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Last_in

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Posts posted by Last_in

  1. As said above, I am really happy my Duratrac's on my daily. They are awesome in the snow and fine in any weather. First set was 33's, now on 35's.

     

    Once these are done I might try Toyo R/T's (in 35's) just to try something different. Might have to sipe them depending on how they do in the first snow.

  2. I’ve always been a Ram guy but that new body style just isn’t doing it for me. My 12V and common rail have been great trucks. Other than the AAM driveline on the 3rd gen.

     

    I know this thread is mainly talking half tons but I think I might jump ship to the P558 SD’s since I’m assuming the 2500 will have the same exterior design. I’ll lose out on the Cummins, which I might regret, but have the best driveline on the market in a full sized pickup.

  3. I would say look at Trail Ready wheels. They are actually cast in america and you can get a lifetime warranty on them, if desired. You can get them in a true bead lock or bead "look" like the methods you originally posted. We use them on 8 x 6.5 JK builds and Ram/Super Duty guys are running them with success.

     

    I've heard of some methods splitting after some mobbing, but those stories are also in a heavier truck than your Raptor. I would go with 17's as the bigger side wall on the tire will make for a more plush ride on and off the road.

     

    My opinion, though.

  4. I had a guy who does builds on the side quote me 1,000-1,500 but would take him a month.

     

    If you're talking about Tom Filbert out in Marysville I'd go to him.

     

    He's helped out on all my old 360, 408 builds, T-56 rebuilds and what not for my Dakota's. He uses Kammer and Kammer in Dayton for machine work and has a good relationship with them, they know small block magnums.

  5. Any comments on Dodge? Seems the overwhelming majority are Chevy/Ford folks, save for the Dakota. Should I just steer clear of Dodge as a "go sit in the corner" truck?

     

    I've had two 3rd gen Dakota's and one 2nd gen Dakota. The magnum 5.2/5.9 is stout in stock forum. I have a beater 1996 Ram 1500 with the 5.2/NV3500 combo that I paid $900 for, haven't done anything to it but change the oil. I put 15K miles on it so far, has almost 190K miles on it now. I'd drive it anywhere.

     

    My Club Cab Dakota R/T was running 12.4 @ 111 on motor with the STOCK 112k mile 46RE automatic transmission. Yes, chrysler transmissions aren't the best in stock forum but with routine maintenance(Which seems most don't really do) I haven't had a problem.

     

    My current CR Cummins stock 48RE transmission survived at 4XXrwhp/829rwtq for quite awhile, but I knew I was on borrowed time. Now it is mildly built and have a lot more power than I did when it was dynoed last with the stock transmission.

     

    The Magnum V8 / NV3500 combo is fun, but a weak transmission if you start making more power. If you're leaving it stock it'll be fine.

  6. We have historical tags on my fathers Road Runner but run year dated 1968 Ohio plates. But the cars only registered to the historical tags which have never been on the car, just sitting under the font seat. It's been like that for ten years, never have been pulled. But you're right Muscle Cars seem to get a free pass, there have been times where I wondered why I didn't get pulled over in it.
  7. Aside from the High school kids at Mcdonalds and the guy I always see driving the supercharged Cadillac XLR.....I believe it!

     

    Haha, pretty sure I know what XLR you're talking about. I always see it parked at Tee Jaye's.

     

    Sad thing is, I don't think they're high school kids...

     

    There are some higher end cars tucked away, they come out every so often.

  8. It looks like a multi-mode failure. The origin is near the top of the axle shaft in the third picture. Faint lines point to the failure origin. These faint lines are indicative of fatigue mode and the smoother fracture surface on the 1/3 outer radius of the axle shaft seems to be all fatigue.

     

    The rough or pitted-looking area in the middle is caused by brittle fracture. The small spot of rust in the middle may be caused by flash rusting once it's exposed to the air/moisture. The rest didn't rust because, I suspect, gear oil covered the area almost immediately after failure.

     

    The sequence is is initiated at the origin; there was probably a surface imperfection (a nick, a gouge, or any other crack-like feature caused during a manufacturing/assembly process). This creates a stress concentration area which caused fatigue to set in. After numerous cycling of acceleration and deceleration, the crack propagated within area of the smoother surface ring. Once the area was large enough, the last failure mode was brittle fracture which happened all at once. The remaining area was simply overstressed and aggravated by the sharp crack tips surrounding it.

     

    This is a design of a semi-floating axle. In a full-floating axle, such axle shaft failure will not cause loss of control as the hub is retained by the axle housing/tube.

     

    Man, you hit it on the head. I was reading your post and I felt like I was still at work (Dana test lab). I'm assuming you're an engineer?

  9. I always find this stuff interesting.

     

    What I have isn't necessarily memorabilia but, one thing my Grandad did was have his friend record all his life stories and put them on a CD. There are two CD's in total of just him talking, crying and laughing. He made them about 4 years ago, he passed away last year.

     

    Everything from his childhood memories, Friel Coal Business, WWII stories, the fail of his sip-n-stuff business, the start of Green Vally Golf course and everything in between.

     

    So anyone with an older family member that has a lot of knowledge on family history, this might be an idea.

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