downingracing

Hey everyone. Matt Downing here. Spent a long time on CR and am happy to have found this place. Thanks for saving the data and inviting us to come here. I've been a Columbus person my whole life - currently living in Canal Winchester. I've been participating in SCCA club racing for ~23 years. I'm into cars and bikes and have several of each. I tend to buy and sell often as I find the next 'shiny' thing I want. Looking forward to contributing here and meeting new people.

Was worth a shot to ask for help. I'll ask elsewhere. Thanks.

It does. (And I did) I was hoping someone here had some experiences with these. Prices seem to have a decent range.

I got a Century Arms R1A1 Sporter .308 rifle in a trade and it's not something I'm into. I've had it a year or so and have never taken it out of the safe. It has a Strike Eagle 1-6x24 scope, 2 mags, and 279 rounds of ammo. Any thoughts on a value would be appreciated. Thanks!

I tried that, but my S&W 357 is a bit too heavy for her to be comfortable with. That gun is the reason I had .38 rounds because I enjoy shooting that thing with the .38.

This thread reminded me to look into what my wife would be comfortable using at home. Ended up with a Tarus .38 revolver. Heavy enough to not kick that much, but a good size for her to be comfortable with it. Found one at Vance's for $319. Ammo is still hard to get but I have a bit of .38 and bought the one box of 250 they had left on the shelf. (way overpaid, but can't pass up buying the stuff when I find it)

Scooters and mopeds should have titles just like a car. Same things you would check when buying a car apply. Check the VIN on the vehicle with the VIN on the title. Confirm seller information on the title is correctly completed (if already notarized). Or meet seller at the Title Agency to transfer ownership. I've got a 1985 Honda Elite 80 scooter that I love. Old school looks and since It's a Honda, it just works all the time. Also since it is so old, I registered it with historic tags and insure it with Hagerty for pennies a month.

All sold. Lock it up. Thanks!

HANS is sold. Suit and helmet are both still available. $200 for both or priced by the piece in the ad. Thanks!

Updated the package price to $300 for everything. I want this stuff out of my way. Going on eBay this weekend if no takers.

I use Picktown Storage. They have 2 locations in Pickerington and their prices have always been good. I have a 10x30 covered spot for my enclosed and have been a customer for ~20 years. I like not having the trailer stored at my house (as does my wife!), so the monthly fee is well worth it to have it covered year round and available to me 24x7 when I need it.

Know someone who is getting into racing and needs a 'safety starter set'? I have the following items available. Located in Canal Winchester. Available as a package ($350 for everything) or by the piece (prices listed): G-Force single layer SFI 3-2a/1 drivers suit. New. Size XLG. $100 RaceQuip Pro15-FRP helmet. Used - see pics for condition. Size XXL. Wired for radios (no ear pieces included). (HANS mounts not included unless you purchase both the helmet and the HANS.) $125 HANS Sport II H&N device. Used - see pics for condition. Size 20L with Quick Click Anchor Tethers. SFI date stamp is July 2013. $250

Yea - that gets tough. Did you have specialty insurance on the car? If so, use your company to get paid the value for the car/parts and let them deal with it. If not, you may have trouble getting value for the parts you upgraded. I've run into that in the past and had to basically put the car back to stock for them to 'take' and then I kept all my parts. I've also just bought the car back as a total for the salvage cost then stripped off all my go-fast parts to sell/reuse and scrap the rest. Good luck - sorry you are having to deal with this. Never easy and usually just sucks during the entire process.

Sounds like you should talk to the adjuster after you make the list of things you will be removing. If the item doesn't add value, then you would not lose anything removing it. So the head unit doesn't add any value then taking it out doesn't remove any value. If something adds $50 in value but costs $500, then remove it and take the $50 hit to the overall value. Another option is to talk to your insurance and work with them on value/parts. They may be willing to pay you for anything you've added to be covered (like aftermarket parts you added to your policy) and then get their money back from the other insurance company. If none of that fits for you, the lawyer option may help. I do not know if they really get into the vehicle value discussion much (didn't back the last time I had an accident but that was many years ago). Hope you get this resolved to your satisfaction!

Awesome - Thanks everyone! I'll give Josh a call and see what I can work out!