Ry_Trapp01647545522

Nice, looks like your first buddy can handle this kind of work no problem. Do you know if he's glued in subframe connectors before? Those are my only real concern, but I'm probably just being paranoid(this chassis is straight and CLEAN underneath - don't want to screw it up lol). Might get ahold of him pretty soon.

Thanks guys, I'll see what Tinman has to say - definitely still open to suggestions. I guess we probably should've gotten this work in sooner than right before racing season lol

I'm helping my nephew build a 1980 Notch, and we're to the point that we need to get some welding work done - subframe connectors, axle tubes, axle brace, anti-roll bar(probably a Team Z piece), and external torque box reinforcements(interior plates already melted in). So I need some shop suggestions - the car lives in Johnstown and Newark, but it doesn't have to be local, I just want to get this done right the first time. Thanks guys!

I'm there! ...if my nephew and I can get this pile, AKA unc-neph project car, back together in time that is LOL

alright, so i'm using this stuff to prep the front and rear bumpers on my ford explorer for paint(AGAIN), it's a typical "rust converter" meaning it doesn't 'eat' the rust but rather turns the rust(iron oxide) into iron phosphate. after converting to iron phosphate, you're good to go, you can't paint right over it. but my problem is that they suggest using oil-based paints, as some epoxy and latex paints won't adhere. i'm looking to use some good ol' fashioned vatozone special primer-in-a-can though, such as rustoleum filler-primer(it's a rusted up '96 explorer - i'm not going for show quality here...). i've scoured the web for examples of what paints/primers/coatings that people have laid down over this stuff, but i can't find ANYTHING. so, long story short, has anyone used a phosphoric acid and had success laying down a duplicolor/rustoleum rattle can paint or primer over it?

i see a lot of "we need to be proactive" in here, but what happens if this turns out to be a massive tax leach that no one uses like amtrak? you can't just cancel it, there is no return for all the tax money put in, no, it'll just keep running, getting band-aids applied to it, and sucking up tax payer money year after year after year. the "if you build it, they will come" philosophy is short sighted and a great way to lose piles of cash by not truly understanding the market. i'm not saying this would crash and burn, but the possibility is very real and can't be discounted. this certainly isn't a black & white topic, there needs to be a LOT of research put into this to actually determine realistic feasibility. and, doing something that will increase taxes all in the name of "the greater good" is pure bullshit and does nothing but hurt those that have to pay.

cleetus, because i really don't care much about the rest of those. as a ford fanboy, the GT350 is cool, but it definitely won't be $70k, and i'd rather wait for them to pull the sheet off the GT350R that will be $70k. carbon fiber wheels, carbon-ceramics, less weight, and some other goods that we don't for sure know about yet(oh yea, and sport cups vs the super sports).

bill burr is definitely my favorite comedian, every single one of his specials delivers beginning to end!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlvvCYUDHrQ oh, fucking please, the bitch got every bit of what she was subconsciously asking for. straight SJW shit here.

i've never completely shaved, but these past few weeks are the first time that i've just let it go(trimming the sounds down some, fucking poofy ass hair). have never gotten so many compliments from chicks! shampoo and conditioner(american crew on both accounts) aren't cutting it though, any suggestions on [affordable] product to soften it up, make this shit less wiry?

pretty much. they throw around "next generation" and "innovative" while saying "yea, they're basically just like all the other low displacement turbocharged DI engines on the market..."

it seems like off-roading/diesel magazines usually have the best coupons for the torque wrenches, and a lot of coupons that the e-mail newsletter doesn't have.

yea, the HF torque wrenches are definitely surprisingly good pieces. i used the 3/8"($9 after coupon - SUCK IT, SNAP-ON!!!) when i rebuilt the top end of my motorcycle and it worked flawlessly.

finally, another update! my brother came over from indiana last weekend and we tore down the top end of the engine to replace a problematic head gasket and throw some other new seals and gaskets in there. i got a couple pics of the tear down/reassembly of the top end, i was a bit preoccupied with working on the junk(LOL) so this isn't a legit step-by-step photo flood like most build threads, more of a sporadic "look at this, look at that!"... http://upurs.us/image/51626.jpeg ...got the head off and i remembered to start taking pics, lol http://upurs.us/image/51627.jpeg ...yea - it's got a hemi! http://upurs.us/image/51628.jpeg ...no cam bearings??? crazy ass japanese! (unless this is common in the motorcycle world...) http://upurs.us/image/51630.jpeg ...the cam is back in! tough to see in the lighting(visible in the first pic though), but the cam sprocket has very specific cutouts in its center, and when removing or installing the cam you gotta keep rotating it and lining up the cam lobes with the cutouts to snake it in there - real pain in the ass! http://upurs.us/image/51629.jpeg ...oh, nothing like a little minor surgery to some high precision carburetor parts, with the dynojet-supplied drill bit i did final reassembly today - reinstalling the carbs, hooking up all the lines, installing new plug wires, reinstalling the exhaust(PAIN IN THE ASS), tank, battery box, etc. it took a little playing with, but i got it fired up too. good news is that we didn't fuck up the cam timing LOL, and it doesn't seem to be running too bad though i didn't warm it up and really mess with it yet. got a new problem though... http://upurs.us/image/51631.jpeg ...the rag between the tank and carbs? yea, the fuckin petcock is leaking like a sieve! time to rebuild(or replace if i can find one for a reasonable price - it sucks owning something "different") ONE MORE part, and then it should be in good enough shape to get back on the pavement.

i say keep it old school - old pickup, tucking fat slicks out back, powered by a juice fed big block. doesn't get much cooler than that!