Wax vs Touchfree carwash soap

[Buck531]

Meguiars Gold Class is the devil!!! I used it years ago. One coat.. 1-2 washes.. gone. No matter how many coats I put on it.

 

Sure, it looked great right after I did it, but a few weeks later and a few washes.. it looked like I had never even waxed the car.

[Mowgli1647545497]

Originally posted by Hoblick:

that mr. clean auto dry is bad shit... it has a chemical that will deterriate your paint.

Where'd you hear that? Got a link? I'd like to know, because if its true I'll stop using it. If its urban legend then I'm going to keep on using it because it works.

 

Looked over the box again last night, saw no reference on the box/instructions/etc to any additive in the waterflow - just a filter cartidge.

[AudiOn19s]

While I havn't used it I havn't heard many negatives other than the cost of the replacement filters and how often they have to be replaced sucks.

 

I did alittle searching and there tends to be 2 theory's on this issue. One is that the soap tends to be strong on the PH scale and strips wax which helps with sheeting of the water on final rinse in conjunction with the filtering action.

 

What makes more sense to me is that there's an addative in there that actually assists the water sheeting action. While this may sound silly I've actually used a couple of synthetic waxes that were not very slick to the touch and actually promoted sheeting of water rather than beading....so my impression is that it can be done without having a bare surface.

 

Sorry I have no concrete answers though...and can't seem to find them either. I'd say your fine using it for now.

 

Andy

[Mowgli1647545497]

I tend to fall into the theory that by letting the car sit with ionized water on it while it dries, pollen, and other airborne particulates settle onto the car that would normally get wiped off by towel drying (and swirling the paint, but thats another matter).

 

I've used soap other than Mr Clean's in it and that worked just as well.

 

You wet, you soap, you rinse with regular water, then you set it to "ionized, filtered", and rinse again. My bet is the advertised lack of water spotting comes from zero contaminants in the final rinse water.

 

There seems to be no sheeting action additive, or any additive at all to the final filtered water.

 

Still researching, but I'm finding nothing negative.

[martindc1]

Originally posted by Buck531:

Meguiars Gold Class is the devil!!! I used it years ago. One coat.. 1-2 washes.. gone. No matter how many coats I put on it.

 

Sure, it looked great right after I did it, but a few weeks later and a few washes.. it looked like I had never even waxed the car.

Yeah I can see that, but unfortunately I have little real world experience because my Mustang is not my DD. The time I replied about though my Mustang was my DD because my truck was down, but I don't have repeated tests/results. I will say this though: 1. With one coat from an orbital buffer it lasted two washes, the third wash it was almost gone 2. I am very satisfied with the appearance. One note is that I think a hand application will hold up a little better than a buffer application (subjective). In conclusion, I think that it works fine for my application (where my car seldom sees precipitaion and doesn't get driven daily, but if someone wants their car to look good all the time and it is their daily driver they may want to look at a higher priced option (Zaino etc.) unless they like waxing their car once a week.

[martindc1]

Originally posted by Mowgli:

[QB] I tend to fall into the theory that by letting the car sit with ionized water on it while it dries, pollen, and other airborne particulates settle onto the car that would normally get wiped off by towel drying (and swirling the paint, but thats another matter)./QB]

Absolutely, ie. a morning dew and by midmorning you have spots all over where dust settled in the drops and then dried. I will say this, after one of those big air dryers blows my car off, I can dry it with a 12x12 terri cloth towel. I only wish I had my way with what soap and such a drive-through wash used, if I had to guess it is probably stronger since the wash is touch free, meaning since there is mechanical means (besides high pressure water) to remove contaminates, it relies on higher strength detergent. I really need to read up on the dos and the do nots of car washing because you can really remove some shit (like at the bottom of the body just behind the wheels) with this car washing sponge and some soap I have. But there again that mechanical action probably removes wax like my theoretical high detergent drive-through carwash soap