rb26deet32

$200 for a spare computer I recently built. I have the original case, cpu, and motherboard box. I can get you pictures if you want.

 

Intel i3 6100 3.7ghz

Gigabit GA-B150M-DS3H motherboard

8GB RAM

500 GB Hard drive

DVD-RW Drive

Corsair Case

Legit Windows 10 CD key included.

Still available? I need a spare computer at the shop and this thing is damn near the exact build I did for my main computer.

Thanks!

I have a buddy with an e36 M3. He was turning it into a 5.0 swap track car. It has a lot of suspension upgrades and full roll cage done, but no interior otherwise and no engine/trans.

I've been wanting to do one of those for years. How is the body and any idea what he's asking?

The 98 mustang im probably getting either way since I'm paying less than scrap cost. But I've always wanted to bull an e36.

Thanks for all the posts!

What about a first gen crv?

A few years ago maybe. But for now I'm just looking for something to build to be fast, not ironically fast lol. Thanks though.

QUOTE=OJdidit1738;1917443]I have an 88 LX Convertible Body, It is pretty much just a shell at this point. Strut tower on drivers side has some rust, front of floors has some rust. Torque boxes are great. No front suspension, or rear, or interior. I was going to do what you have planned but have gone a different route. If your interested in a convertible let me know.

I'll have to pass on that one. I've never liked convertibles and I might have already locked in a car if I go with a mustang. A 98 gt. But we'll see.

Ill cut you a deal on my Supra.

What year, original na or tt, what rear end and auto or manual from the factory? Thanks!

I might be willing to sell my 91' notch roller. Drivetrain is still in it...but I could have it out pretty quick

 

Here's some details..PM your number and I'll send pics if you want

 

Interior-

Brand New Corbeau Race Seats

RCI Harnesses

Rear Seat Delete

Autometer Ultralite Guage Cluster / MPH, RPM, Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure.

Autometer Ultralite Wide band

Autometer Ultralite Boost Guage

Mostly black. Some pieces have been painted, others are original.

 

FUEL SYSTEM

14 gallon alluminum fuel cell

Aeromotive A-1000 pump

#10 Feed / #8 Return

 

Suspension

UPR Tubular K Member with A-Arms

Front & Rear Coil Overs

UPR caster camber plates

Baseline Suspension Anti Roll Bar

Welded Axle Tubes

Rear Upper Adjustable Control Arms

Rear Lower Fixed Control Arms

Subframe Connectors

Battle Boxes

8 Point roll cage. Shouldn't have any issues passing 8.50 certs.

 

Rear End-

8.8 with Auburn Pro Diff, C Clip Elims, Moser 31 Spline Axles, Welded tubes.

 

Wheels / Tires

 

FR500s

Newer tires up front

Nitto Drag Radials out back

That sounds like a great roller but is way out of my price range. I'm looking for something to throw together quickly on a budget and then add to it over the winter. On that all I'd really have is engine choice.

Thanks!

Maybe I'm calling them the wrong thing. What you have is probably fine for what you're doing. If we don't CMM, we use these at work for all ID measurements. Again, we're dealing with the 0.001mm and you're probably only concerned with .010mm at most I would guess.

I'm not too sure. As of what I've been doing I can accurately say to the 0.001" what my oil clearances are. But I'm trying to get to the 0.0001-0.0005". In reality it probably doesn't make a whole lot of difference. I just hate not having the ten thousandths lines on my mic.

Side note, I just picked up a 3/8 techangle. So I can finally get rid of my click style torque wrench and angle adapter.

Read through this. This is Mitutoyo's info and brands like Starrett etc might vary, but this will give you a good idea of the capabilities of various tools.

I just did a quick search for inside mics and found tons of them. I'm wondering if we are talking about the same thing or not. I use this right now for inside diameter

https://www.amazon.com/Fowler-Warranty-52-646-400-Measuring-Graduation/dp/B000XQ2T1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488847213&sr=8-1&keywords=fowler+dial+bore+gauge

when I searched for ID Mics I found dial bore gauges and actual ID Mics like this

https://www.zoro.com/starrett-inside-groove-micrometer-05-to-15-in-701a/i/G4780413/?gclid=CjwKEAiArvTFBRCLq5-7-MSJ0jMSJABHBvp0J1ucI1gceanR5mDBaUXMhXTLQE_bb1IbtEkhi-Fi5xoCcujw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I just want to make sure we are on the same page because I don't want to make a mistake and buy something that might be considered inaccurate even if it's worked so far.

Thanks!

Journal Bearing Clearances, Con Rod ID/Out of round, Piston to wall clearance, cylinder out of round/concentricity, wrist pin clearances etc. Snap gauges can have some repeatability and accuracy issues based on technique, your micrometers you're measuring with, etc. Even then they're still slightly less accurate than your micrometers that you're using to measure the gauge with. Typically the best practice is to measure the actual part with the actual tool. I'm not sure what level of accuracy/precision you're trying to obtain, but my experience at work is all down to the 0.001mm/0.0254in. FWIW, if you can pick up a nice set of ID mics, they are much easier to use and produce a more repeatable measurement.

Oh I see what you mean. I wasn't sure if you were meaning ID for actual machining or not. I've been using my current mic setup to zero out my dial bore gauge. It's not the most accurate way to do it but it's been working so far. I guess the next logical step would be to get an ID mic. My only question is how much of a difference would you say there is? I've never used one so I honestly don't know.

The way I do it I'm down to the 0.0005-0.001" but it does depend on tool calibration and is also figured out by measuring with a couple different tools and doing some basic math versus doing what you say and measuring with one tool that is actually designed to measure a certain component.

