Tripleskate

Being so close to HQ, Teslas are everywhere in SoCal. On my commute to work (West L.A.), I regularly pass a dozen, each way. Range anxiety doesnt really exist, because our infrastructure easily supports the idea. Also, with the big state-wide group buy on 500EV, and the Chevy Spark EV, electric cars are everywhere. Heavily debated buying the 500E because it was so cheap, but too boring to drive.

The D is a big step up from the regular P85, imo. Sounds like you drove an earlier car, the 2014(?)+ models have a revised interior. Although, it's not for everyone.

If you actually want to see a difference start with a thermostat and then change your cowl.

 

Do you have a Jb4 on your car or a catch can?

Full cowling is already removed. I run a JB4 on the street and bypass it at the track due to temps - the JB4 "turns off" at 280*F oil temps. Have a catch can as well, fortunately, the car doesn't see much blow by.

165 degree Thermostat

 

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-335i-N54_3.0L/Engine/Cooling/Thermostat/ES2804271/

 

Oil Cooler Valve

http://burgertuning.com/sport_oil_cooler_valve.html

 

Cowl Filters - Or do the M3 cowl

http://burgertuning.com/cowl_filter_covers_bmw_135_335.html

 

Then add water wetter.

Thanks for the various advice guys. I have noticed that a lot of people with domestic cars are using 165 or 180* t-stats. Is there any hard info out there on what a general "ideal" water temp is for modern aluminum engines?

My short term plan is run mostly distilled water + WW or the like in the OE radiator and take it from there. I need to pull the bumper cover off and see if there is a way to optimize the OE oil cooler as well.

Water temps are okay, thats around t-stat temp (205) my main concern is stability/volatility and efficiency. I want make sure it stays closer to the 205 side of things versus higher. Oil temps are too high, and the OE oil cooler isn't doing enough. Id rather temps be closer to 250ish under hard use. Most OTS oils cant handle repeated abuse at 280*+ oil temps.

Ran the BMS oil cooler valve, didn't help. Made the car never come up to temp on the street and didn't change peak values at the track. When I installed it, it looked to have reduced the restriction of the oil cooler opening/cavity, but the temp gauge don't lie (often), and it didn't seem to help.

As the title implies, the BMW is up for a quick cooling refresh, and I have been looking into running something beyond the normal 50/50 Anti-freeze. I live in SoCal, and it rarely touches 32*F so antifreeze isn't really necessary. I drive the car hard, with half a dozen (minimum) HPDEs and a full season of AutoX per year, so keeping the car running cooler is the chief concern.

Right now, the car maintains ~205-215*F water temp and ~270-280*F oil temp under hard use, and ideally, I would like to see both of those numbers go down a bit.

So who has used products like Engine Ice or the like, and has it been an effective purchase? Or should I plan on running mostly distilled water with some water wetter?

TIA.

I really like the SSR Type C's. But I'm a cheap ass and $580 per wheel is a new gun per corner to me.

 

I did a test look of some black chrome a couple years ago and they murdered out the car, but looked great. I would have bought them, but I need staggered for the fronts to be more narrow.

Don't bother with those SSR's, they bend if you look at them the wrong way.

Just try plastidipping the wheels, its cheap, and removable if you don't like it. I dipped the wheels on my old DD and it came out great.

Whatever it is it'll smell like corn chips, moldy gym locker room clothes and sweaty feet after a few days of ownership.

So, a Grand Marquis?

- GTi

- Either the Ford ST cars

- FRS

- Honda Accord V6 6-speed

- WRX

The list goes on, you're sort of spoiled for choice on quickish/newish cars with warranty around 30k.

wow the wheelhouse on that thing is fucked. I see the buckles in the quarters, thanks to the "magic markers" that body shops love to use. How bad is the floor? Can it pulled and straightened or are they putting a rear floor pan in it? FYI, at least out here, if you clearly see buckles in the pan right above the rail, the car likely needs a rail.

Such a bummer about the accident. Give Ford a verbal lashing for this one.

Update: Had not heard from Achbach so I dropped by to speak to Dan. He is a really nice guy and confessed he had 9 cars dropped to him on Friday, was a bit behind, and had not gotten to my CTSv yet. Since I was there he sort of "bumped it to the top". He went and looked it over with me. He has to price the parts but thought the damage was "manageable". The big things he was worried about are not damaged. Based on his quick "once over" he noted, in addition to the obvious front quarter, hood, grill, front fascia:

 

- impact missed the frame rail - fender was "peeled" cleanly away from the rail (good news)

- impact just missed the PCM (also good news)

- drivers side suspension took the heaviest hit - lower control arm looks good but will be replaced as it is aluminum and no way to verify stress fractures (apparently)

- the impact to the lower control arm bent the mounting point on the engine cradle so a new cradle is in order(that sucks)

- no impact damage to the motor or any significant components

- split the airbox - that will need replaced

- coolant and power steering fluids were drained - obvious power steering line damage - not sure where the coolant leak is - radiator or hose

- will need a new tire - broken belt

 

I am not sure what that adds up to at this point or how they are valuing it but Dan seemed hopeful it was not totalled. He did say GM will not sell a "quarter panel" replacement part - it will be the entire side of the car (front quarter, roof, rear quarter). I found that interesting - they will cut out what they need. Unfortunately it costs $1,800.00.

 

On another note, I spoke to Ryan (RC K9) this afternoon and he shared some valuable insight on dealing with the claim. I appreciate that support from members of the board. It was good talking to him.

My Thoughts:

- If it missed the rail (upper "apron" or lower "frame/rail assembly" was not specified), it might well be fixer.

- GENERALLY, if suspension components are contacted in any capacity, they are replaced f/ liability reasons.

- Some vehicles, like your Caddi dont have standalone quarter panels available to be welded in, they come in entire unisides, like what Dan is explaining. However, isn't your car a front end hit, why are they looking at the quarter panel/uniside??? I see the fender, but what other side damage did your vehicle receive? Maybe I'm blind.