resurection

decided to keep the car and sell the motor and tranny. Combe has never seen the strip, break in time and maybe 20 street miles. Might consider trading some of the parts for a 302 5-speed combo. shipping is not included in the prices! Shortblock: 84' Block .040, Cat 4.100 stroke internally balanced forged crank, Probe RPM Series forged H-beams with ARP 2000 bolts, SRP forged pistons (either 14.5 0r 19.5cc dish), Steel main girdle. $2700 Brodix Track 1 225 heads. No work, straight out of the box. Solid roller springs good to .700 lift, titamium retainers, 2.10 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves, guide plates and 7/16 studs. $1800 Comp Cams Solid Roller: .649 intake lift, .641 exhaust lift. 276 int. duration and 280 ex. duration. Have cam card. $200 Comp Cams Solid roller lifters: $200 Crower Steel Bodied Roller Rockers: 1.7 ratio with 7/16 poly locks (the long style for a rocker stud girdle) $200 Motorsport Victor Jr intake: Fits 9.5 deck, runners have been ported to a 1262 gasket but plenum is untouched, Clear coated. $150 Race Demon 950 Carb. $500 March Aluminum Polished Pullies: Have crand and water pump only. $50 MSD Billet Dist. for a 9.5 deck and is 3/4" taller to clear the victor jr. intake. Has bronze dist. gear and motorsport oil pump shaft. $225 Accufab 1 3/4" LT with 3" collector for a 9.5 deck and fits Brodix Track 1 heads. Wide bolt pattern. Dr. Gas-x x-pipe and dynomax round mufflers. Headers clear QA1 k-member, Accufab told me they would clear a stock k-member. $600 Canton 7qt Oil pan. Baffles on the side have been removed and front had been dinged to clear the steel main girdle. $150 Motorsport balancer Neutral balance, but any weight can be added to it. A little surface rust. $100 Transking built C4: Rated to 800hp. Case filled, rollerized, Transbrake, reverse manual valve body, SFI aluminum bellhousing, Scattershield, deep pan, 4000 stall converter, B&M trans cooler with 6AN lines, and tow SFI flexplates, one is neutral balance and the other is 28oz. $1500 Cheetah pro action shifter. Reverse pattern for a C4. Comes with new cable and mounting bracket. $150 Or save a few hundred and buy everything for $8000 Pm me or call Ryan 713-854-1955, Currently live in SE Ohio, but moving soon to Pittsburgh. Prices do not include shipping.

4. If you want to use CR as a venue to sell your item(s), please take the time to post a full description and asking price. Do not just post a direct link to Ebay or Craigslist. If you do have an Ebay, Craigslist, autotrader, or simular site, you can add it to your post if you would like.

. 4. If you want to use CR as a venue to sell your item(s), please take the time to post a full description and asking price. Do not just post a direct link to Ebay or Craigslist. If you do have an Ebay, Craigslist, autotrader, or simular site, you can add it to your post if you would like.

Fel-Pro 1415 FTW!

Thanks guys! I appreciate it!

Thanks! What about the stock pressure switch on the distribution block?

I've got an 84' GT. I'm doing a manual brake conversion on it. I purchased the skinny kid manual brake kit, that utilizes a strange master cylinder. I didn't get the complete kit, because I already had a line lock installed on the car already. I ran into a problem when redoing the brake hardlines. When I removed the brass fitting on my line lock, it got stripped out. In order to get the fitting off the line lock, I had to use an easy out to remove it. After I got everything back together, I started to bleed the brakes. The current line lock was a Hurst unit, but an old design. Its round and it only had two ports on it, one line in and one line out. The line lock didn't like when I used the drill and easy out to remove the fitting. The assembly spun around and now fluid leaks everywhere from it. Now I ordered a new Hurst line lock. It has four ports on it; an entry port, one port for each front caliper, and one port for a pressure switch. For the conversion, I had to remove the brake pedal and drill a hole for the master cylinder linkage one inch above the stock location. When I did this, I am unable to hook up the stock micro switch for tail lights. Here is my question. The guy at Skinny Kid says to omit the stock brake distribution block. Not a problem. I order all of the fittings I need for the new line lock and the pressure switch. Do I wire up the pressure switch to the micro switch for the pedal assembly or do I wire it up to the stock distribution block? I'm not really how the pressure switch works. Does it pick up pressure in the line and activates the rear tail lights? There appears to be one on the distribution block right now. What is its purpose when there is a micro switch on the brake pedal and a pressure switch from the factory? Wouldn't you need only one switch and not both? I occassionally drive the car on the street, and tail lights are important to me.

For only 581hp that car pulls on the big end. What stall are you running?

I worked at a body shop under the table for a little while. We always used Omni paint. They are made by PPG and sometimes it is the exact same paint as PPG, but discounted because of the label. I would check out a supplier and use them.

Try a compression check. Could be a blown head gasket.

I might be driving to texas this summer to see my family. i have a Dodge 1500, that can tow your car. Where in Texas are you heading?

sounds like your shift forks are bent.

I was thinking about that movie a month or so ago and couldn't remember the name as well.

I think corvette owners get tired with their cars and see how ugly they can make them!

make sure you remove the spout when you are setting the timing.