Nuts&Volts

Why did you choose that particular frame?

Since we are working with a Honda Partnership we kind of have to use a Honda frame. We like the 05-07 frame because it appears to be a bit more spacious and squared off to fit everything than the newer models. Our IOM rider is also very confident with a CBR1000RR frame and its abilities at the IOM.

We may have to get a 2012 which may make packaging a bit harder to deal with.

Yes we work with TRC a little bit. However we just meet with some Honda Partnership folks yesterday so hopefully they can hook us up with the chassis. But in the mean time we are still looking for something to model off of. We are probably going to spend the money and purchase a CBR CAD off the internet so that we can move forward.

-Kyle

We would probably be able to spend some money. We really just want to borrow a frame for a week to get the info we need. Eventually we will be purchasing/getting donated a full chassis donated.

Hey guys,

I work with an Electric Motorcycle Team at Ohio State. We are beginning design of our next machine and have commited ourselves to using a CBR1000RR frame. 06-07 frame is what we are shooting for first, but other years will work as well.

We are trying to get a hold of a CAD or 3D model of the bike/frame in order to begin initial designs. Anyone have a source or a model that they would like to donate/share with the team? Another option is borrowing a chassis that someone is not currently using and model with it for a few weeks and then return it unaltered. Any takers on this?

We are also working with Honda in Marysville on this, but right now we don't have the right contacts (as they don't have a motorsports division there). And there may be a lot of red tape and such to jump through to get the model without waiting months.

Thanks

Kyle

Technical Team Lead

Buckeye Electric Motorcycle Race Team

I've got a old white fender that I'm not going to be using. Its scratched up, but in one piece. I'd let it go for something like $25. No extra bolts sorry. I'm in the Columbus area and plan to be at Vintage Days if you want to meet up then...

What is the tooth count on that rear sprocket?

-Kyle

R6 engine/transmission is being sold tomorrow. Meeting to sell a bunch of Katana parts sunday.

Hopefully I'll go through and add some prices on the R6 stuff this weekend

didn't know if this might give you some ideas/help:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-ELECTRIC-MOTORCYCLE/

Thanks for the link! I've seen some pictures that build and I think a friend of mine meet the guy behind the project.

sign me up...

best of luck with your build...

Definitely!

At this point I plan to bring the bike to the Ohio Mile in April (27-29) and probably vintage days at Mid-Ohio this summer. And maybe some bike nights or rides here and there.

Do you have the airbox

Nope, not sure when i got rid of it thou. sorry

1989 Katana parts available

Everything is OBO

-front seat - $80 - re-upholstered and padding added

-rear seat - $50 - re-upholstered with locking mechanism -

-forks - $40 - bad seal left side

-triple, clipons and steering stem - $20

-front wheel - $40 - with rotors and axle

-rear brake - $10 - caliper, hoses, master cylinder and and lever arm

-front brake system - $20 - calipers, hose and master cylinder

-swingarm and shock - $35

-headlight - $15 - includes cracked bracket

-right front fairings - $15 - one piece but cracked

-tail fairings - $25 each

-front fender - $30

-right lower fairing - $15

Pictures here http://s194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/Katana%20parts/

Hey guys,

Looking for $800 or obo for all the R6 parts below

Things included in sale

-Engine and transmission _SOLD

-complete R6 wiring harness w/ ECU (front harness needs work, but all connectors are there)

-Yoshimura carbon pipe (scratches see pics)

-radiator and all cooling lines

-throttle w/ cables and switch block

-clutch lever and cable

-throttle bodies

-airbox (needs new filter)

-mounting hardware (the 6 or 7 bolts that hold up the engine)

-shift lever and linkage (need new bolt)

-air intake ports

-exhaust headers

The engine was running great when I removed it. It has somewhere around 28k miles on it. I actually dyno'd it about 3months ago and achieved 99.4HP at the wheel (see pic). Running a little lean due somewhat to a semi-smashed air filter. Feel free to make me offers. I would prefer pick up, but can meet if necessary. Video here of engine running, more pics too...http://s194.photobucket.com/albums/z160/buckboom00/R6%20engine%20and%20parts/

I also have a left clipon, cracked dash, subframe tray, body work and slightly dented tank available if anyone is interested.

Thanks and sorry if I'm slow to respond, busy with school at the moment.

Feel free to PM me

Kyle

I have been finding a little bit of time between classes, work and the OSU team to work on the R6 design.

Here is where I am at now. I have 3 strings of 42 cells long which makes packaging straightforward. I moved the bottom pack (which also moved all batteries) up ~1.5" to try to better centralize mass which, from some research, appears to be better than all the weight down low. This may also allow me to better fit a stock lower fairing.

