cbr600f3

according to the book its. spring- 2nd, rebound 1 turn out from full and compression is 1 turn out from full. that's the standard setting from the book. they dont go into detail about rider weight other then setting up the proper shock and fork sag. ideally if both front and rear are working propely togetherr- springs, oil etc. your bike should evenly compress and rebound Setting Sag Proper sag is important because a suspension unit needs a certain amount of room within its travel to work properly. If you have too little sag, your bike will be prone to topping out the suspension as it extends to its limit. Similarly, too little sag could allow you to exper-ience the unpleasant jolt of bottoming out. Your bike's sag is broken into two categories: "static sag," the distance your bike compresses its suspension from fully extended when you climb on board; and "free sag," the distance your bike settles from full extension under its own weight. In order to measure static sag, you'll need two assistants. A metric tape measure will also make the calculations easier than an SAE one. Before you mount the bike, measure the suspension completely topped out. To measure the fork's static sag, lift on the grips until the front wheel begins to come off the ground. On traditional forks, measure from the stanchion wiper to the bottom of the triple clamp. Measure from the wiper to the top of the axle clamp on inverted forks. Mark this number "L1." Pick a spot directly above the axle and measure from the axle center. Now, have one of your assistants hold the bike from the rear while you get in position on the bike. Your other assistant should push down on the fork and let it slowly rise up until it stops. The new measure-ment will be called "L2." The front end should now be lifted and allowed to settle slowly down until it stops, forming measurement "L3." Exactly in the middle of measurements L2 and L3 is the point the fork would want to live in a frictionless system. Armed with this information, you can determine the static sag by subtracting the average measurement calculated above from L1. To write it out as an equation, it would look like this: static sag = L1 - (L2 + L3) / 2. For street riding, suspension gurus generally agree that between 30 and 35 mm (1.2-1.5 inches) is optimum sag. If you're track-bound, a stiffer 25 to 30 mm (1.0-1.2 inches) is preferred. If you have too much sag, you'll need to increase the fork's preload. Conversely, if you have too little, back off on the preload a bit. Once you have the front suspension dialed in, repeat the process with the rear suspension. The key to getting accurate measurements out back is to pick a solid point on the frame or bodywork directly above the axle. If you don't measure straight up from the axle, you may get inaccurate numbers. All you need is a screwdriver and a notebook to find your bike's best damping settings. Setting Damping Begin by setting your bike's damping adjusters to the factory specified positions (listed in your owner's manual). They probably won't stay there, but the settings should get you in the general area. Damping adjusters measure their settings in one of two ways: clicks or turns. If your bike uses clicks, turn the adjuster all the way in (clockwise) and unscrew the adjuster the correct number of clicks. For turns, do the same thing but count the turns instead of clicks. To test your fork's rebound damping, stand your bike straight up. Press firmly down on the center of the triple clamp (not the handle-bar). Don't hold the brake. The suspension should rebound back to its starting point and not beyond. If it bounces back beyond the ori-ginal position, then you need to add some rebound damping by screwing the rebound adjuster on top of the fork inward. Generally, make adjustments in single clicks or half-turns. If the fork rises back directly to its original position, press on the triple clamp and time how long it takes to rise back. You want the rebound to take about a second. Adjust the rebound damp-ing until you feel the timing is right. Follow the same procedure in the rear, pressing on the center of the seat. The shock's rebound adjuster is usually on the bottom of the shock body. Although you can test your suspension settings anywhere, the best way to get an accurate measurement of changes is to repeatedly ride the same section of road. Dial in the front and rear suspension separately. To get a feel for what direction you need to go with your compression damping, ride your test road with the compression set to the factory specs to form a base line. Next, go a couple of clicks firmer. Did the handling improve or get worse? Now try a couple clicks softer than stock. Which of the three settings do you prefer? Keep experiment-ing. Take notes. When you're satisfied with the front suspension, continue the process with the rear. If you need more adjustments, such as ride height, you may want to look toward the aftermarket. The challenge of setting up your suspension is that some symptoms can be caused by completely opposite problems. For example, if the front of your bike has a vague mushy feeling, you could be suffering from either a lack of compression damping or rebound damping. Looking for other symptoms will help you determine which setting to alter. When you're happy with how your bike's suspenders perform, try one last test to make sure that you have balanced settings. Support the bike without any stands and press firmly on the tank. The front and rear suspension should compress and rebound in unison. If either end compresses or rebounds differently from the other, try altering the settings slightly to get the chassis movement in synch.

