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gotta love them quickies...


natedogg624

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quickie question that is.

i changed the geometry of the bike somewhat, lowered the front a few mm's.

anyways when i change the rebound on the top the clicks are somewhat off. by off i mean one is a 90deg angle and the other is maybe a 80deg angle from top.

worry about it change it or is this eh im ok?

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quickie question that is.

i changed the geometry of the bike somewhat, lowered the front a few mm's.

anyways when i change the rebound on the top the clicks are somewhat off. by off i mean one is a 90deg angle and the other is maybe a 80deg angle from top.

worry about it change it or is this eh im ok?

Were they off before you dropped the front?

If they weren't, your forks may have been twisted in the trees, and by loosening everything up you got the misalignment out.

On the other hand, you may have twisted things up by dropping the forks. The only way to know for sure is to check it.

The position of the compression or rebound screws dont really mean anything as far as the front end alignment goes. If they're different than they were before the adjustment means something has changed.

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ok some background first:

when i first bought it, the forks stuck out above the stock clip ons around 3-5mm's (they are supposed to be flush) then i found out it had 70 profile on their from guy before (supposed to be 60, was dropped to accomodate for raise in height from 70 series tire) following me?

so on a whim i checked the heights more precisely this time. the right side was off by 2 mm from the left. sounds small but its a lot. i evened them up so now they are both 3mm above the triple. im going to leave it like this because my next tire will be a 70. so im just going to deal with the geo change until then.

ok now that thats over. i think it was like this before but i never really payed attention. i don't believe i twisted the fork when i evened it out...but i could have and not realized it.

how do i check to see if its straight? really the only thing that would be affected is the way the pads are hitting the rotor am i right?

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i could be wrong but i dont think there is any play in your front axle. so it couldnt twist. it probably the spring inside at a different seating point from the other side? not sure.

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alright i figured it out.

i was just more concerned about the front alignment, about one side of the fork being different/off from the other.

but now that i think about it, if i did twist it, it twisted in the fork housing it self (like jagr said). meaning the top turned but the bottom didn't move, i have conventional "normal" forks, NOT upside down forks of the modern sportbike. (didn't move a lot i was just trying to explain)

talked with a suspension guy i know and he said it should be fine.

all good!

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ok some background first:

when i first bought it, the forks stuck out above the stock clip ons around 3-5mm's (they are supposed to be flush) then i found out it had 70 profile on their from guy before (supposed to be 60, was dropped to accomodate for raise in height from 70 series tire) following me?

so on a whim i checked the heights more precisely this time. the right side was off by 2 mm from the left. sounds small but its a lot. i evened them up so now they are both 3mm above the triple. im going to leave it like this because my next tire will be a 70. so im just going to deal with the geo change until then.

ok now that thats over. i think it was like this before but i never really payed attention. i don't believe i twisted the fork when i evened it out...but i could have and not realized it.

how do i check to see if its straight? really the only thing that would be affected is the way the pads are hitting the rotor am i right?

Lots of things to check here.

I'm assuming that you're checking the distance from the top of the fork tube (or cap) to the top of the upper triple, right? If you are, this distance really doesn't me shit relative to the geometry of the bike. For example, you could have one fork tube 3 feet longer than the other, and as long as the extra 3 feet was sticking out the top of the triple, your geometry is fine. What you should check is the distance from the top of the lower triple to the centerline of the front axle. This is a much more accurate representation of what is going on with the geometry.

If its the same, its entirely possble that you twisted the tube while you were moving things up and down in the triples. No big deal.

If those dimensions are the same, you're

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