Thanks everyone Valve Seals Still need more tips HELP i dont wanna screw this up

[Guest FBody Addict]

Local garage says heads must be removed to replace valve seals (Don't wanna do that---no time or $$$ to have the heads machined)

 

Manual has two options---compressed air into the cylinder or feed a piece of rope through the spark plug hole

 

Two questions

 

Which method would cause less damage to cylinder

 

And if I went with the compressed air method, where would I find the fitting to fit the spark plug threads, as I believe the threads are a 9/16-24 or 14mm fine thread, and I can't find fittings with that thread

 

[ 27. July 2004, 01:53 AM: Message edited by: wickedpyroclown ]

[nurkvinny]

Step 1 - NEVER go back to that shop. EVER.

 

I have never used the rope method, but have many friends that have. Make sure to use rope that won't leave 'hairs' in the cylinder.

 

I've always used compressed air. This is the way to go, IMO. Call NAPA; they have the fitting/tool. Looks like this:

http://www.myimpala.com/images/53306.jpg

 

Also, I believe plug sizes are 14mm and 18mm.

[COLD AIR]

take the porcelein out of a plug, see if you can get a hose on what is left maybe superglue it on

[Guest FBody Addict]

found the hose from a 15$$ compression tester fits, which is cool cause i was gonna check the compression anyway, and the gauge itself connects to the hose with an air fitting, now, is there a certain psi that the compressor should be set at so that it maintains enough pressure to hold the valve up?

I was kinda wary about the rope meathod anyway because of "hairs" but a nylon rope with the end melted shouldn't fray and leave hairs should it?

 

i never have trusted shops because they will try to sell me all sorts of things i dont need anyway

thanks for the heads up though

[nurkvinny]

I've always used full shop air pressure (~125lbs).

 

See my reply here:

http://www.columbusracing.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=23;t=000991

[Guest FBody Addict]

now how do i adjust valve lash i have hydraulic lifters, so i don't have to be TOO precise do i? and just to be sure that it is valve seals i need the symptoms are plugs covered in soot, all only on one side of the block, blue oil-smell smoke when it starts, but then it goes away after a few seconds, but after about a minute you can smell the oil burning but the exhaust is clear

[Dave1647545494]

this is a chevy motor?

 

with the engine idling and warm back the rocker nut off untill the valve starts to tick a little then slowly tighten up the nut till the ticking just stops then go one more full turn 1/4 of a turn at a time go slow if you tighten up the rocker too fast the engine will stall and you have to start over they make little deflector clips you can buy at an autoparts store to keep the hot oil from squirt everywere or you can toss a rag over the rockers to keep the mess down.

 

 

or

 

 

if your worried about messing it up and you don't have it apart yet. I'll change the valve seals and set the lash for 50 bucks just provide the parts

[Guest FBody Addict]

thanks for the offer but i am an auto tech student and need the experience but if somone would assist me i would be grateful

 

yeah, its a #$%& chevy

[Dave1647545494]

thats cool just get the spalsh things and follow the directions its real easy. the tool you want is called an air hold you can buy it at napa for 10 dollars it comes with both size sparkplug adapters. also make sure the piston on the cylinder you are working on is at TDC(top dead center) it takes less air to fill the cylinder that way. you also need an on the car vlave spring compressor get a good one from sears or off of one of the tool trucks a parts store china special won't do three springs befor it breaks.

as you start to compress the valve springs it may be nessecary to lightly tap on the spring compressor to get the valve locks out of the retainers. feel free to email or call if you start working on it and you need advice.

[Guest FBody Addict]

Learned alot doing this, although i still have the tricky #8 at the back i just dont feel like dealing with it at 1:45 am i didnt put the pistons at TDC, i figured no matter what position the cylinder was at it would still leak the same amount of air

had some keepers bind up and the spring would compress (used a clamp style compresser) but wouldnt let the spring cap (i dont care if thats the right term, its 2am) disengage from the top of the valve, so i released the clamp, took a socket and an extension and used a hammer to break the spring loose from the keepers, and then used the clamp and it came off how it was supposed to ( if you knew this it would have helped if you told me beforehand, but its ok i dont hold grudges) Thanks for your Help

[Dave1647545494]

I did tell you .... you may have to lightly tap the spring compressor to get the valve locks out of the retainers. maybe light tap to me = beat it with a hammer for you. I always just tap the top of the compressor with a hammer or my hand till the locks pop out. then use a small pencil magnet to fish them out.