tnugent1986

Fuses are good, no corrosion anywhere. I'm almost certain it's the neutral switch, but I will verify that tomorrow. Unfortunately I haven't had much time to mess with it, but I will try bypassing the neutral switch and hopefully that works. If not I will hook up a new battery and then go on from there in order from easiest to more complex solutions that everyone has provided.

I'll throw this video up of why I'm almost positive it is the neutral switch since I'm not 100% but that's a quick and easy thing to figure out. I'll know tomorrow for sure when I have all day to either work on it or actually ride if I get it fixed.

I really appreciate all of the advice guys.

4 hours ago, Bubba said:

Have you checked the contacts in the start switch at the bars?  No clue as to how Hondas work, but the start switch is s known weak spot in Suzukis.  Take it apart, clean the contacts.  You mention you've done a wire loom check, but did you also check the main ground points at the frame for corrosion?

I did not pay attention to the grounds, I just looked for any frayed, cut or burnt wires.

If it had a bad neutral switch it should work with the clutch pulled regardless, correct or no?

3 hours ago, durk said:

If you’re neutral light is flickering that could be part of the problem not a separate issue. If the bike thinks it’s in gear it won’t turn over unless you pull the clutch. You also mentioned when you had the kickstand up you had your issue. What about the kickstand switch/sensor? I know if my stand is down and the bike is in gear it won’t turn over even if the clutch is pulled. Next time it won’t turn over pull the clutch in and be sure your stand is up and see if it won’t fire. I think it might be the neutral switch/sensor. 

It won't start in gear even with the clutch pulled? Kick stand sensor was one of my very first thoughts, but that checked out just fine. Clutch in doesn't do anything regardless, which is why I didn't bother with it last night. It will start with the neutral light off though and the clutch not pulled in. That part just seems to work as it pleases. I might try removing the kick stand sensor though, just to 100% eliminate that possiblity.

3 hours ago, motocat12 said:

heat raises resistance. Try tapping the starter and solenoid with a stick to see if they break loose. Other thought is if vibrations could be doing something like foaming the battery's fluid. is it acid or gel?  you're in neutral in the first video and in gear in the next right? neuteal or clutch switch?

I never took it out of neutral or hit the clutch in the video, but that doesn't seem to effect anything. It just looks like it isn't in neutral, but it is. I do mention in the video that the neutral light does have issues when it started flickering. Sometimes it doesn't even come on at all, but will start regardless if the light is on. I'm thinking that is a separate display issue.

5 hours ago, mello dude said:

Adding to above... a very common problem with Honda''s starter solenoids is melting connectors.... 

I'll check those again, maybe I missed something when checking all of the wiring the first time.

I can't attempt to push start it where I live, it's way too flat. It will push start every single time if i pop the clutch and will not die on me. Many times even 4-10h after this issue occurs it will not start either(I've had to push start it after work a few times after thinking I had the issue solved) but after a day of rest, this whole video will repeat itself over and over again every single time like clockwork. I just don't know where else to look. I mean I could be missing something with the starter, but even after the bike goes down to "room temperature" it doesn't matter, only very long periods of time seem to make a difference in whether it will start again or not. And then back to unlimited starts for a little bit.

The ONLY thing missed in this video was that I put the kick stand up/stood the bike up(didn't hop on it), shut it off and tried to turn it back on before actually taking it for a spin and then nothing, it would not start.

 4.5 min of the bike starting every single time without a hitch. Can't be the battery or starter in my opinion. Once the next video uploads I'll submit it. It was taken less than a minute after this one.

5 hours ago, Tpoppa said:

Have you checked forums for your particular bike?

Ever had major repairs done to it before?

The only similar issues I could find had to do with cold starts and once a bike got hot it would die out. I tried the fix for this, but nothing. As far as starters go they would still crank, but not turn. I get absolutely nothing except for the head light going out and the fades dash when I hit the starter. Otherwise it fires up without an issue, not a single struggle, but then won't start again after turned off. I couldn't find anything at all about that. 

4 hours ago, motocat12 said:

push starting it really sounds like a starter or battery issue. does a jump pack help? You can clean carbon deposits off some starters. 

How to pop-start a motorcycle - RevZilla

 

https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/how-to-pop-start-a-motorcycle

1. Jan 17, 2018 - It doesn't work in all situations, nor does it fix all problems. Push-starting a motorcyclejust eliminates the need to use the starting system. Be sure, then .... Give it another shot if you're stillrolling at speed down a grade. If you're ...

The battery isn't an issue. I have killed it trying to start it though, but it charges back just fine and holds the charge. My first thought was the starter, but I'm really not thinking it is the starter, it looks to be good, but if I replace something out of a pure guess, that would probably be the first thing. I have not tried cleaning it, but if I rapidly turn the bike on and off it will work. It's not till really about the 3 minute mark of running till this issue starts. I tried to use that theory to eliminate the starter, but I'm not sure how effective that is?

