Guest doggunracing Posted May 4, 2005 Report Share Posted May 4, 2005 Quick version: Drove car into garage, 3 days later it wouldn't crank. Headlights, domelight, clock have full power, accessory and ignition don't. I didn't touch anything electrical between the days. When I turn the key, nothing happens. Neither ignition nor accessory have any power. 30A ignition fuse is popped, replaced and popped again as soon as the key was turned to ignition. A hot wire tied to ignition is grounding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest racinbird Posted May 4, 2005 Report Share Posted May 4, 2005 A hot wire tied to ignition is grounding?[/QB] yup!! well sort of, a "hot wire is tied to battery, a switched wire is tied to ignition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest doggunracing Posted May 4, 2005 Report Share Posted May 4, 2005 I meant, "Is a hot wire that is somehow connected to the ignition grounding out, causing the fuse to blow?" I guess I fixed it. The ground wire for my gauges was off the head. I have it run through the ignition for the water temp, so I guess it was grounding it out? I don't really know why that would blow the ignition fuse though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest racinbird Posted May 4, 2005 Report Share Posted May 4, 2005 A loose ground wire shouldn't effect a power feed circuit causing it to blow a fuse. If the ground is loose/off the gauge just won't work. Plus a 30a fuse would take a bigger gauge wire to short out then a small cluster gauge wire. With a 30a fused cirucit, a smaller gauge wire that typically runs to a water temp gauge would melt before a 30a fuse blows. just my .02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mensan Posted May 5, 2005 Report Share Posted May 5, 2005 I had the same symptoms when my O2 sensor was melted through, grounding it to the exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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