Jelloman4571647545499

this sounds like a fun setup. Sell without the optic?

There is a lot of information here and this post will be long so message me with questions. This comes from years of working in all three categories of Insurance, Collision Center, and Law Enforcement so I've gone through this a few times. First, if you are not at fault, and there was a police report stating, you need to go through the insurance company that started this mess. For example, if Car A hits Car B and Car B is the one that hits you, Car A is at fault. Now, police officers have terrible training, and most of the time they want to go the easy route so they will list it as Car A is at fault. Now, if both Car A and Car B were shooting a stupid TikTok and being typical hood rats and both hit you, the LEO can place blame on both parties, resulting in the crappy 50/50 agreement. Or, this is the most common, the LEO doesn't know what happen but knows you're the claimant or victim, he can place blame on both parties. Scenario #1: This is what should happen. Don't tell State Farm shit. You will talk to some mouth breather who is terrible at their job and are the first rung of the ladder. They are told to make a claim and transfer to a field or DRP/Open Shop assignment to, a local to you, collision center. Then you will do all the wonderful leg work (that won't stop by the way) and then pay your deductible when it's completed and you pick the car up from the shop. Scenario #2: You use the police report and make two phone calls. Both of the calls will be to the other parties' insurance. They will then provide an estimate, which you will provide to the other company so they can take care of the remainder. This is by far the worst choice but releases you from dealing with SF and paying your deductible. Subrogation is a long process and especially now that there are two companies taking care of the claim. Also, subrogation is nice and all but does take time. Now, insurance companies, once they are paid, will reimburse your deductible but I've seen that process take weeks up to a year. The easiest path would be to get the two insurance companies to agree with each other, which it sounds like they are both agreeing that their policyholders are at fault. Then choose one company to get the vehicle repaired through and then those two companies will split the bill AFTER you are back in your vehicle. None of that crap matters to you so they can do it on their own time. Good luck.

Honestly, those times are very few and far between. I can think of only a few times where a social worker, with their vast 20 credit hour knowledge, would be of assistance at a scene. Those very limited times involved children less than 5 years old and the County refused to send a social worker to the scene anyways due to lack of employees coming to work.

The AAR stated that the officer thought he was reaching while he was kneeling on that incident.

Looks awesome. Great job!

Tikka and CZ are top on the "bolt action" list of affordable rifles. If tossing money is fun get a Volquartsen. Savage Mark II is a great bolt gun and shoots great. CZ455 is the best shooting 22 I've ever shot and love CZ. Ungodly good is Vudoo Gun works but they are the best look a likes possible for PRS guys to get time behind a specific setup (chassis, scope, stock, etc..)

sold

ammoseek is also what I use. Ammo is available but its made of gold right now. Always is, every election.

It's intended for that purpose, so it will work fine. All the JHP rounds are designed to expand but Federal seems to be doing the best at getting their rounds to not over-penetrate. I love 147's too and prefer them to 115, 124 and 165 (for people who have stamps). Shoot a good 147 and practice with it. Buy a few boxes to learn to shoot with HST 147 if you are used to shooting something like 115 ball ammo. There is a slight difference.

Yes, it shoots fine if that's what you're asking.

base ammo (9,40,45 and 5.56): targetsports, sgammo Everything else: Gorilla, Prime, Copper creek (after you do a workup with them) These are the companies I purchase from monthly that have always been great.

Matt, the car looks amazing, awesome work.

Ha, you're a joke! I might come out of retirement to shoot if you want.

The build looks great, Alex. 22" is the optimal length for 6.5 creedmoor in the AR platform. I have multiple grains if you need some for testing. AR's are very particular when it comes to 6.5c so find a grain that it loves and buy a lot. Or contact Copper Creek and do load development and then they will give you a discount on the rest. So far I have built a 14.5 gun, a 9" 300 blackout, Ruger American MDT build, redo my suppressed 9mm AR and getting my 11-87 rebuilt. I 'm still working on my 224V build but still waiting on Craddock for the upper.

Tikka is a great choice. Out of the box one of the best factory guns that I've shot. If not, get a cheap 700 action and send it to Short Action up north. They will get you set up with an amazing rifle for a great price.

Build with a Glock mag compatible AR lower. The use SMG mags as well and they are rather expensive. So if you have a G19, G17, G34 or 33 round mag, you will be able to use what you already have. I built an AR9 with a Quarter circle 10 lower when QC first came out. Now, lower and upper sets are dirt cheap so it would be easier to build. I have a Green Mountain 10.5 barrel that shoots amazing for cheap. If you want something that is truly fun to shoot B&T SMG APC9 SD that has an integrated suppressor setup from the factor. Great shooting, nice little package for $2800.00.

Finish .224V in the next month, find builder or company to redo my 11-87 Premier, and shoot more distance.

I ask if they have change for $100....

Ive always love those. Great job, Tim.

Looks great man. I would love to see it in person.

Looks great Tim. Awesome job, as always.

texted

sold

Make sure you research, in depth, what you want for each rifle. I have build a budget AR with the cheapest parts for a friend and it ran him $650 without sights or optics. Now, I didn't go looking at the all over the internet for parts since I preferred to pick parts of value that I personally know work. Yes, you can build shit AR's for that money but please do your homework. A GOOD barrel is $175 by itself. You can get them on sale, blem sale (outside coatings messed up) and odd sizes discontinued for $150. Now, Palmetto State has budget minded Uppers for a few hundred, a lower (stripped) will cost $85-$100, lpk is $50.00-$75.00 and Stock parts roughly $150.00. That setup will get you a shooting rifle. The 224 is a little harder. The round has had some inconsistencies lately with load development problems. There are a dozen companies making uppers for them but you will want to spend the money for a Craddock if you want quality, consistency and longevity. You will want to see which ammo you can find first since I haven't seen any local, and he will need those bullet weights when building/picking your Twist for your barrel. You can go 1:6.7 to be safe which will allow you toss those 90's with ease (these are being stocked more at stores). If you are going to start hand loading then you can truly get 224 dialed in. Please don't think buying a $500.00 224 upper will make it hit that golf ball at 100 yds every time. 224 will make you work for it. If you want to PM me I can answer any questions you have. Good luck and enjoy!

Grip is a tad different on that gun then a typical glock compact frame. Bump for a good buyer/seller. Everyone needs a G19.