me 2 same thing happend, now what?

i sent a sase to the same address too and i just got it back today in the mail ?

haha thats some funny stuff, thanks for the new ring tones

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gx1CkPcICaY

yeah id like to know some more info as well. not sure how he survived all those vids he has on youtube but definitely gets my thumbs up

anyone else seen this guys vids? hes definitely a good rider, not too sure how smart he is though. but anyways, is there any place that sells the full length dvd's? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BM-aHPzlY4

yepper not a porblem,shoot me a pm when you want this done. ive got all the proper tools.

dont forget to re-sync them carbs too when your all done putting them back on the bike. on a carb'd bike, re syncing the carbs alone can make it feel 100% better. my opinion is that id do is, set the pilot screw to whatever your jet kit manufacture suggests along with evertyhing else then install the carbs on the bike, make sure it runs then re sync the carbs. after the carbs are sync then adjust the pilot screws again to fine tune the engine.

lol i dont know what that is or if i want to know either lol

by golly George i think i do have it

lol you guys do whatever you want or think what you want but hey at least i'll be know as the ass that wouldn't let the tire bead discussion go down without a fight.

i didnt mean anything to you paskey, just some others that jumped to ass mode so quickly. and that all i was saying from the get go, good for show bikes etc.

what im not getting is how its going to "fuck it up" ? i dont see how its a bad thing at all. oh well im done on here with this whole discussion.

oil sitting in your engine can get water in it due to condensation over the months.BUt i dont think that would make much of a difference or would hurt anything. id say changing your oil in the fall or spring is more of a personal prefrence

and lead weights stay in one place. well what about your normal tire wear? generally the left side of the tire will wear faster with normal riders and the dreaded cupping effect happens quite often as well. all of that will also throw a tire out of balance. Not to mention harder riders wil have cupping, un even tire wear etc.. them are just some of my thoughts. im just amazed at how cranky some people get over nothing around here

im might have a bit of experience already, 14 years of motocross racing, 6 as a mechanic, certified by three major name brands and grew up around drag bikes. but im not here to argue or play games with anyone who finds it so easy to get mouthy behind a computer screen...

yeah Ive used them with great results and figured in many ways it would be much better then lead weights, but i guess after being a mechanic for the past 6 years, i dont know what im talking about.

the beads would be easier then tapeing your wieghts on your rims etc and would be nice for chrome rims too.. just thought id share what i found that worked.... oh well, ill keep my ideas to myself

youve never tried them so why say you wouldn't use them? anyways yes they are great for track use or custom applications. sure makes it easier to do it yourself at home.... anyways like them or not, doesn't bother me any

welcome. that motard looks like it would be a blast to ride

heres a great alternative to balancing your tires. ive used them for a few years now with no problems plus you dont need a balance machine and is good for track bikes, show wheels etc.. http://www.innovativebalancing.com/motorcycle.htm

i hope i get my stickers. i just sent out a sase envelope too. nice kz too by the way! before my time but love the looks and the unique sound a kz is known for

had mine out today for a bit, couldn't resist temptation once i heard the motor fire up but put her away till the salt etc is off the roads

someone should join that site or post up something to mess with him. but if used qualifiers are goin for that price, i have a used one too I'll make anyone on here a deal for 75.00 for it and I'll even wave and smile at you when you drive off. but the Vaseline will cost you an extra 5.00