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Fork Oil


copper1k

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I'm thinking on changing my 5wt. fork oil over the winter. The forks dive too easily for my taste. I'm thinking on 2owt. Is this an overkill? Any possible damage to the seals?

Where does everyone get their fluids from? I am doing a complete fluid swap too.

Clutch, brakes, anti-freeze, oil, and forks.

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I'm thinking on changing my 5wt. fork oil over the winter. The forks dive too easily for my taste. I'm thinking on 2owt. Is this an overkill? Any possible damage to the seals?

Where does everyone get their fluids from? I am doing a complete fluid swap too.

Clutch, brakes, anti-freeze, oil, and forks.

You need or should stick with the 5wt. Just add a bit more. 20wt is going to be like riding on solid fork tubes...

It has less to do with weight and more to do with the amount.

I'd suggest a valve kit. I can hook you up with a guy, but honestly, if just for street, Racetech is a good source...

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I'm thinking on changing my 5wt. fork oil over the winter. The forks dive too easily for my taste. I'm thinking on 2owt. Is this an overkill? Any possible damage to the seals?

Where does everyone get their fluids from? I am doing a complete fluid swap too.

Clutch, brakes, anti-freeze, oil, and forks.

If you've not set your suspension properly, you might want to try that, after a fresh change of the proper weight fork oil.

Going up on the weight of the oil is counter productive as the valving is set up for a specific weight of fluid. A higher viscosity oil wont travel through the orifices in the valve at the proper rate.

If the forks are diving too quickly, but not too far your compression needs adjusted. If they're diving too far, but at the proper speed your pre-load and/or spring rate is off. If its diving too far too fast they're both off.

Simple, isn't it?

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is a fork oil change easy as pie?

i mean is it as simple as taking the tubes out of the triples turning them over and dumping the fluid out and refilling to the proper amount with 5w?

Almost, but not quite.

To do it right, you need to completely disassemble the fork and clean them - spotless. A lot of times you'll need special tools to get them broken down without damaging anything. Replacing the seals is a good idea too - you're already in there.

If you've never done it before its probably best to have someone experienced do it.

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is a fork oil change easy as pie?

i mean is it as simple as taking the tubes out of the triples turning them over and dumping the fluid out and refilling to the proper amount with 5w?

Pretty much but you want to pump them as well to get everything out of the valves and then you need to measure accurately when you fill them back up.

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If you've not set your suspension properly, you might want to try that, after a fresh change of the proper weight fork oil.

Going up on the weight of the oil is counter productive as the valving is set up for a specific weight of fluid. A higher viscosity oil wont travel through the orifices in the valve at the proper rate.

If the forks are diving too quickly, but not too far your compression needs adjusted. If they're diving too far, but at the proper speed your pre-load and/or spring rate is off. If its diving too far too fast they're both off.

Simple, isn't it?

Sounds like Todd is on track.

Personal opinion based on personal experience on a borrowed bike.... heavy weight oil in the front forks will throw you over the handlebars if or when you hit a bad bump in the road. Yeah, it hurt, it knocked me out. I flushed it out with correct oil, and replaced it with correct amount of correct oil.

I'd buy some better fork springs, like Progressive Springs or better, and follow the install instructions for fluid type and quantity. I'm not familiar with the newer fork springs available, I just remember Progressive as being a great replacement for stock springs.

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Sounds like Todd is on track.

I'd buy some better fork springs, like Progressive Springs or better, and follow the install instructions for fluid type and quantity. I'm not familiar with the newer fork springs available, I just remember Progressive as being a great replacement for stock springs.

Progressive as a brand isn't really any better than anything else out there. Race-Tech probably has about the best selection/stock for today's sportbikes.

Progressive as a type sucks for a sportbike. You really don't want the spring rate increasing as compression builds, making the spring stiffer. Not bad necessarily on a cruiser, lets say, but shitty for a sportbike.

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Thanks for the info.

I'm glad I didn't jump into it and put 2owt in.

I'll put the 5wt in and set up the suspension again.

Does everyone just get their stuff at IP?

Make sure you get everything squeaky clean this time. You may have some crud hanging out in your valving. Also, depending on your weight, you MAY want to consider a stiffer spring.

Can you adjust preload on the SV-1000 these days? Just guessing, but that may be a big part of your problem.

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Put some gixxer forks on her! :D

Assuming you're being serious...I'm pretty sure the sv1ks have the GSXR 600 forks on them from the factory. Fully adjustable. It's the 650s that are in need of the upgrade to gixxer forks.

(Not to say the GSXR 600 forks are perfect for the sv1k, but better than the stock ones that come on the 650)

Via wiki:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzuki_SV1000

The SV1000 shares many common parts with the SV650, including all bodywork (front fairing, fuel tank and rear plastics/subframe), but the main frame, handlebars, swingarm and forks are different. The front forks and brakes are sourced from the earlier GSXR600.
Edited by JRMMiii
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I would comfirm that you have the correct spring rate using the calculator on Race Tech's website. From everything I have heard, today's sportbikes are set up for 150 pound riders. If you dont, I suggest getting the correct weight and making sure your preload is set right. You can also increase the length of the preload spacer in your forks too if you run out of adjustment. Or try using a taller preload spacer on the stock springs as a cheap way of doing it. But I would stay with the reccomended oil weight no matter what. Like Lizard said, you can also increase the amount of fork oil to stiffen up also. And Forks are easy to rebuild. Just take your time and pay attention on how everything came apart.

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