Renthalkx

I would have to get it replated then though. I'm trying to avoid the expensive nikasil process. Unless you're saying to just hone it to try to take out some of the scoring. Honda used alusil on the 07 1000RRs, and, from what I've read, they don't respond to honing very well and you end up just completely taking off the coating.

Hi! It's been awhile since I last posted about my bike, but the motor is completely torn down and I have some bad news, unfortunately. One of the cylinder walls is scored ? I was looking at getting them nikasil'd, but it's just too pricey for me to justify at the moment (close to $1,000!). So I was thinking why not get custom sleeves made? Problem is apparently nobody has done this, at least from my research on the net. I don't even know if there's enough material to bore out for a sleeve and still have a supportive structure. If I'm doing this I'm gonna bore it out I'm thinking +1mm anyways so that's even less material to work with. Does anybody have any experience with something like this?

That actually made it click in my mind. Thank you very much! I was a little scared to just dive into my bike but I figured it's better to learn myself rather than pay somebody else tl do it. And if something breaks (I already screwed up my crankcase lol), I'd rather me break it than somebody else. I've learned a lot honestly just from taking it apart. I played with the transmission to see how different gears engage, I got to see how the camshafts worked and all that. It's really neat and if I decided to have a shop do this I wouldn't of learned anything.

Ahhh ok thank you. That makes much more sense. I've read that sometimes reshimming is just a temporary fix and then they're out of spec again shortly. Maybe I'm missing something about the shims. Does the head come from the factory with shims or are the valves just naturally within spec and then we reshim as they go out of spec? What happens when we can't shim anymore?

So as you guys may know, my cbr1000 is completely disassembled minus the cylinder head. This is my first time ever working on a 4stroke motor so I'm a bit confused about my valves. I understand that you need to shim them when out of spec, but what exactly does cutting the seats do? Does that replace reshimming? I guess what I want to do is since I have it torn apart, restore the head to factory specs so I don't have to worry about something going out of spec anytime soon down the road. Do I buy new seats or just get them cut? I just need somebody to explain how exactly I go about this.

Alright, thank you for the help! I really appreciate it.

Thanks for the replies everyone. I feel like an idiot about this, trust me. I just didnt think it through all the way when I grabbed the screwdriver. And yes, it's right at the top. Also when I sand it, should I sand the entire surface to even everything out or just in that area? If I did the entire area, would there still be enough clearance inside for the cover to mate completely?

It gets deeper as it goes down so I guess it'd still seal party at the very top. Anyways, to avoid this ever happening again, what's the best way remove stuck pieces like this?

I'm in the process of disassembling my motor (winter project, I know). I'm coming up on my valve clearance inspection so I figured why not. Anyways, the clutch cover would NOT come off! I beat it either a rubber mallet. I tried using wooden handles to get behind it and pry it off, but the handles just dug into the wood pretty much. I beat it some more with the mallet. The bottom comes loose enough that I could slide something in there and pry around the perimeter. I grab a decent sized flathead and gently pry at it. The bottom is coming off, but the top is still sealed. I unscrew the oil cap, reach in and pull as hard as I took. No luck. Extremely frustrated I force the flathead through and sure enough it comes apart, but now I have probably less than a millimeter under in the aluminum in two spots. If I get it resurfaced, will there still be enough clearance inside for the clutch and gears? Or will just using a little more sealant work? Also managed to do the same thing on one of the camshaft holders (think that's what they're called lol). Luckily it was just the part that gets bolted down and doesn't make contact with the cam. I literally pulled with all my strength and they wouldn't budge. The dowel pins look really crooked too on the clutch side so I think that's what may of been making it not want to budge.

Alright, thanks for the help everyone!

So we've narrowed it down to my bike running too lean. What exactly causes the fluctuations in idle tho? Upon start up it's right around 1kish and then in a few seconds jumps up to almost 2k and stays there. Is that just what happens with not enough backpressure?

I think that's the issue. When I restrict the airflow of the pipe with my hand it brings my idle back down and it quits misfiring for the most part. Im saving up for a Yoshi RS5 slipon + header so hopefully that fixes the issue. I'm probably gonna have to buy a power commander and get it dynotuned sometime eventually.

Hey everyone! New to the forum. Came over from 1000rr net. I wasn't really sure to post this as I didnt see a "General" forum or anything technical. Anyways I have a 2007 CBR1000RR with 23.5k miles on it. It has the entire flapper assembly removed and is straight piped (I thought it was cool when I first did it, but now it hurts my ears to ride it lol). It was running fine when I first straight piped it (minus some low/mid range power loss), but then I tore the bike down and, when putting it back together, bent one of the prongs in a primary injector that the harmess plugs into and lost an injector seal. I just got the new injector and seal in last night. The bike is idling very weird. It'll idle at about 1k +-100 and then jump up to almost 2k and stay there. It does this both hot and cold. I figured there was a vacuum leak caused by the seal not being on the injector, but it's still doing it after replacing the seal. Here's a video of it: There is also a very slight misfire I can hear after idling for a bit. Any thoughts?