The other issue would be measuring journal diameter on certain blocks with everything torque down. I don't see how an ID mic would fit. I'll have to look into it for sure because I'm trying to go to the next level with my engine building and not have any doubts about anything.

Thanks for the feedback!

I will ask my dad, he's a tool and die maker, but doesnt need a lot ofh is tools anymore due to the work he's doing at his new plant.

Great, thanks!

I would also add a good set of ID mics in there too if you're getting really serious about it. Snap gauges and micrometers are only so accurate. Also remember that your measurement tools are only as good as the calibrations done on them.

I couldn't agree more about the calibration but what would be the purpose of the ID mics? I'm only doing engine building. I wouldn't be doing the actual machining. I just want to be able to more accurately blue print and build blocks. Lmk what you mean though, I'm always up to learn new things!

Thanks,

Brent

Hello, I'm looking to upgrade my engine building tools. I'm looking for the following.

-Digital 3/8 techangle or mac 5-100 ftlbs

-Dial bore gauge 0.0001

-1-4" micrometer 0.0001"

-Dial indicator (0.0001-0.0005)

Everything I have been using is working but I hate only being accurate to the 1,000th of an inch. On some builds lately it's been stressing me out with the amount of money that has been going into them.

If you have all or anything listed and are looking to sell just hit me up. (614) 625-7296.

Thanks,

Brent

Hey, I'm looking to do a build for this summer. I have a k24 and a 6.0 to build for this summer so whatever I find first is what I'll build first.

If you have a Honda or anything you can easily ls swap lmk. Here are a few examples.

-eg/ek civic

-dc integra

-fox body

-sn95

-f body

-rx7

I'm wanting a clean roller, no rust unless you're willing to sell for stupid cheap. Going to cage and tub if I go lsx. For the Honda I'm tube framing the front end so I only really care about the back quarters.

Thanks!

Ill Trade for Cash.....Sorry man.

$600.

Ok, np. Is the pedal a real variable pedal or more like an on, off, 50% pedal? And have you used it much? I'm trying to figure out if it's something that would be able to weld for a few hours at a time.

Thanks!

That's kinda messed up. $800 on CL but $1k here.

I changed it and even changed the link but forgot to change it in the post lol. It's changed now

Grab it up....Its a good welder, I just bought a new one with a few more options....but obviously at a higher cost as well. I dont need two sitting around here for sure.

Would you trade it for a car?

I need a smaller tig and this would be perfect.

I have an old beater '92 integra.

If no, what's your bottom dollar price?

Thanks!

Hello, I'm finally getting rid of one of my beaters. I've had it for probably 7 or 8 years now and don't have the space or need for it any more. $700 obo CR Price. It runs and drives, has a/c and heat, bmw bottle cap wheels, newer cat back exhaust system, timing belt/water pump done at 182,000 miles. Currently at 202k but will continue to go up by 50 miles per day.

I know what I can sell the b18 for and I know the scrap cost so if you're interested make an offer. Thanks!

https://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/6013203084.html

Also, while this thread is up. If anyone is interested in working full time or part time or knows someone that is give me a call at (614)625-7296.

I'm looking for anyone from lube tech all the way up to master technicians, part time or full time. I'll give anyone a chance.

Thanks again!

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I added the majority of them to the list. I'll go over them on Monday with the guys.

Thanks again!

Wow, I didn't expect to get this many responses so quickly. I just posted to get it out there. Now for some more details while I have some time.

I've been in business for almost 5 years in Dublin just past Perimeter on 33 West. I started out wanting to be a performance shop though it's a difficult niche to just jump into, especially when it was only me at first. So I had to do mostly general repairs along with performance builds when they came up like most small shops do.

We work on American, European and Asian vehicles. If I had to pick a specialty it would be engine and transmission builds. We have a great deal with a Local machine shop less than 2 miles from the new shop and we blue print and assemble every engine in house along with every transmission. Besides that we do the general repairs including engine/transmission swaps, head gasket replacement and general maintenance. A sub specialty that we do would be 2jz swaps/builds, head/cam/valve train, custom exhaust, lsx swaps/builds, and Honda's built for going in a straight line and pretty much anything that is required to make anything fast.

The new shop is at 3380 East Main st in Columbus Ohio. I like the original name and honestly never planned on getting big enough to need over 10,000sqft of space but I guess I was wrong.

I've been in Dublin for a while but a large majority of my customers come from the East side or within 5 miles of the shop. That is the main reason for moving. Most performance builds I get stumble upon a post I've made on a forum or see a car we've built and call in.

I'm looking for a name that just works. I've spent hours and hours trying to figure out something but I still just haven't been able to think of anything remotely decent. But Kanye and Kim's baby does have a nice ring to it

If you have any more questions please post. I'll post back asap.

Thanks again!

Brent

Hey, I've been in business for almost 4 1/2 years. I'm moving from NW Dublin area to the East side of Columbus. I'm wanting to do a name change to start fresh in a new area. I'm having issues coming up with a new name and since so many of my customers already know me as Northwest I just continue to go by that but logically it doesn't make sense for new customers.

If anyone can think of a good name that we decide to use I will send you a $25 visa gift card. If you can also create a logo as well then I'll pay $100.

Anything is appreciated whether we use it or not. I've already posted this on several other forums as well as on my facebook page @ http://www.facebook.com/nwautomotiveperformance

Thanks!

Brent

Fwiw we use nobles

I'll give them a call in the morning.

Thanks!

This probably won't be much help but first what it's worth personally I always end up using Capital Towing. At work we use Pro-Tow their 3rd shift rate is 125 + 3/mi which feels high to me...

 

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Yea, that's incredibly high. The highest I pay is $55 a hook, 10 miles free and then $2-3/mile after that.