Sidewinder600

PM launched.

Not exactly sure, but I'm guessing right around 400 all gassed up. Specs say 403 dry, but that's with all the lights, wiring, stock bodywork, seat, exhaust, etc., and those two mufflers were boat anchors. It's air/oil cooled so not having radiators and coolant slims things down a good bit too. Plus that means no having to worry about coolant changes!

Soooo I'm out near the west coast now but this poor little guy is still waiting for a new home back in Ohio. He's in a buddy's garage north of Delaware (the town), cold, alone, and scared. He wants you to adopt him. And then to flog the ever living ish out of him once track season kicks off.

Hate to give this one up, but I'm moving way out of town and it doesn't make sense for me to cart this across the country. It's a 2000 Ducati 750SS that was an ex-WERA racer so it's a turn-key track bike. Excellent beginner track bike since it's just one of the air cooled 2 valvers and doesn't make stupid power like a Panigale or anything. Makes it easy on tires and simpler to maintain. It's been dead reliable for me the past two years with the exception of a loose Power Commander wire. Safety wired, full track bodywork, high compression pistons (possibly big bore as well, but the previous owner wasn't sure, and I never felt the need to pop the heads off to find out), PC with custom map. It's had regular Rotella oil changes, only 2 track days on new cam belts, sprockets and chain replaced last year. Starts right up with no issues, idle set higher to cut down on engine braking. I have a clear title for it in my name, if that's important to you. You'd have to be an electrical masochist to get this thing street legal again tho. All that being said, keep in mind it's been beaten around the track for years so it's got its warts. Been down a few times, repainted a few times, and it got knocked off its stand in the garage last year so there are a few crunch marks on the right side bodywork. The lower fairing also flops around a bit since it isn't braced so there are some pavement scrape marks from high leaning turns (I'm looking at you, Mid Ohio turn 1...). Adds to the awesome factor in my book. You'll get passed by about everyone on the back straight since it tops out at 125-ish with current gearing. Let them by and learn to pass them around Madness like a man. It's still good enough for fast guys to pull 1:45s at Mid O in any case. Comes with the rear stand shown in the pics and Haynes manual. If you're real nice and/or pick it up this weekend I'll throw in a track day gift certificate for Mid O. Linky for pics and running video: https://plus.google.com/109570033305155491822/posts/3BLY4WYT57p

Change of plans - I can't make it up at all this weekend, so Saturday is now included. Free weekend at Vintage Days for two! Well, minus half of today, but as they say, don't gift your horse's mouth to somebody with free tickets. Or something.

So I got hooked up with some weekend passes for Vintage Days this year but I'm only gonna go today, so the Sunday tickets are free to whoever wants them. I'll be back home in Delaware later this afternoon for whoever would want to pick them up, or if you get ahold of me early enough I could just leave them in my mailbox or something to pick up whenever you want. First PM gets them.

Well hell, if it's a party at my house I might as well attend too. You read it wrong. Quoting the text I sent, "I can call around tomorrow (Friday) for a notary that would be open on Sunday." Your reply was "All you need is your signature notarized. I've done this enough times to know." I can post a pic of the text convo if you're interested. Most car dealerships will do the title transfer beginning to end with both of us there and that's what I was planning on doing. Bear in mind, no money had been exchanged, so checking into notarizing it myself with no buyer present was all good will toward someone I'd never met or seen before. So I did go to the BMV on Friday, who then informed me that doing just my own signature with nothing else on the back and then just handing it off to you was actually illegal. Reference this website: https://www.ohiobar.org/ForPublic/Resources/LawYouCanUse/Pages/LawYouCanUse-607.aspx But I'll clip the appropriate section: Q: All I want is for the notary public to notarize my title transfer; why won’t he do that? A: The state government appoints the notary public to ensure that documents are valid. You must sign documents such as title transfers for automobiles and affidavits in front of the notary, or you must personally tell the notary that you have signed. If a notary refuses to notarize your document, it is likely to be because you have not met this requirement. Buyers of automobiles sometimes will take an automobile title to a notary and ask the notary sign to off on the transfer, despite the seller’s absence. The notary is not permitted to do this, and should always refuse such a request. Also, the notary must refuse to notarize any document that is not complete or contains blank lines, or a document that the notary has not witnessed or acknowledged. Also, this website says this: Make certain the deal is going to be completed before executing the Assignment of Ownership. The buyer does not need to be present for the seller to complete the Assignment section; but, the seller must have the name and address of the buyer in order to complete the section and have their signature notarized. So essentially, the only legal way to go about this was I'd have to completely sign off the title to you with no cash in hand. Sorry, but just your word that you're showing up on Sunday is not enough to make me sign over ownership of my bike, regardless of whether you've "done this enough times to know." If you would have been open to going somewhere on Sunday and doing it together, everything would have been fine. Also, our "negotiated price" was again something that was just based on good will. I told you what I'd take for it and there was no confirmation afterward. Price was never mentioned again. This being internet dealing, unless someone tells me that they will specifically pay $X for Y product, I have to assume they're going to come to my house and lowball me because that's all that's ever happened in this situation. Combine this with the title transfer issue and there's a definite risk of me now being stuck with either accepting a much lower price than what I was expecting or be left standing with a voided title on a good bike. And anyway, you were supposed to come Sunday afternoon. I texted you it was off on Friday night. It's not like you were on your way down here to pick it up already. This wasn't intended to be a personal insult to you. It was me making the call that trading to a friend that I've known and trusted for a long time trumped making a deal with an internet buyer asking me to do something that's technically illegal before any cash had even changed hands. I apologize if it inconvenienced you or pissed you off. You could have been an adult about it and asked me directly for clarification, bitched me out on the phone, whatever, but my last text went unanswered and you instead decided to just spout off on the internet instead. If that still makes me the asshole, so be it. But I'd rather people make that determination themselves based on what actually happened vs. one guy being all angryface about a couple cherry-picked circumstances. TL;DR: The bike's going to a new home, some people are pissed, I feel like an idiot for typing this much, and none of this actually matters.

