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2thDr

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Posts posted by 2thDr

  1. 08 cbr 1000. Has under 7K miles. Oil was changed every other track day. My situation has drastically changed overnight, and I will likely not be getting back to the track this year, and the extra money could help. I will get pictures up, when the new bodywork arrives.
    MODS
    Vortex: gas cap, clipons, BRAND NEW rearsets (GP shift - reversible), spare set of rearsets (partial)
    Woodcraft: sliders, case savers (left and right) with replaceable skid plates.
    Brakes: steel braided front lines, Galfer SBK front rotors, lightened rear rotor cut with water jet, SBS pads, Castrol SRF fluid.
    Suspension: tuned by D2 cycles of KC; set for ~180lb rider, Traxxion AK20 valves in forks with 1.05 springs, OEM shock, Lee's racing cycle link
    Ignition / tuning: keyless ignition, Z bomb, Dynojet Power Commander V custom mapped by Cafe Racer, Inc. Cordona quick shifter (push or pull) connected directly to power commander, emissions delete (intake flappers, PAIR valve block-off plates, exhaust servo motor removed with circuit bypassed to keep ECU codes clear), OEM air filter, Arrow GP2 slipon exhaust.
    Misc: BRAND NEW bodywork. Safety wired

    SPARES
    rear subframe
    front fairing stay
    2 passenger seats
    passenger pegs
    tripples, top and bottom
    EBC XC front rotors
    brake and clutch levers
    15, 16, 17 front gearing; 41, 42, 43 rear gearing includes sprocket carriers
    kick stand
    rear rim with rotor, front rim
    clutch pack, steels and fibers
    OEM right clipon
    OEM gas cap and ignition switch with key
    OEM left case cover, NEW
    OEM windshield
    OEM tank shelter with some crash damage, but completely usable (black)
    OEM left bar switches in bag with misc relays
    OEM fork internals
    OEM throttle tube
    OEM front fender with some crash damage, but completely usable (red)
    Various fairing pieces that can be used.
    At least 6 sets of take offs, including 2 sets of Dunlop slicks that have less than 15 laps on them, and one set of BRAND NEW Dunlop rain.
    I also have warmers, helmets, ect if the deal requires it.

    I will help with delivery free of charge for 100 miles. After that, the deal better be good, otherwise it will be on you.
    $7200 OBO

     

  2. Sorry I'm so late to the party

    I was actually at this event on Sunday.  I ran A with Motoseries for almost the entire year last year.  My times were consistently in the 4-6's for a reference at the Beav.  As it has already been stated, I couldn't sign up for A with nesba, as I don't have an expert license.  I had asked the CR's in the morning for a bump and was not given it.  I put down a few 4's in I traffic and still nothing.  All the CR said to me was, keep doing what you are doing, and that my body position didn't look right.  :crazy:

    In the afternoon, I had a highside in turn 5, :wreck:  probably over riding a bit to try and get a bump.  Not nesba's fault at all. Maybe I wouldn't have been pushing so much if I hadn't been trying to make myself known for a bump.  IDK.  I'm not sure where i'm going with this... I don't know if I'm bashing nesba, or supporting them.  Um Ok.  Carry on. 

  3. So I got it running. I held the throttle open and let it burn off whatever might have been in the system. It stayed on after that. I seme to be collecting moisture or something in the tank somehow and I just don't get it. Fuel lines and stuff looked fine. Once I replace it with new gas (only a gallon or 2) I can get it running.

  4. I filled up at a different station. put 93 in at both places.

    My bike stays in a garage that stays around 55 degrees, unless it's warmer outside. I park at school in a garage, but the garage it open to the elements, so that would be the same at the outside. My ride take about 10 minutes of city driving, and the bike routinely get's up to around 200, then will sit in essentially the outside all day until I leave school.

  5. UPDATE:

    Got the bike painted and it's been running fine. Filled it up again on sunday when it was warm and took her for a spin. Rode all week into school and back. Yes it was cold, but I don't care. Public transportation blows.

    Anways.... Went to start it today and it was doing the same thing as before. It would start and die. Then it would only start if I had the gas open, and once it's released it would die. Is it conceivable that I have gotten "bad gas" twice? Or is something else going on here? Am I accumulating moisture in my tank somehow? Happened both times after I filled up my tank, then rode for a few days.

