boat close enough to the water for me to take out the lower drive while sitting in a dinghy? I don't want to drop a bolt or washer in the harbor, but I replaced two thermostats and a poppet valve from the powerhead while it was on the lift also so I'm not too nervous... I'm looking for someone else like me who has no shame to save $600+ in labor fees for something they can do themselves. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rl Posted July 15, 2014 Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 You are nuts if you try it over the water. What year Yamaha? Hpdi? I have a pair of 200 HPDIs on my boat and just did the pumps this winter. I know you already got parts but i would suggest the full kits from SIM yamaha, you will need all of it. Sometimes the woodruff keys can be a major pain. I found a few oil seals in mine that needed replaced as well. Pressure checking the lower unit when you are done is also a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 Rob, it's a 2000 OX66 Saltwater Series with an extended lower. I've never heard of SIM Yamaha...will check them out. I've gotten new waterpump housings, oil seals, washers, the whole bit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboRust Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 Ive done waterpumps in my evinrude 150 and 9.9 and no thanks.. helps to have 4 hands and/or a jack to support it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tindall2006 Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 I worked as a boat mechanic for 4 years. I have done countless number of lower unit jobs like yours over the water. Just don't drop any bolts.... Normally it is best to hold the lu up with one hand while you take the last bolt off, put that bolt in your pocket then use both hands to remove the l/u. If you can turn the boat around on the lift so you can stand o the sea wall while you do all this it will make life easier. Also. I think Yamaha is the brand that has a little black tube for the water pickup for the speedo? Have a pair of small needle nose plyers ready to pull it out of the lower unit and put it back in. Also, if the boat sees salt water don't forget to brush some bearing grease on all the studs/bolts. If I was local I would do it for 100 bucks... and only see you for 23 minuets! haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tindall2006 Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 O... biggest thing.. but the boat in Forward gear before taking lower unit off. Not only will you be able to turn the prop when you go to stab the lower unit back into the power head to align the spines, but you will also not have to worry about figuring out where the shifter splines should be. Don't even touch those! Also make sure the coupling for the shifter doesn't fall in the water! How deep is the water by your lift? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted July 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 Hey, Shaun...thanks a ton for the tips! FYI, I was told to put it in Neutral before removing the lower drive. It's tidal since it's in FL...I think at low tide the depth is around 3-5ft away from the seawall, with a 2-3ft tidal swing. Just called a guy that was recommended by a friend. :thumbup: I'm hoping I'll get "dockside" service scheduled before the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tindall2006 Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 Now that you say that... Neutral is good too... My first dealership we would have it in forward, I think the second one we all had starter switches to jump the solenoid. Put the lower unit up in the motor, then bump the starter switch and it will slide right in. It was much easier I think that way. in 3-5 feet of water I would buy a few extra bolts, an go at it. Worse case you drop it in the water and just have to walk around until you stub your two and pick it up..... I also think that Yamaha uses a plastic case around the water pump and you but a new aluminum insert in it. Make sure the plastic case isnt melted/warped. Are you running this boat on the flats? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tindall2006 Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 Now that you say that... Neutral is good too... My first dealership we would have it in forward, I think the second one we all had starter switches to jump the solenoid. Put the lower unit up in the motor, then bump the starter switch and it will slide right in. It was much easier I think that way. in 3-5 feet of water I would buy a few extra bolts, an go at it. Worse case you drop it in the water and just have to walk around until you stub your two and pick it up..... I also think that Yamaha uses a plastic case around the water pump and you but a new aluminum insert in it. Make sure the plastic case isnt melted/warped. Are you running this boat on the flats? FWI, for a DIY's forward is easier unless if you have a extra hand to bump the starter switch. Just make sure you pull the plug wires so the boat dosen't start... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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