2 hours ago, mello dude said:

Have you checked the charging system?  Wahts volts at idle? Volts at 5000 RPM --- Stator check, pull connector... stator side connector, AB/BC/BA resistance, AB/BC/BA  to ground, then AC volts on again AB/BC/BA - idle and 5000 rpms. See if you can do that.. Oh yeah.... Verify a good battery first under load. tested. and battery static volts?  

(I've fixed my share of Honda charging systems...) Noticing you have an '01 F4i... around then Honda was going cheap on charging components and the R/Rs were junk... 

I'll try that this weekend. This number will not be accurate, mainly because I only used a multimeter with the bike off after doing some reading. I was hitting 13.5ish, which should have been more than capable of starting the bike and that was after multiple attempt starts without letting it hit full capacity again(hence it may have read higher on a full charge) but still won't start regardless if it had a full charge or not. 

I'll try to take a video of what it is doing, it may be better than me just trying to explain it.

Ok, so I'm going to make one last attempt to figure out what is wrong with my bike before taking it to the shop to have them fix it. As of right now I pretty much have my bike completely stripped down. It will start.. once... and then needs a long period of rest(a few hours-day) before it starts again. I've eliminated the batterie, fuses, electric start, wiring harness. I just can't figure it out. It will push start every single time, but will only electronic start when it hasn't been started for a period of time, regardless if it's hot or not. When it's actually running I don't see any issues. Bike is fuel injected.

Bad starter? Bad plugs? Bad? Something else? I'm at a total loss. I really can't see it being a bad starter or a fuel issue. Could it possibly have to do with the stator? Rectifier? I'm just completely lost at this point and need a push in the right direction. It will run for hours with no issues though. Any advice would be appreciated, taking it to the shop is kind of a last resort type of deal for me, but will if I have to.

Thanks guys!

Looking for an honest, fair bike shop around Columbus to take care of all my service needs. I had a great place that I went to in Franklin when I was in Dayton, but looking for something more local.

Riders discount has always done good by me. Definitely highly recommend.

On 5/3/2019 at 2:18 PM, max power said:

@marlboro man  want a newer F4I to replace the banana? 

Believe it or not the banana seats are the newer F4Is. If I'm not mistaken  the 04-07 is banana and 00-03 is the split seat. Although, you can do a split seat conversion for the newer ones.

Haven't been on OR in a while. Kind of stopped riding for a while when I made this profile in 2015. Couldn't get in to my old account, lol, so I'm sure most people won't recognize this account. Y'all might remember me as Exarch back when I joined in 2011, for those who aren't senile yet, lol.

Anywho, I had much more important things to worry about than riding(or so I thought), none of which matter now. Moved from Dayton to Columbus since then too, so who know, maybe I'll meet some of you Columbus fuckers, maybe not.

On 4/25/2019 at 7:55 PM, snot said:

Welcome home

Still rocking the same 300? I remember when you got rid of your 250 for that thing, lol. Hope you and Helmut are doing well!

 Finally picked up a new ride yesterday 

On 4/18/2019 at 7:48 AM, TimTheAzn said:

 

On 4/18/2019 at 8:54 AM, MidgetTodd said:

 

On 4/18/2019 at 5:25 AM, 2talltim said:

 

On 4/18/2019 at 7:48 AM, TimTheAzn said:

Hey, welcome, didn't see your intro thread.

@Casper really needs to fix that shit.

Anyways, I hope you aren't here to just try and buy a bike and then disappear, it's a pretty cool community you should stick around for a while.

Look back to about 2010(Exarch) and you might find it  I'm not as big on riding anymore like I used to be. Although I do recognize every name in this thread. I made a new profile in 2015 because I forgot the password for my other account and don't have access to that email anymore.

On 4/18/2019 at 8:54 AM, MidgetTodd said:

Got a 98 Katana I’ll let you have for 4K. 

Dont try and lowball me I know what  i got and what it’s worth 

I'll give you a 4 piece nugget and a 2 liter of cherry coke for it. Only a fool would pass up that deal.

On 4/18/2019 at 5:25 AM, 2talltim said:

Also watch what you ask for. Im sure there are plenty of ragged out i4 bikes out there for sale for less than $4k. I think i understand what you want. You want the best bang for your buck but some people will play you with that vauge WTB description knowing your willing to drop a set amount.

Ya man, I know. If it ain't worth $4k it ain't worth it. Not gonna lowball someone, but not gonna pay top dollar either. I would buy anything that looks rough, I'm not in a huge rush to buy, but if the right deal comes along then I'm all for it. Just looking for a toy for the season really, I don't even ride much anymore. Although I am eyeballing this really sweet 07 cbr 1000 with low miles for about $1,000 more than I'm wanting spend, but you know, that deal may be too good to pass up on if it's as clean as it looks. Even though I do prefer 600s, but a deal is a deal which means I can get my money back easily when I'm ready for something else or decide to take some time off from riding again.

$4k tops. Must be a full injected inline 4, no exceptions. I'm short, so if it is already dropped that is a +. No garbage or anything that needs work. If it isn't ready to ride for the season I'm not interested at all. Come at me with your bottom dollar as I'm not looking to negotiate. Serious buyer here, had to sell my last bike to be able to purchase a new home and don't want to miss this riding season.