Yes, it is indeed gone. And BTW, if anybody wants the other side of the story just let me know. Posting anything else up would probably just start an Internet Argument™.

If you're open to the smartphone app route, Harry's Laptimer connected to a bluetooth GPS antenna works pretty well. I run it with an XGPS160 and it works great now that I have the antenna actually mounted on the bike instead of just in my pocket. The lap analysis features are pretty sweet too. It works with a bunch of other antennas that might be cheaper, just have to make sure they have a decent refresh rate.

Bump up for price down - now asking $2100.

Sorry, just sold this afternoon!

Laptop testing results: First pic is my 17" which obviously does not work. The case itself is 19" diagonally. Second pic is my bitter housewife laptop, i.e., it's old, slow, dimensions are pretty thick, and takes way too much effort to get turned on. 14" screen, case is 16.5" diagonally. This one ends up fitting pretty well.

My bad - located on the eastern edge of Delaware. Contrary to my profile information it is not, in fact, located at your mom's house. I should also mention that if you ever decide to build this thing up, JD Hord is just over in Bucyrus. He's won multiple national championships on these things and arguably knows more about tuning them than anybody else in the country. Expert work and advice is just a quick ride away. http://www.hordpower.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1&zenid=6d3bb44cd11c13a9c0ec1aee479a6368

Never actually carried a laptop in it so I'm not positive, but I can try to shoehorn my 17" in there tonight and let you know how it goes.

1990 Honda Hawk GT NT650, about 45k miles. Asking $2300. I've owned it for the past 10 years and have focused mostly on mechanical maintenance and upgrades so it runs smooth and reliably, but I replaced some cosmetics here and there to keep it looking presentable. It lived in south Texas for 15 years so the sun and heat faded some things and gave the cooling system a workout. It's got scratches and dents and is not a show bike by any means but it's been dead reliable, well maintained, and tons of fun to ride. Hate to let it go but I'm neck deep in an XR650R dual sport build and need the money to correct the sins of the previous owner. Here's a list of what's been done over the past few years: -Replaced airbox w/ Pod filters and rebuilt/rejetted carbs, and I usually put new gasket kits in the carbs once a season when I clean them out after sitting over the winter. -New Barnett clutch w/ stronger springs. -Upgraded to a Magura front master cylinder and rebuilt the front caliper, on top of regular fluid changes front and rear. -New front wheel bearings. -New steering head bearings. -Replaced rear cush drive rubbers. -Rebuilt forks with new seals and fresh oil. -Completely overhauled the cooling system: replaced radiator, water pump, radiator cap, thermostat, radiator fan switch, hoses, flushed it a few times and then filled with Engine Ice. -Only used Mobil 1 V-twin synthetic during oil changes. -Replaced chain and sprockets, and went +1 in the rear for a little more torque. -All new electrical switches, which I bought just before they stopped making them for this bike. Made sure to smear every contact I touched with dielectric grease too. -Also replaced a bunch of little stuff like radiator side covers, dash cover panel, front sprocket cover, grips, rear blinkers, and a ton of random screws and bolts that were chewed up or corroded. Tires are pretty fresh, about 80% front and rear. Starts right up, pulls strong, rides comfortably, and stops hard with the new master cylinder. Clear title in hand. Not interested in trades unless you have some XR650R parts you want to throw in.