The wheel clearance of 2" in the front is a little bit of a concern, but I believe I should be ok for most riding. It will just make contact if I bottom the forks out with 4.7in of travel depending on some pack design (trying to get another 0.5" of clearance). If this becomes a problem I will mod the swingarm like Ripperton'sl R1, to push the motor back 1-3" and the batteries can move back too. The lower pack will bolt into the motor mount, the original engine mounts and the top battery. The top pack will have two stack of 42 cells and will attached to the upper portion of the motor mount, the original engine mounts on the sides of the machine and maybe somewhere upfront on the frame.

Motor mount is also done, but don't have any pictures yet. I am hoping to practice some welding this weekend along with cutting the rest of the metal for the battery boxes. Working on a wiring diagram this week while I am awhile from the bike.

Hey,

I am interested in finding some fairings to mate to my R6 build (http://www.ohioriders.net/showthread.php?t=88701). I am most interested in an 03-05 R6 headlight fairing from that I can at least make custom side fairings. However I am also interested in a fairing set with minimal engine cutouts (think ducati 1198 fairings) in order to improve aero as much as possible. Used racing fairings sets would work as well and may even be the best fit. I definitely would consider ones that are slightly damaged. Full sets or just individual would be fine with me, just looking for an good deal.

A tank fairing able to support my weight would be nice too as I no longer need gasolina in this ride

Let me know if you have anything sitting around in your garage that may be perfect for my ride. PM or reply with info

-Kyle

Define "NICE"

Well I'll put it this way she doesnt know very many tricks and I think it best to keep it that way for now. Be easy on her

Someday, I'll be able to throw some serious money at her and she'll be fixed up with enough of the good stuff to really be worth your time

Lol I think his name is anthony? I'm friends with a guy named

Robby. He knows a guy that's one osu's electric build.

I figured that is who you were talking about. He rides a gsxr750, 06 or 07 I think. He's a good guy so I suppose I can let you ride mine if you promise to treat her nice.

I'm a friends one of your friends(I think that's right) so that basically makes us friends, meaning I get first ride. After you of course.

We'll have too see how much I like this "friend" haha

It looks like you've thought this through more than I initially gave you credit for. Nice job.

Regarding the COG though, I wouldn't necessarily shoot for such a bias that low, if you can avoid it.

Low COG makes a heavy bike easy to pick up if it's laying on its side, but it can make turn-in feel really weird too. Your cad drawings also look as though the battery cells will result in a serious weigh bias toward the front.

That will require some suspension tweaking up front, but could also result in a bike that's prone to stoppie rather than stop.

Rome wasn't built in a day, just things to consider. If you can spread out the battery cells, that would really help you tune handling gremlins.

Alright after some reading it appears that you are right. I need the weight more centralized. I will see what I can do to move a little weight around.

Source -http://www2.2wf.com/index.php/racers-row-menu/chicken-hawk-racing-menu/178-losing-weight-on-your-motorcycle

Edit - another post about having a lower center of gravity. It appears that it will let you turn quicker with a smaller lean angle. So centralize the weight low, I think I have kind of down that. I'll keep reading up

http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-56428.html

Yea 54mpg will mean that electrics will have to be made, OR the car companies will start saving up to just pay the fine when they don't meet the requirements. Mercedes does this for the current CARB requirements

For reference my motorcycle has got about 416mpg equivalent (or 88wh/mile) on 55mph roads (48mph average speed recorded) around Mid-Ohio. I achieved between 400 and 440mpge in city commuting.

I'm not apposed to the electric bike idea. after all if you don't at least do it you'll never know what the negatives are about it. and some good can come from it I'm sure.

but I used to use the cordless tools at work but I soon went back to the corded tools after I delt with expensive replacement batteries. it's not worth it in the long run to use cordless tools.

I can't see an electric vehicle doing any better in the long run than just using a internal combustion engine with an alt fuel other than gasoline or diesel. the batteries are going to run dead way too often. hell look how many people have dead batteries in their cars now that don't use the battery for anything other than starting it.

and they're mostly at $100 now. even 12 years ago an expensive battery was $70. now $100+ is the norm. I can't fathom a whole bank of batteries it takes to power a car isn't going to cost you the equivelent of a new car. I can see how the car companies would like this idea. everyone's going to need a new car in 4-5 years whent the $10k batteries are dead.

the one good thing i can think of with an electric car is no need for all the over complicated sensors and computer systems to run the internal combustion engine.

so working on an electric car would be as easy as using a multimeter and some wrenches.

You hit the nail on the head, battery cost is the major issue right now. However this is simply an economics of scale issue (once you start making thousands the cost drop). The early adopters just have to take the cost hit for the other benefits.

