330racing Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Please forgve me for placing this post here since it isnt track racing per se, but I figured this would be the best place. I am taking the 14 to the Ohio Mile in September and need to lockwire front and rear axle bolts. I am in the Akron area and need a shop to do this for me. Any suggestions (the only shop that is a no-go is MPH...I refuse to give them my $$). I am not wanting to do this myself. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 All you need drilled are the axle bolts? I don't even think I'd need to re-charge my drill battery to knock that out... What's your aversion to doing it yourself? I hate drilling through the corner of axle bolts when that's necessary, but otherwise I think the bigger ones are easier than the smaller ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue03636 Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 If you don't want to do it your self, Todd at Motoseries does this. They have a shop in valley view. (866) 678-6686 That being said, it isn't that hard to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
330racing Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 The rule book says pinch bolts, axles, axle bolts..... never done it and honestly want to make sure done right...2013 street bike.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Todd's prices are reasonable, if memory serves. Or you can come by my house with a pack of drill bits and some beer. Lawn chair and classic rock provided while you wait... Drilling is slow, but not hard. I've done it on at least 3 different bikes. Most recently I did the drain plug on the Katana. That is NOT a small bolt... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
330racing Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 If you are willing to help....Lmk what I need to buy. As soon as I get tires changed I'll get a hold of u. Maybe in the next month or so?? Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Take the pieces off and drill. Do not drill on the bike as it is much tougher. The issue on the ZX14 is the front axle. It is an Allen style and needs to have the holes drilled at an angle to allow the axle to recess in the fork lowers. This is easy to do and again - do on all flat sides. Reason being is that if you drill the way it is on the bike now, the holes may not align the right amounts when tigethened. Take the front axle on both sides and pull to tighten and connect to the pinch bolts which are very easy to drill. Again, all flat sides is best. For the rear axle, it is done for you. It has a cotter pin through the rear nut and axle. So, you just need to get a large sized diaper pin style cotter and wire to the axle adjuster bolts. Use the diaper style so you can release it easily. Use heat shrink for a professional result... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 You do not need to wire the opposite side of the rear axle... It is locked on the one side and cannot come undone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 If you are willing to help....Lmk what I need to buy. As soon as I get tires changed I'll get a hold of u. Maybe in the next month or so?? Thanks!! as long as our schedules jive, I'm happy enough to help. snap some pics of the bolts you want drilled, and pick up a few of the kobalt (or any name-brand) bits. They don't have to be the uber-tiny size, but the harbor-freight 12-pack breaks too easily, so the name-brand bits seem to be a better value, since you can do 5 bolts per bit instead of burning through two bits on every bolt. patience and cutting lube to keep everything cool also seems to really help. I may need to get my drill jig back from R1Crusher after 3 or 4 years now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J_Copeland Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 Mark the bolt's or whatever send them to me,I'll drill them out for free at my shop.PM me if interested !Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 ^ do that. A drill press makes things much easier. I only resort to that when I get really frustrated, but it's the way to go if it's an option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J_Copeland Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 ^ do that. A drill press makes things much easier. I only resort to that when I get really frustrated, but it's the way to go if it's an option.I use an .062 endmill and it drills thru like butter with no breakage.I did my whole bike with 1 endmill.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helmutt Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 (edited) I ordered bolts for my ZX14 that come predrilled. Saved the old hardware ( just in case ) -- they have quite a bit of race spec hardware of various metals, and anodized in various colors, so you can get fancy with it if you want.www.probolt.com Edited July 8, 2014 by Hellmutt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helmutt Posted July 15, 2014 Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 You order hardware or drill the OEM stuff? Just wondering how it's coming and when you plan to run the OhioMile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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