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Low Oil Pressure


Radio Flyer1647545514
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So far since I bought my car (92 TSi Talon FWD) I have had minimal problems. I'm sure I know what they are.

Low Oil Pressure gauge at L- Bought Oil switch, have yet to replace. Will it fix it? Could it be bad gauge?

Bad Idle?

Ticking while car is running- I think that is Header Gasket. Any answers for any of these would be appreciated.

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Just bought it. Need to get it checked and tuned. Still idols hard. I dont have proper equipment to do this myself. Main priority is to get it running smooth and payed off. Need a daily drive. My first car. Minor performance parts are coming in spring.

 

Would still like help on the problems.

Rough Idol, any ideas?

Ticking noise- Headers right?

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Ok, well I'll change the Oil Swtich.

As far as Idle goes, mechanic gave me suggestion of removing battery for 10 min, replacing run car at 40 mph max for 10 min. It like lopes. Runs at 1k-1.5k for 10 sec then normal. Take his suggestion?

Oil change, none that I know of, bought off car lot.

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ok you don't reset an engine per say if it has a performance problem it needs repaired

 

1st is the check engine light on?

 

2nd a lopey or surgy idle could be a vacum leak, bad alternator, weak battery, etc.

 

3rd the ticking noise have you checked the oil? is it full? is it clean?

 

I could maybe have a quick look at it on sunday in the early afternoon

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As far as Idle goes, mechanic gave me suggestion of removing battery for 10 min, replacing run car at 40 mph max for 10 min. It like lopes. Runs at 1k-1.5k for 10 sec then normal. Take his suggestion?

Oil change, none that I know of, bought off car lot.

that only works for older gm cars, after Iac replacement.

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Ok, well Oil wise, replacing the Sender Unit tomorrow. After that, oil is fine level wise, I'll get an oil change when I get the chance, I'm not driving it as of now. Idle, I'll get that looked into. I thought it was vacume but... I'll get it all checked out when I get another check.
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As long as you know that there is clean oil in the proper level in the car, then you're heading in the right direction. I had a 92 just like yours for years.

 

First you should join and READ a lot on the DSM forums. Those are

http://www.dsmtalk.com and http://www.dsmtuners.com in case you haven't already done so. There is a lot of good info there, but you're also going to have to sort through some BS.

 

On those websites you will find that DSMs are suseptable to "lifter tick" which is due to a poor design in the hydraulic lifters in the 4G63 motors. You can fix this by replacing the lifters (which is generally more work than it's worth if you're not replacing the cams too) with the updated units from the later model cars. The ticking will be worse when it's cold out here in columbus winters as well.

 

Does your gauge just read no pressure all the time, or does it change and always seem to read lower than you'd like? If it's not reading anything, then chances are that the electrical connector on the end of the sender came off. This is very common and annoying. If you look under your car by the driver's side front tire and see a wire hanging down with a little black clip on it, then that's your problem. If so, let me know and I'll help you get it back on.

 

Does your car idle rough or does the idle jump around like it's surging? If it's just rough, what RPM is it idling at when warm?

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I'm glad to hear that it's just the switch and you're getting it fixed. You'll definately want to read up as much as you can here

 

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=22

 

That should answer a LOT of your questions about your car as well as give you an idea of what you want to do with it in the future.

 

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61643&highlight=%22idle+surge%22

 

That thread covers a checklist of things to cover relating to the infamous idle surge that plagues many DSMs. If you still have the stock intercooler and pipes, I'd start with checking for any boost/vaccum leaks. Do you have a boost gauge on the car (other than the factory one)? If so, what is the vaccum at idle?

 

Let me know if you have any other questions, you can PM me or just reply here.

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theres a wire down by the oil filter they always come off im pretty sure it's for the sending unit but if it's always reading no pressure i'd put money on that being your problem.strip it put a new connector on it and reattach it.

 

I thought you died....

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Here is a question you will be wanting to get answered real soon since you just bought the car. Has the timing belt been changed recently these cars if the timing bely goes the engine has to be rebuilt so you may want to check into that. Just a little advice from someone that has went through this already.
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Here is a question you will be wanting to get answered real soon since you just bought the car. Has the timing belt been changed recently these cars if the timing bely goes the engine has to be rebuilt so you may want to check into that. Just a little advice from someone that has went through this already.

 

 

This is a very good point...while it can be somewhat expensive to have a shop do this consider it much cheaper than rebuilding the motor. If your car has over 60K miles on it (which I'm assuming it does) and you do not know the history of the timing belt, then replace it. Make sure to use a factory replacement not one of the cheap kits you can buy, and replace the tensioners and pulleys as well.

 

or if you don't do this and you munch a motor, you can always buy my spare 6-bolt longblock I have sitting in my garage ;)

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Yeah, as far as the timing belt goes, I'm not driving the car now until the 10th, no license, just I wanted the car so I bought it. Timing belt gets on next paycheck. Still the car surges, he could not fix it. It only surges after driving too. Turbo have anything to do with it? (Wont surge when I first start it or anything)
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