Tmarter

Anyone heading down tonight? (as of 2:45 AM:lolguy:) Just trying to see how many people from CR are going to be down there.

yeah I threaded a bolt through the first time the rollpin broke, and there must've been such a little amount of wiggle that I wasn't able to notice...I pulled the bolt out and it was bent to shit...that might explain a few things lol tapped a steel pin in with a ball peen hammer and put some thick dabs of JB Weld on the ends so it has no where to go, shifts great, just in time for the nice weather this weekend!

Figured it out, the bolt that I replaced the rollpin with, wasn't big enough. Tapped in a steel pin and it fixed the problem:D

Yeah, my model was linear (2.0t) at stock, so it came with the f35 5 speed. the Arc (2.0T) and v6 Aero 2.8T both came with the f40, so I would just need the bellhousing and it would bolt right up. It's a stronger trans for sure, noiser, but the extra gear would probably be more useful with the gt30 build I have planned...Just debating whether a built 5 speed or 6 speed would be better for autoX and track, not entirely interested in drag at the moment, but not 100% out of the question

Yeah I'm keeping my fingers crossed...I know I'm rebuilding the 5 speed or swapping an f40 6 speed if it has to come out...plus LSD. Not sure if the 5 speed is worth rebuilding at 135k, or to pick up the f40 and buy new mounts cables etc...but the pontiac G6 f40 bolts right up and it's only 400 new. http://www.ebay.com/itm/G6-6-Speed-Manual-Transmission-0-Miles-F40-Trans-/251157968650 Also does anyone know of a shop that does cryo treating or shot peening in central Ohio?

I'd go, but I'm helping someone move Saturday morning. 8pm to 12am would work tho :gabe: But isn't there usually another group that heads up to Easton Saturday night then cruises to the Sawmill meet?

Welllll, back to my One-Man Wolfpack :megusta:

There was a roll pin that completely broke, that one locked the weighted cable arm to the selector shaft, and I wasn't even able to select gears at all when that happened... I put a bolt and locking nut in there to fix the problem, and I could select gears after that, but there was still a lot of play in that shaft... Is there another one that could have broken somewhere that isn't inside the bellhousing? Because the shaft is definitely loose and that would make sense if there was another bad pin somewhere... I just don't have a diagram to base off of. Tomorrow is my day off so I'll be looking around more then. Thanks for the advice so far.

Actually not specifically a Cobalt, I just know they use the same 5 speed manual trans. I have an 04 Saab 9-3

Didn't think I'd find another Saaber on here! I'm assuming you have the f35 5 speed? and that you've already tried adjusting the cables inside the shifter assembly? You can usually adjust the right cable for vertical throw, and align it up so that it stays in? I'm actually trying to adjust something on my trans too as the cable adjustment doesn't help my issue, but if you need tranny work Call Shepard Auto Care up in Newark, ask for Dave. He does great work :thumbup:

Then again, you could pick up a coolant temp sensor (or thermostat) for like 7 bucks at advance auto, given they fit in a VW and aren't something "super special" that needs to be imported...lol I hate that s**t about euros

Not sure how the vdubs look under the hood, but if you have room, take the DV out and check the rubber diaphragm. If it is torn or crack you need a new one. If your idle is jumpy, listen for a leak somewhere...if the bad idle doesn't seem to be from a leak, my guess would be the crank position sensor. My first car was a 90 passat, so I know about the wierd electrical problems, but a coolant temp sensor shouldn't have much to do with a bad idle and stalling, if that was the case i'd be looking at the temps on the cluster (idk if theyre controlled by the ecu or mechanical). if it stays in the cold, it would be a temp sensor or thermostat stuck open, overheating if it was stuck closed. Check all your boost pipes, check the vacuum pump and brake booster for leaks. There's been a few times when I've sworn I checked all the lines for a leak and I always end up finding one when I go back and look.

The s10's weren't ecotecs were they? I know a Colorado trans will bolt up to that, not sure about if that trans will bolt to a 350 though.

***SOLVED*** So I'm trying to fix a loose shifter, but the play isn't in the cables, I've already tried adjusted them and ruled that out. The play is in the weighted arm on the bellhousing that the cable connects to, and it seems like its not even aligned right... 1st is almost blocked because it hits the side of the battery, and barely slips in...and pops out when I start to engage the clutch. Tried a couple test runs and it won't even go in 1,3 or 5. Not sure if there is another adjustment, or if the forks could be bent (someone said that bent forks is almost impossible with the way the f35 is set up, but I haven't torn one apart to tell if that's a valid statement or not.

True, there's only a handful that do swaps on them from what i've seen on the saab forums the past couple years. Tuning is the biggest thing because the Trionic 8 ECU is a tough nut to crack, but bare bones, it's a turbo on a Cobalt SS engine. If it had standalone, I'd take the intake manifold, blower and necessary pullies off the SS and bolt it right up, slap a 35r on and twincharge the sucker! :lolguy: