Science Abuse Posted March 23, 2006 Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 Just got a wicked sale offer on a TKO and Lakewood Scattershield. How will this compare to a T5 in terms of swapping from an AOD to the TKO? Harder? What will it require? etc etc? Anyone recomend a good Drive Shaft shortening place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 23, 2006 Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 swap will go the same , TKO FTW! does it come with a shifter? clutch is different, i think! cant remember! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Science Abuse Posted March 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 I'm not a cool kid: does "FTW = For Teh Winz? No shifter, will a stock T5 shifter work? I've got one somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedfocus1647545489 Posted March 23, 2006 Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 The early TKO (produced before the Tremec 500 & 600 was released) uses a 26-spline disc and a 31 spline output shaft. You would need a tremec specific shifter (same as the one that fits the old tremec 3550 - B&M #45054 for instance) and a 31-spline trans yoke (FRPP sells one - available @ Jegs or probably any trans shop). If you don't already have a clutch, it's no price difference usually, just make sure the kit you get is for a 26-spline input (Centerforce does a DF for it). If you already had one for a 10-spline input - you'll need to at least get a 10.5" 26-spline disc (although at that point, you should probably just buy a whole matched kit). Since you'd already have the bellhousing... the shifter, clutch and driveshaft yoke are really the only other worries. As for driveshaft length, I thought they remained the same, but I am not sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrtbolt64 Posted March 24, 2006 Report Share Posted March 24, 2006 The early TKO (produced before the Tremec 500 & 600 was released) uses a 26-spline disc and a 31 spline output shaft. You would need a tremec specific shifter (same as the one that fits the old tremec 3550 - B&M #45054 for instance) and a 31-spline trans yoke (FRPP sells one - available @ Jegs or probably any trans shop). If you don't already have a clutch, it's no price difference usually, just make sure the kit you get is for a 26-spline input (Centerforce does a DF for it). If you already had one for a 10-spline input - you'll need to at least get a 10.5" 26-spline disc (although at that point, you should probably just buy a whole matched kit). Since you'd already have the bellhousing... the shifter, clutch and driveshaft yoke are really the only other worries. As for driveshaft length, I thought they remained the same, but I am not sure. To add to this you should indicate the bell housing to centrline of crank. The lakewood instructions tell you to do this. Though not required you should put a longer fork on considering the hole for the clutch cable is spaced out farther. I have a aluminum drive shaft and tko shifter if your interested contact me at jiterfish1@netscape.net I am below canal winchester. Chad Fisher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Science Abuse Posted March 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2006 I wont know about the drive shaft untill the tranny is in the car, since this is a Cougar and not a mustang. Unless you know the measurements of the TKO/scattersheild, and how long your driveshaft is. If it doesn't come with a shifter, I'll likely be after yours, though. This is what I'm getting in the package deal: -Tremec TKO 5spd (only 1 hour on the new case, the lower ears are welded) -Lakewood scatter shield -Flywheel and clutch included – both are in like new condition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrtbolt64 Posted March 24, 2006 Report Share Posted March 24, 2006 the lower ears are welded) This would worry me as to why it broke in the 1st place??? It better be a cheap package deal. If and when you do it, just give me a shout, the driveshaft was out of a 92 mustang. I can give you assistance on idicating bell There was a place off of Rich and Town that did a shaft for me many moons ago, fairly reasonable. This is my current project. http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450002242/9.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stolen 5.0 Posted March 24, 2006 Report Share Posted March 24, 2006 jump on that eric, i believe the TKO has a 26 spline input shaft compared to the 10 on a T-5. shifter is different also as stated. that scattershield is da suck to install, many many bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Science Abuse Posted March 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2006 Found this: http://www.campbellgeartech.com/images/tremec_tko_500_600.jpg Now I need the demensions of the scattersheild and the AOD, and I should be able to cook up a driveshaft lenth. I've been reading that most need them shortened by an inch, do any Mustang drive shafts come close to any of these measurements? 94-97 3.8L 4R70W 57" driveshaft (4R70W overall length 32") 89-95 3.8L M5R2 53.80" driveshaft (M5R2 overall length 35") 89-93 3.8L AOD 57.80" driveshaft (AOD overall length 31") 94-97 4.6L 4R70W 58.20" driveshaft (4R70W overall length 32") 93-98 Mark VIII 4R70W 58.20" driveshaft (4R70W overall length 32") 94-04 Crown Vic 4R70W 55.50" driveshaft (4R70W overall length 32") Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrtbolt64 Posted March 24, 2006 Report Share Posted March 24, 2006 wait till this evening I can let you know then once I get home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Science Abuse Posted March 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 Since this is used, I'd like to intall a new pilot and throw out bearing. Are these ging to require special parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 27, 2006 Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 the pilot bearing will, I have the tool... you may use it if needed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Science Abuse Posted March 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 The bearing itself, though, is it special? I'm hoping its a $40 part just like all the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 27, 2006 Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 throw out bearing yes! pilot bearing should be cheap.Most stock replacement kit's come with it! but the centerforce kit , is like that damn germain shit. You have to buy each peice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Science Abuse Posted March 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 bollocks, we'll see how "Like new" the clutch is when I get it. The guy is swapping classes to one that requires stock motor/transmission, and hes got a motor up for sale, too. Any idea what kind of abuse this motor could have brought upon our humble transmission? Either a FMS X cam Holley 650cfm carb, including fuel rail Edelbrock Victor Jr lower Trickflow Aluminum heads CompCams 1.6 roller rockers BBK shorty headers, Complete MSD ignition system (6AL, timing adjuster, distributor, and coil) Canton road race oil pan K&N air filter Maybe 350bhp at the most? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 27, 2006 Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 which trick flow heads? Ive seen the cnc ported one's put down 400 rwhp! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stolen 5.0 Posted March 27, 2006 Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 that tremec tko is fine, my buddy's has had tons of abuse, from nitrous to now a 500rwhp blower. as long as the guys is a good shifter, it should be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Science Abuse Posted March 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2006 Problem, he's located a case crack. Is this a roll pin? Can this inspection plate be removed easily? Looks like whatever fastener that is, is in there too tight, or is too big. I will want to pop that cover to repair the crack, but it looks like theres shit going on in there, is it like a T-5 with the shifters dangling from it? I'm thinkin on just popping the pin and welding slowly, depends on whats on the other side of that case. http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/3132/a835rx.jpg http://img472.imageshack.us/img472/1672/untitled6yj1.png http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/6196/untitled20hb.png Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stolen 5.0 Posted March 28, 2006 Report Share Posted March 28, 2006 if u decide u dont' want it, i'll take it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicktcfcsb Posted March 28, 2006 Report Share Posted March 28, 2006 yeah me too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Science Abuse Posted March 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2006 if u decide u dont' want it, i'll take it Oh I know I want it. I'm deciding to want it for $100 or $200 less then asking price, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrtbolt64 Posted March 29, 2006 Report Share Posted March 29, 2006 Someone has been inside that tranny for something. That crack looks pretty large. The only way to really fix it is to buy the new pieces or you will have to fully grind out that crack and build back up with weld. Just welding over the crack will still leave it prone to crack again. If you decide to buy it and repair it, you might want to give it to Bob Hanlon or Pro Motion Sorry for not getting back with dimensions, I have yet to even venture out to garage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Science Abuse Posted March 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2006 If you decide to buy it and repair it, you might want to give it to Bob Hanlon or Pro Motion Whos that? Depending on cost, I may be thinking rebuild, or at least a good inspection. This worries me: The issue appears to have been caused by 3 factors: too compliant bushings (stock bushings were used in the motor and tranny), driveshaft was soo short and the angle between the tranny and driveshaft was greater than 4 degrees. Having never run anything except stock classes, I had no idea about the proper way to set up the drive train. So the short answer to your question is user error!! http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/19/ears6lg.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrtbolt64 Posted March 29, 2006 Report Share Posted March 29, 2006 Whos that? Depending on cost, I may be thinking rebuild, or at least a good inspection. This worries me: http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/ Bob Hanlon is an NMRA racer or http://www.promotionpowertrain.com/index.html Walt Leaman helps a lot of the NMRA/FFW racers and is one of most helpful guys you would ever want to meet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Science Abuse Posted March 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2006 If I've got to pay shipping to have it repaired, on top o fthe cost of the repair, I'd be at the cost of a new one. If T5 rebuild knowlege can get me through a TKO rebuild, I might be able to do it myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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