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gold valve bubbies, school me


Gixxus Christ!

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Ok so I have a set of sonic straight rate springs and a set of gold valves on the way for my bandit. I'm totally comfortable with fork work as far as doing seals and oil etc. I have no experience with gold valves. Looks like I'll get a chart for what shims to use or somethin. Just fishing for wisdom from someone who's had success with this mod.

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pretty straight forward.  you can follow the chart, or do your own shim stack.  directions from race tech are pretty good, i don't think you'll have any trouble.  you may need tiny drill bits sometimes they require you drill out the valve.

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I did racetech gold valves in the front of my Triumph Sprint. A whole crap ton better than stock when finished. I used their numbers for shim setup and couldn't be happier. I haven't had any need to go back and mess with it.

Ryan put Racetech gold valves and springs in my Sprint and it was a completely new bike after.

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I've been thinking on putting a set of gold valves on my Triumph, the front is just so soft.

 

NDSpd:  The RT gold valves won't really change the problem of an overly soft fork.  The valves are simply a 2-stage valve to fine tune your compression setting.  They come with several valve springs for soft/medium/hard compression and of course you can fine tune the feel by varying the oil viscosity as well.  The valves sit at the bottom of the fork legs and allow the valving to work on small hits and then open up at the pre-set spring rate for the big hits.  Essentially, it lets you fine tune your small-hit response with a pre-set bypass for big hits.  You'll still need to upgrade the fork springs to a heavier rate.  If you're in the 200+ lbs with gear on, it's likely you'll need springs in the 0.90 - 1.0 kg/mm (your stock spring rate is 0.77 kg/mm).

Edited by Bubba
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