Moto-Brian

That's interesting as I was going on fit and finish alone. Good to hear (well, bad to hear in your experience, I guess) they are not as good when in use type of deal... I can say, however that the visual out of the portal and the fit is mucho better than anything they have done thus far...

Icon may be getting away from the bulky lids, but even that airframe is not near as solid a piece when sat beside an Arai, Bell Star, Shoei, etc. The fit and finish is very antique and even though they church it up with the weight, I am willing to bet it comes in heavier. I think it may be the way it is designed that makes it feel cumbersome, but when you pick it up and something comparable, it doesn't win out. I will say they are getting better. But, they still have a ways to go. I'm telling you for the money, the RS-1 and the Scorpion or even the new higher end HJC are great options in that similar price range...

Why not try the RS-1 or Star from Bell? They are MUCH better than the Virtex. The Vortex is shooting for the lower end customer. The Icon is VERY heavy...

Will be there.

Yes, I run the Laguna suits. I feel they are really good and high quality in the way they are stitched and the way the seams are thought out. In this price range we are discussing, the Laguna comes out higher in cost by a good bit, but think the $799 (retail) Imola is a better choice than either the Cortech or S&S. Honestly, the Monza and Willow at $699 and $599 are better choices after seeing them and even trying them on. AGV Sport is awesome and held up in a pretty good low side I had. I've seen the Cortech roll seams in a similar lowside...

You need to grab on to a local guy to get the lines. VERY important to learn the lines. You really should have done a Moto Series track day to learn the lines. WAY faster than you think. Scary at certain lap times, but totally capable. Good luck!

When you look at the zip tye or o-ring on your forks, are they around 1/4" or less from bottoming out? Also, are you running extenders? Those bikes need fork extenders to get the right amount of needed trail...

It's a 360 zipper. Totally fine for track day use. They do not market the jackets to be suitable for track use because typically, these are a street use item. Even their mesh jackets are sometimes a 360 waist. But a mesh jacket isn't a track day approved item even if mated to leather pants. Marketing is all...

Kinda stiff, man. To each their own for sure, but on the GSXRs, I was at 32-35 front and rear. Did OK with that setting on sag, but did mess with the comp/reb once in a while. More on chassis geo than anything on the GSXRs, but again, no two riders will be the same, but that is on the stiff side for someone VERY hard on brakes for example...

Well, this Sunday is out for me due to Mid-O. Next weekend is out due to work and hopefully MS race. I'd say that the second weekend in Sept is looking good. I'd have to look at the MS schedule and see what the dates are in Sept, but really, Sept looks good. I'd like to try and get it done before the last Mid-O events in Sept in case someone wanted to try their settings and I can assist in adjusting if need be...

These are really great bikes. Totally sex on wheels and the sound... wow. But, I would say a certain company makes a pretty decent track only machine that might take the "Best out of the box track setup bike" award...

Getting into Advanced is less about lap time and more about rider and how you ride. But, to answer your question, we have PLENTY examples of stock machines with even under suspended bikes that are running in the top tier of lap times in the "A" group. Nothing exceptional in getting a stocker into "A"... That being said, one thing Reuben can POSSIBLY do is make some valving changes on your stock shock. The issue is that money will get you close to buying a used Penske online at WERA or similar. On a GSXR like you have, you should find them between $500-$750 depending on condition. That would be a triple clicker and not the double that is also fine, but would be cheaper... Check out Reuben and get the shock and really, your forks - all serviced and ready to go. You'll be amazed at the difference the right (quality) oil makes and the fact that most guys have close to no nitro left in their shocks...

So, is this thing even close to coming together or is it dead in the water?

....

They are pre-load adjustable which can be adjusted for sag (What you adjust for sag primarily - you CAN adjust to a degree with COMP, but mostly, pre-load.) The sag numbers should be around a range of 30-35mm. That's topped out and then where the measurement is with rider in gear. This is a starting point only and then adjusted per rider's ability and comfort/style. ANY bike is around that series of numbers generally. Some are less, some are more and street will depend on what you are doing with the bike. But, in general, look for 32-ish is where I typically tell guys to start and work from there. You really want balance front and rear. Smaller sag #s in rear vs. front are sometimes typical (my bike is this way) for guys that are racing and certain bikes. I run a 35mm front and 30mm rear...

Larry's stuff is custom built. Don't let the marketing fool you... That being said, they are on par with the Speed and Strength suits. Honestly, slightly lower, but close. I think for the average track day rider and even beginning racer, fine choice and will be OK in buying one. Basically, at that price point, you have very few choices...