  6. Took Brandon's advice. I did a little tricky-do and got the fuel pump to drain out all of the fuel without removing the tank.

    Filled it up with fresh 93.

    It fired up and stayed on! Bogged a little bit, I'm assuming just because of the left over poop gas. It stayed on all the way until 150 degrees. I revved it a tad, it shot out some flames and shut off. Started right back up and was fine. revved great. sounded great. I haven't gotten a chance to ride it just yet as I have all the fairings and lights off, but I will try and get it back togethor by monday.

    Thanks again everyone for your help. I really appreciate it!!!:bikeday:

  7. Okay, it's apparent that a service manual is needed by the Dr.

    So, here's the pages dealing with ignition as well as the rectifier/charging system troubleshooting.

    GSXR600 Manual Pages for the Dr.

    :D

    I have one. ha This is just a way for me to make friends :banana: Plus this is way better for getting different ideas.

    Still think its a fuel problem! I would drain and replace. if there was water in the tank b4 and u filled it up and only has 30miles on tank that means you are pumping water along with fuel = white smoke and cyl's not firing.

    I will try it tonight. Midterms are over for me, so I can play with this bike tonight.

  8. if u want call me. 513-321-2087 anytime after 10am. Its brandon.

    I appreciate that.

    Compression within 10% of each other is good.

    Smell the plugs to make sure it is actually oil. Sounds a lot like carbon soaked fuel. Hence the ignition problem everyone is pointing to.

    But if you want to meter it:

    1. Charge the battery

    2. Pull the wires

    3. Measure between the wire connectors (Ohmmeter)

    4. I don't know the resistance for sure. Should be ~5kohms-14kohms

    So we are talking abou the ignition coils now correct?

    I'm just glad it's not rings or valves. That stuff is expensive. ha

  9. Ok. Got the adapter out. Retested all of the cylinders.

    This was on a cold start.

    From left to right while standing infront of the bike.

    164, 155, 155, 148.

    What do you think?

    I'm going to put the spark plugs and stuff back in tomorrow and see if it will run. It's it's a stator or regulator or something... how do I test that?

  10. Did you let Craig touch that bike at any time previously?

    :D

    Ha

    If 1 & 4 have dirty plugs I would guess that coil is cooked...if they share one. Are you sure its oil? Soot and gas mixed looks a lot like oil.

    I mean, I'm pretty sure. Either way, somthing is causing it to foul right? They were covered enough that it was coming off on my fingers when I touched the threads.

    engine failure don't happen with the engine off and sitting over night. lol

    you got something else going on besides the motor.

    That sounds ominous....

  11. Yeah. I just went and bought a compression tester tonight.

    Took out the plugs, all of them had a little bit of oil on the tips, but the first and last plugs (looking at them from left to right while standing in from of the bike) had more oil than the others.

    So I compression tested the first cylinder (far left while standing in front of the bike) and it read 165psi. Not bad, condering it was a cold test.

    Then as I'm unscrewing the hose, the adapter stayed in my spark plug hole, while the hose came out. So I'm kind of stuck trying to figure out how to get that out now, but either way, the compression it that one cylinder wasn't too bad. haha

  12. You can probably use one for free from a local parts store with a deposit. No need in buying one just for troubleshooting this.
    I will check into this when I go and try and find one.
    Does it have a power commander? If so' date=' remove it and see how it runs.[/quote'] No power commander. Just a slipon with the stock ecu
    What does the smoke smell like other than gas? Burning coolant has a pretty distinct aroma. How do you know one cyl isn't firing? Check the pipes for heat? If you can confirm a dead cyl, swap the plug wire from its mate, 1 to 4 or 2 to 3. If the problem follows the plug wire its a bad coil, if it doesn't I would check the injector. Aside from that you may have an issue with rings or maybe a bent valve, only a compression and leak down test will confirm that.
    The exhaust smells like unburnt fuel. It doesn't really smell sweet or anything like that. More straight burning. I can tell it's missing a cylinder because of the sound it's making. I had it happen on my old cbr, and it sounds just like that. I'm not sure what cylinder is actually causing the problem, but I'm going to pull the plugs tomorrow and try and do a compression test while I'm at it. I'm also going to check the ignition coils like the PREZ said. seems like this is all stuff that I can do at once to try and narrow stuff down.
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