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DIY glass pack!


Gixxus Christ!

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Looking to convert my pretty much open MAC pipe to a glass pack. Wondering if anyone has experience in this. I've already found perforated pipe on ebay and am more curious about what fiberglass and how much to pack it with. My current setup is just a welded end plate that used to be part of the baffle that caps the can from like a 4 inch megaphone to an inch and a half outlet.

Edited by CrazySkullCrusher
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Get glass packing for a motorcross muffler rebuild kit.  Iron Pony or any online shop should have the stuff.  The stuff I use on my Duc comes in sheet form.  You wrap it around the perforated core tube until it builds up a layer that will just barely fit back in the outer can.  You want to wrap it snug but not crazy tight, the tighter it is wrapped it could make the pipe louder again.

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I did this with my old zx6r. I had some old 1/4" walled, 3" ID aluminum tube stock I put on a CNC mill and put a bunch of holes in it and wrapped with FMF repack kit. It worked well for about two years. Would have worked longer I'm sure, but stuck a yosh can on it.

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Ok ordered the perforated tubing and a 1/2x10x38 sheet of fiberglass. The fmf kit is only 15x10 and doesn't list thickness. I'm doing a 14" baffle that goes from roughly 2 1/4 to 4" diameter (old school megaphone shape) and I want to be sure I have enough. The end cap has about 4" of 1.5" pipe that goes into the can that was part of the original baffle. I shouldn't have a problem cutting it down and getting it to jive with the perforated tubing. My last stumbling block is to make up the space between the tubing and the inside of the muffler, which is about 1/2 inch on either side...thinking of either turning a washer type part on a lathe and welding it on or just going around the end of the tubing with header tape until it's big enough to make a decent seal...not sure exactly what I'll do yet...

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For a tapered pipe you just layer it thicker as the pipe expands.  Mine are tapered megaphone style also.  You start your wrap at the small end and you don't overlap very much.  As you work your way to the thick end of the pipe you overlap more and more with each pass around the inner core.  Think of it like header wrap, a narrow overlap builds up very slow, lots of overlap builds a thicker wrap of matting.  Mine are extra special because the pipe even has a kink in it so after you wrap the core you kinda have to thread it back into the outer can.  Sorry I don't have any pictures of it when it was apart.

 

IMG_0935.jpg

 

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Me and Nick (gsxkatana1100) knocked it out tonight for the most part....need to grab some reducers to make up the id-od gap at the small end and pop in a few rivets but it's together and it sounds pretty damn sweet. Nowhere near as loud as it was and it doesn't have that tinny metallic rattle you get from a big hollow can. Pretty happy with it for the $40 I spent on materials vs $100 for a new can...and its something I fabbed up myself.

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Ok. So I took some snaps while finalizing my build.

Bought an autozone reducer to go from the 2" pipe the can is made out of to the 1.5" perforated tubing I used as a core.

20140812_171246.jpg

Dropped it down the can small end first and then tapped the core down into it to make a press fit. Pulled it out and started test fitting how to wrap the glass.

20140812_171330.jpg

From there it was pretty simple. Put the can back together with the screw that held the original baffle in. I plan on drilling a few holes and securing it with pop rivets.

so I pretty much went from this

[url =http://s1110.photobucket.com/user/faghammer5/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140812_171221.jpg.html]20140812_171221.jpg

To this

20140812_171656.jpg

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