I will run through a scenario here. Some new batteries like the that in the Zero bikes I linked will lose only 20% of their capacity at ~3000 cycles. On my bike that is 300,000 miles and i can still go 50-80 miles on a charge or use it as a battery back-up system for my home for another 30 years or so. I image your ICE will become more than 20% less efficient over that mileage, if it will even last that many miles. That is also 70-100 oil changes that I wouldn't have to do. Food for thought...

Right now no electrics are a hard sell to everyone, but in 5-8 years I believe their will be a battery solution that makes an EV that sparks you're interest because of the range, performance, and cost. I guess I'm a dreamer

Haha nah no need for water. Batteries are 90-95% recyclable and solar energy is in excess everywhere. I could spend $12k for an El Moto and $2k for a solar array to charge it and I would have near zero emissions and near zero transportation costs for 10-15 years. Solar array is on my to do list once I finish school.

I mean I guess water is easily accessible, but this would negatively effect the world because fresh water is somewhat scarce. Sorry I realize you were joking, but I like to talk or rather type haha

And most definitely on the ride. I am planning to have this guy out at the Wilmington ECTA w/ another OSU electric motorcycle this April 27-29.

That Brammo is pretty cool - I would like to ride it for grins. Dunno if I would buy one though. As far as electric vehicles go, I would be more interested in a full bodied 3 wheel style to go to work in. -Go to work, come home, plug in at nite.

Whenever my R6 is up an running I would be more than happy to let people take it for a spin. The experience so much different than anything you've ever ridden, I guarantee it

http://www.brammo.com/home/

saw this and thought I'd add my $0.02.

Yea they are actually building a whole line of electrics with a 6 speed transmission. It should be very interesting to see how it performs.

Best of luck and I hope you can pull it off.

I would love one of these, http://motoczysz.com/motorcycles/e1pc_2010

Oh yes indeedy I'm planning on going out to Laguna Seca for the the Moto GP and FIM ePower series in July. Motoczysz should be there, hopefully I'll meet the man behind the machine

Best of luck to you, Kyle!

If your student license for Solid runs out, give me a shout...

Still got another year and a half of school left so won't need it anytime soon. Thanks thou and I'll keep this in mind

It looks like you've thought this through more than I initially gave you credit for. Nice job.

Regarding the COG though, I wouldn't necessarily shoot for such a bias that low, if you can avoid it.

Low COG makes a heavy bike easy to pick up if it's laying on its side, but it can make turn-in feel really weird too. Your cad drawings also look as though the battery cells will result in a serious weigh bias toward the front.

That will require some suspension tweaking up front, but could also result in a bike that's prone to stoppie rather than stop.

Rome wasn't built in a day, just things to consider. If you can spread out the battery cells, that would really help you tune handling gremlins.

Thanks for the insight. My lack of riding experience means I don't have quite the understanding of this. I have always thought that lower weight was better and never knew if there was a tipping point where this may not be true. I may try to reduce the width of the lower packs and move some batteries up higher. This becomes a little tricky because of the electrical connections I need between the cells. It may be worth it to move things, or it may be worth a try as is and cut and reweld the aluminum later...got some thinking to do.

I think the combination of low and forward wouldn't increase the the chances of a stoppie, thou. Forward and high would increase the chances of a stoppie due to the moments occuring (as rear and high increase the chances of a wheelie. I do wonder how the turn in will be effected, a lot more body would most likely be needed. This may not effect me as I don't have a preformed feel for turn in due to lack of experience.

Anyone else have any insight about effects of Center of gravity??

Small world - pretty cool. What's he up to? Tell him I said "hi" next time you talk to him.

Yep, I'll be sure to tell him. He just started up a business as a supplier of some AC Electric motors along with his day job. He's also on about revision 6 of his electric VFR haha. He has been working on upgrading it for about 3 years now.

He spends a lot of time on http://elmoto.net as do I. A lot of good builds on there.

Good luck! I have a curiosity to see this bike on the track some day, when it is ready. Could be fun?

Someday, at least at a track day. With the current motor it wouldn't be too exciting topping out at ~75mph. Once it gets >60HP or a two speed tranny it should be a blast. Notice roughly 70% of the weight is below the top of wheels

Hey N&V cool project you got going. A tip for you for some ideas/help, see if you can hook up with a guy that goes by "frodus" in motorcycle threads. He has done several conversions and worked with electric bike racing at the Isle of Mann. I have lost track of him, but he eats and sleeps electric vehicles.

Here's a start from VFRworld...

http://vfrworld.com/forums/mechanics-garage/13300-1986-vfr700f-electric-conversion.html

I know there are other updated threads, but I cant find them.

Good luck

Thanks and I'm actually good friends with mr frodus. Met him two years ago at VIR. He's a great guy.