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safety wire clarification


natedogg624

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from the wera rulebook. curiosity has set in since my bike is bare and empty, this would be the easiest time to do any kind of major safety wiring.

brake torque arms -- are these the brake banjo bolts? if not, what are they? if yes, can you treat them as a normal bolt (ie it wont leak if drilled properly)?

oil lines -- 99 R6, i feel like i dont have exposed oil lines, only the filter/plug/gallery bolts. am i right? is this rule for the older models?

edit: i forgot the oil cooler is exposed w/hoses attached. Do i just safety wire the clamps or both the clamps and the bolt on the top of the cooler?

coolant drains -- i have mine just fed into a catch bottle. also all my main coolant hoses have clamps, do i need to just safety wire the clamps? rtv req'd on the bolts (ex the thermostat)?

speedo and tach cables -- is this just to wrap the wires together or secure them to the fairing stay?

spin on oil filters/filter bolts -- not sure of this one, do they want the actual filter bolt (behind the filter) safety wired?

edit: after a search am i correct assuming this is about the filter and only the filter? nothing else?

any pressure fed lubricant line -- can i get an example description of what this might be?

again 99 R6.

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I can't help you with all of them but it sounds like some of those terms are written to apply to older bikes. "filter bolts" if you have an internal cartridge type oil filter and "brake torque arms" I think would apply to mostly rear drum brakes... edit: plus some old disc setups, too.

Edited by wolfman
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On bikes that have a drum brake in rear (or front), there is a torque arm to keep it from turning. I had one fall off a long time ago, and destroyed the cable and brake drum. It was my first stoppie. I stood it up on the front wheel rather than rear end a car.

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On bikes that have a drum brake in rear (or front), there is a torque arm to keep it from turning. I had one fall off a long time ago, and destroyed the cable and brake drum. It was my first stoppie. I stood it up on the front wheel rather than rear end a car.

:eek: I didn't know you could do stoppies with drum brakes... :lol:

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Simple deal here:

-ANYTHING with oil behind it needs wired. Most engine oil gallery plugs and such can be done and are done by most racers with silicone.

-Header bolts/nuts - wired.

-Exhaust hanger brackets and springs

-Front and rear caliper bolts

-Front pinch bolts on forks

-Oil filter (use band clamp), oil drain, oil fill

-Axles front and rear

-Water pump drain bolts

-Radiator fill cap

-SUGGESTED to wire any coolant line clamps

-IIIIIFFFF you use a master link with clip (not recommended at all), that needs silicone or wired.

Things I wire that are not really covered:

-rearset bolts

-Shifter linkage related bolts

-Quick clips instead of wire on calipers, oil fill, radiator cap, etc.

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we are having a wire party next sat here in cincy! We will be wiring up 3-4 machines already if u want to come watch or bring your bike.

Wera doesnt make you wire the header bolts anymore thank god!

When has that taken place? In any case, it is something you SHOULD do as they can vibrate out/off...

If they changed that, it has been since 2007...

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Simple deal here:

-ANYTHING with oil behind it needs wired. Most engine oil gallery plugs and such can be done and are done by most racers with silicone.

-Header bolts/nuts - wired.

-Exhaust hanger brackets and springs

-Front and rear caliper bolts

what about the banjo bolts? can i treat those bolts as a normal bolt head (they aren't hollow at the head, if i drilled it wouldn't leak)?

-Front pinch bolts on forks

all four points right?

-Oil filter (use band clamp), oil drain, oil fill

what about the oil cooler on front?

-Axles front and rear

silicone if there isn't any available head to drill through right?

-Water pump drain bolts

didn't think about that one thanks!

-Radiator fill cap

-SUGGESTED to wire any coolant line clamps

regarding the clamps, i have the old school kind where its a pressure clamp, so i use pliers to get them off not a screwdriver like band clamps. should i toss these and get all band clamps or just safety wire around the heads?

-IIIIIFFFF you use a master link with clip (not recommended at all), that needs silicone or wired.

Things I wire that are not really covered:

-rearset bolts

-Shifter linkage related bolts

-Quick clips instead of wire on calipers, oil fill, radiator cap, etc.

ill take pics and go through the rule book and come back with any more questions i got. i wish i could go look at your bike brian but most of my questions are behind the fairings...

we are having a wire party next sat here in cincy! We will be wiring up 3-4 machines already if u want to come watch or bring your bike.

Wera doesnt make you wire the header bolts anymore thank god!

thanks for the invite but thats a little far from me...maybe take lots of pics and post up? maybe we can get a sticky...

When has that taken place? In any case, it is something you SHOULD do as they can vibrate out/off...

If they changed that, it has been since 2007...

here is a thread that i searched regarding header bolts brian:

http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?t=177465&highlight=header+bolts

but point taken about doing them anyways.

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I dont know if its in the rules,but i drilled through the heads of all banjo fittings and wired them.

Yes you need to wire all 4 pinch bolts on the forks.

dont know about the oil cooler,but if its got oil lines running from it wire them up too.

As for axles yes you can drill them too it just takes allot of time. The front can be tricky but you can wire the axle over tt the pinch bolts below. The rear you need a key or you have to drill through the side of the nut and wire it on.

If you leave your coolent clamps on then just wire around them and i think that will pass.

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what if our front axle and pinch bolts are recessed in, no way of getting safety wire in there. RTV?

also band clamps: i saw most just wrap the wire around the head and then around the hose/clamp itself and end on the excess metal from the clamp. is this true for all clamps except for the filter?

if you did that process on the filter that just seems silly as it would do nothiing... for the filter do you latch on to the excess metal to a solid point on the bike (frame/engine or otherwise) or the head/screw of the clamp to solid point?

if its the head/screw do you wrap around or drill through?

Edited by natedogg624
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Silicone on pinch bolts won't pass. You need to angle it and take some material off the forks to get the wire to pass through.

The filter is easy. Big band clamp and pull from it to a hard point off the motor to keep it from backing off...

Go up to Pony and look at my 1000. Take notes and pics and you'll be 100% fine.

DON'T wire the axles. Use Baby Pin style clips. That way, you don't have to reuse wire everytime you pull tires...

Again, look at mine...

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No offense, but the trouble you have had on yours? No.

I mean that in as light a manner as possible...:D

trouble taking it apart? no i dont think so...its easy to take stuff apart.

putting it back together would be where the trouble's at.

plus yamaha's are complicated engineering machines with sophistication, every detail is taken into consideration when designing this piece of beautiful artwork.

suzuki's, particularly yellow ones, with a big number 10 on them, are just silly little toys.

i meant that with as much sarcasm as one can take, except for the yamaha part...:D

Edited by natedogg624
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