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Safe Room planning?


madcat6183

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ah, composite armor - something that mil-spec has been working on for decades. There would be a lot of testing to validate. Latest is really exotic polymers that flex and dissipate energy sideways. What you describe reminds me of Chobham armor on modern main battle tanks. Multi layers of who knows what since they won't quite ever tell. Something like 8 or more layers of steel, ceramic, and polymers.

 

For lighter weight it's hard to beat simple sheets of ballistic ceramic. Titanium also works. I've heard of work done with exotic weaves, but not sure if anything has developed from it yet.

I know someone who makes the stuff for mil-spec apps... 

Edited by mello dude
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  • 3 months later...

Todds a bit off.  I did bring a plate but it was a cheap one about the equivalent of AR300 or so. It was not a blackout and it was not 100 yards. It was a dumbass shooting at it at 60 yards with a 300 win mag and those were the only 3 rounds that did anything to it.

Youre not goign to pierce 1/2" AR500 without using an AP round or something super small going 4000fps+  

 

I shoot my AR500 targets at anwhyere from 20-1200 yards with every caliber you could imagine and no problems. Yes that includes a .223 at 20ft just as a test. 

 

Ive got just a little bit of steel at the house. This doenst even count another 5 10" squares that get hung at various distances when the crops are down. Im fortunate enough to basically have my own personal range out to 850-1200 yards depending on how I set things up once the crops are cut. 

 

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Edited by flounder
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I am surprised no one has mentioned Polycarbonate (lexan). Bullet proof glass in plastic. In combination with the steel armor plate, should be able to stop anything up to a 50cal ap.  When used in layers with the special film laminate, it will stop 3006 ap even without the steel armor plate

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I am surprised no one has mentioned Polycarbonate (lexan). Bullet proof glass in plastic. In combination with the steel armor plate, should be able to stop anything up to a 50cal ap.  When used in layers with the special film laminate, it will stop 3006 ap even without the steel armor plate

It also needs to be specially constructed to do so. you cant just go by lexan and stack it together and get the same effect. by the time you get something that will stop what you want, you'll pay the money for it. 

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Being this thread came back.  Here are pictures of a piece of steel I purchased just for the reason of punching holes in it.  Shot it at 100 yards with my Garand running 1950's vintage .30-06 AP ammo.  The plate is 3/4 inch thick unknown grade, I got it from the pile at the scrap yard for $14.  You notice that some of the bullet cores are still in the plate.  That happened as the plate started to fall over backwards in the mud and they just didn't have the energy to continue pushing through the steel.

 

First pick is the front side (bullets went in)

 

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Back side. (bullets came out)

 

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Edited by vf1000ride
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It also needs to be specially constructed to do so. you cant just go by lexan and stack it together and get the same effect. by the time you get something that will stop what you want, you'll pay the money for it. 

I don't believe I said anything about just picking up your plain old lexan at the hardware store. I did state that it needs to be the layered kind with the special laminate between the plates. It is used in a lot of the armored vehicles due to the plastic weight vs glass. One of it's attributes is that it melts around the bullet and basically grabs a hold of it as it tries to pass through.

Edited by myhondas
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