I'm pretty partial to hondas, but as long as it is a fuel injected inline 4 I'll be happy.

Text 937-732-1155 with what you have and pics. The name is Tom. If you call just leave a voicemail with what you have as I do not usually answer unknown numbers. Most likely I won't be checking back here for a while.

We just picked up the car and everything works fine. Signals/horn was due to an exposed wire causing a short. I just assume he taped it up, that's what I would have done. The brake line and bolt were replaced.

I'm glad the work was fixed without costing us any more money and in a timely manner with no hassle what so ever. Thank you erich! I would go back for future needs.

I just talked to erich(the owner of Schmidt auto care) and he is going to make things right. He is going to have the car towed and have his lead technician fix the brakes at no cost and fix the lights. He also will be letting the technician go that did the work on the car (I personally don't like seeing anyone get fired and I think that is unfortunate, but I can understand that some jobs can't be taken lightly) I would definitely go back to this shop for future needs. I felt like the owner went out of his way to make things right which doesn't happen very often in my opinion. Just because one mechanic made a mistake (who won't be working anymore even...) doesn't mean it's not a good shop. The owner obviously cares about his business and quality of work which means alot to me. He was also very sincere and apologetic and eager to make things right.

Thank you aaron. The last mechanic she went to for her old car didn't fix any problems she had (her old car kept dying for no apparent reason) and they charged her boat loads of money for 3 seperated visits for the same exact problem that never got solved. That's the kind of shop I would never reccomend. Same with another shop that made 8 seperated marks on my bike rims and refused to fix it (I understand 1, but 8?)

I beleive that when someone corrects a mistake that shows integrity and that's exactly what I look for in a place that I do continued business with and recommend to others :-) we are only human, even the most experienced people aren't always on their A game 100% of the time. I'm just really glad that nothing bad happened to her and the kids. She was really upset and emotional over it, but I calmed her down and even told her they fix it that she shouldn't turn them down for a second chance since not all places fix their mistakes as she knows from personal experience.

My gf took her car there to get some work done and they really dropped the ball pretty hard on 2 out of 3 of the jobs done. She needed a new power steering belt, they did a fine job with that. Her blinkers were out, they were supposed to fix thar, but now her hazards and horn don't work either, nor do the blinkers. She had her breaks done there too, which is where they really dropped the ball in combination with her only means of safety against other drivers (horn/hazards) because they broke the bolt on the break line and didn't replace it, so her breaks went completely out (good thing she just got off the highway before it happened) due to the break line busting.

Hopefully these guys will have the car towed at their expense and right their wrongs for no charge at all, especially since they could have killed her and her kids. I took pictures of the brakes while the shop up the street from me had the tire off. They offered me a nicely discounted price to fix the work, but really recommended that i should have them fix their work if it was me, because if they are an an honest shop they will stand by their work and make it right.

Now, all of this sounds bad, but mistakes do happen and on the plus side the mechanic that looked at the brakes was impressed with the quality of parts and that pretty much everything was brand new, but he felt like the mechanic knew he broke the bolt to the break line and didn't feel like fixing it. Idk if that's the case or if he just got ahead of himself and overlooked it.

While it's there(if they right their wrong) I will have them check out the other side to make sure it's done properly. As long as these guys right their wrong and are respectful I would give them a second chance, although I would request to visually inspect the work myself once completed just because of this incident.

I also feel like they didn't test drive the vehicle after the work was done, which would have been nice because the blinkers went out immediately after my gf received her car and they fixed it again and then when she got 5min up the road they went out again. I would just request that they charge her for a new harness since im assuming thats what it needs and only pay the difference in pricing(or just replace it for free since she could have died/been seriously hurt) if they went out just a few minutes earlier while she was on the highway.

Anywho, I just hope they make everything right and I would give them a second chance due to I felt the pricing was good and they used quality parts. If they don't make it right I would never go there.

Lou and Erich at Schmidt Auto Care / Apex Cycle are my go to guys. All my tire changes on the bikes, oil changes on my cars. I've know these two for years and send all my friends there.

Speaking of Schmidt auto group, bout to take my girlfriends car there soon. Hopefully they are equally awesome!

Anyhow, trip number 2 to apex was today due to my locking mechanism coming off my passenger seat. While i was there I had a question about my chain because I just had my rear tire replaced (not at apex unfortunately) and lou told me the tire was set too far forward and the tensioner were way loose (they weren't even finger tight) Lou hooked me up on the spot. He again far exceeded my expectations. I wouldn't hesitate to recomend apex cycle and salvage to anyone at all.

Looking for a good shop to take my gfs 4runner to. Any recommendations? Looking for someplace near dayton. There is a shop in huber heights that I've had a few people recommend, but I refuse to go there as ive been there multiple times for the same issue and it never fixed the issue. Plus they charged $75 to tow the car from walmart to their shop, which was litterly across the street(probably 200ft0. I could have just pushed it there.