MrMeanGreen

I know Abel, I graduated high school with him (same class, too) Send him this direction...

Our baby pictures are identical.

http://www.cr-h.net/pics/kids/skylinekids2.jpg Jordan on the left and Alex on the right. Seven and four years old, respectively That was taken today at Skyline Chili. Between us, my brother, and my dad, we can eat the place out of cheese. No kidding :grin2:

He said Firehawk, so it's a LT1 car.

Shanton, I'm in Vermont right now. I won't be landing until 10am tomorrow morning after a 6am flight outta here I should know by 11am-noon if I have them, pending no flight delays. Sorry man, that's the best I can do

I seriously think I may have a pair I used for my MAF to TB transition before going to speed density. I'll look when I get home.

They own Rolls-Royce too, Shawn.

I have several different sizes in the garage, but my flight isn't back until 10am and I won't be home until about noon at the latest. It's not that big, I have some 3.5" to 4" for sure

I like my RWD, that's why I drive two of them. STFU and go away now, AWD fags

I've always wanted to try. Count me in.

http://www.cr-h.net/pics/norwalklist.jpg http://www.cr-h.net/pics/norwalklist2.jpg 55 Sam Demeter 29 Sam 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 56 Shawn Turner 32 blkssguy 2005 Suzuki Hayabusa The easy way.

I have pictures of my car on my desktop, my personal laptop, and my work laptop. That's it.

That was their first mistake. A fuel pump usually will not cause an intermittant no-start and random misfire issue. What does the documentation say, and what dealership? They are so gonna get boned on the dropping of the gas tank procedure and the parts/labor, just to find out that's not the problem.

Contact me about becoming a CR Sponsor, thanks. Welcome, BTW

Rush. Even better? Mike Portnoy

Ignition control module. It's getting heat soaked. The Opti would show up more around high-RPM misses at first 90% of the time and work it's way down to the lower RPMs, but usually doesn't cause a no-start condition. Remove the coil bracket bolted to the block behind the intake ducting in front of the driver's side head and remove the control module, which the black rectangular thing. Clean the mounting points thoroughly, reapply a small film of dielectric grease, an see if that fixes it. MAKE SURE you have all of your grounding points down tight on the bracket as well and to the block. If this doesn't work, drop the $30 on a new module. Step two (if the module doesn't do it): Replace the coil itself. Same bracket, similar procedure. $35 for an aftermarket unit from Jegs (LT1s like Accel or Mallory). Don't use MSD. You've been warned.

Early birthday, she's trying to make you feel old sooner Happy birthday

Deal

I want the boost gauge, Chad. Can you bring it out this weekend?

Chad, what size is that boost gauge?

http://columbusracing.eventbrite.com/

I can't believe I missed this. Welcome, another of the bastard '98s checking in

No, trying to steer with the drive wheels is that much worse. At least I can correct the car's angle of approach

Because it sucks. It makes the car hit that much harder when the converter flashes and the car goes everywhere but straight. See my videos against Tilley's Cobra for examples of why I don't do that anymore.

We have 17 tickets sold. It's been extended until the end of August. At that time we'll either refund people's money, or pro-rate the total taken in for the certificate.