Be careful about raising the rear on the GSXR. The GSXR family of newer gen bike chassis need the fronts raised and rears lower. This creates trail which is MUCH needed on that chassis. You really need to get extenders to get it right... Also, an instructor telling you that you need to flick in quicker to get to "I" group is a bit off base. There are TONS more to be working on and thinking about before quicker turn in. Think about these topics and work on these before worrying about the quicker turn in. -Body position. If you flick the bike faster and have poor body position, it isn't going to work well together. You can push and pull until your heart's delight, but if the body is screwed up, it is all for nothing. -Braking up and down and setting up for a turn - Corner entry. Sure, flicking it in faster will be a part of the corner entry, but the corner has three parts. Entry, mid corner and drive out. What kind of turn is it? How do you approach it? Basic understanding of corner entry along with body position is more important than flicking it fast... -Line choice and transition from entry to exit of a turn. One thing I will say is that the "I" lessons they teach are somewhat weird especially when the lead guy is taking lines that I firmly feel are not correct at Mid-O. I really disagree with the poor line choices being taught and while you were in Novice, "I" instructor I am referring to is teaching poor technique and poor implementation of lines. You need to understand what the edges of the track are. Three lines. Outside, middle and inside. They should teach the three line drill simply because it allows you to understand the width of the track. Once understanding that, there is an optimal race line. Take the word "race" out and understand it to be more of the "most efficient" or "most effective" line around the track. We arent expecting everyone to be a racer and some of the instructors get all huffy over this, but the race line is the line that needs to be taught because it is the most efficient. Efficient means less work, more ability to be relaxed and focus vs fighting and working harder. Sure, lower lap times will be a result, but the idea is to be using as little energy as possible to have a reserve is shit hits the fan. -Mid-Corner work. You need to understand what to do mid turn. It is something not many think about. They look at it as braking into a turn, turn in and exit. Well, mid turn is important. Take the Key Hole. Mid turn at the Key Hole offers a lot of things to be working on. Line change during mid turn if need be, working the throttle and understanding what neutral throttle means, understand what moving on the bike does mid turn, what we need to do mid turn to lead to the next important step - drive. -Drive. How to exit a turn. Putting the elements above together leads to drive on exit. This is one of the most important things. How does that guy on a 600 blast past a 1000 before the kink on the back straight? Drive. How does one get a great drive? All those other elements. Again, I understand quicker turn in is important, but there are other things that rank higher than that. However, maybe you are doing all those things well and that is the only element missing. I don't really know. but, flow, smooth, consistent, etc are all things that an "I" rider battles against. Several incidents that occur in "I" group are a result of these elements not being worked on or focused on. There is much more, but these to me are the keys.

What was your excuse for Putnam? I know I heard rumblings about a bikini wax, but that shit isn't going to get too raw under a leather suit. I did have to work last Nelson and will miss the next one and Grattan due to work also...

Wait, you're going to actually come to a race track soon? No way!! I call shenanigans!

All I am going to say is that when you make a verbal agreement with a guy on the phone and change your process and just text him after another guy is coming, that's really shady and easily could upset someone. I know I'd be upset over that deal. Nobody said you ripped anyone off here. I can understand emotions making someone say something stronger, but the fact is after selling so many things along the years I have been doing this, if you verbally talk to me about something I am selling, it is sold to you and I am willing to wait a bit. Even if you are the 3rd, 5th or whatever guy that has talked to me. Next time, set a timeline. "I'll hold it for you for 2 days. After end of the day tomorrow, I am going to take whomever has cash in hand on Wednesday first thing." Would have saved a lot of issues. But, again... You making it sound like an AFJ thing, had you done that to a WERA person, you'd have been black flagged for sure.

I also want to add one more thing about this BS shit between OR and AFJ and I will be done. There was some sort of crap about concerns on my part with one guy fiddle fucking with my stuff. Well, several AFJ guys came OVER to me or caught me while walking through and supported me and told me that it wasn't anything to worry about. In fact, Josh was the first. All said they had my back, but knew the dude and knew it was all BS and nothing to worry about. There are some on there as well as here that have a tough guy act online. But, there are enough of them and OR guys that ARE GOOD GUYS that stupid shit like that won't be tolerated by either side. In other words, don't make this an issue where there is some bullshit notion that the AFJ guys are bad dudes and ride dirty or try and fight all the time. Just like any of us, you screw with us or mess with our shit whether AFJ or OR and you will be messing with a whole group. I feel at the track, the AFJ and OR and us guys that are in between and not partial to either all blend together and become one family essentially. The race family I have is extensive and I know from personal experience that someone screws with me or my race family and they screw with us all. Like Matt stated, no issues and they all race clean and well. If you have a personal AFJ issue? Take it somewhere else. I will say the same thing to the AFJ groups. If they have an OR issue, take it somewhere else. I can also say that the guys on the sites on either side that talk shit and stir shit? They are NEVER at bike nights or the track so, who cares. Rant over. Back to the Putnam discussion. Madcat was a pussy for not coming. Begin.

Dude, that's kind of a bullshit deal you did there in my opinion and I really think it is the wrong thing here in this thread. You are making it sound like an AFJ thing when you changed the rules by texting the guy back and changing the rules. I'd have flipped a bitch also had we had an agreement and then someone calls you sounding solid and you call me back to change it up. It isn't an AFJ thing and Matt made good with Josh. The AFJ that race MS are good guys and have been great to race with from the sounds of it from everyone. Wrong thing to be adding to the thread, dude. You got a very bad rep from other sites also about this deal...

I was adding preload Sunday. I even added preload to the rear as the rubber down was making more gripe than Saturday. The preload allowed it to steer better. I was just amazed at how much slower the track was...

The thing here is the track day part. The bikes being suggested are good choices for longer hauls and great street rides, but the key to the OP's comments was "perform as well as the R6 at the track". The VFR and FZs are not going to be that good. FZ better than the VFR, but I think maybe something like the R6 Sport might be something to consider. It is a motor that has more low end torque and is still a great track bike. Or, consider something like the 675. More torque, but possibly as brutal on the longer hauls, but seems to be more user friendly for street riding. Or, buy a good used bike like an older VFR, etc and keep the R6...