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The importance of changing 3v spark plugs early


BradyPPC

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There has been some discussion on her before about the Ford 3v spark plugs. Thought I would share an article we have posted in our user forum on our website.

 

If you own a 3v Ford, you already know how well this motor performs over its predecessor. There are a few other things you should know as well.

 

One of the major changes for the 2004+ F150 and 2005+ Mustang was the cylinder head design. The addition of the 3rd valve took up some valuable real estate inside the cylinder head. In order to accommodate this design a longer reach spark plug had to be designed.

 

Most all manufacturers have started calling for 100k mile service intervals on spark plugs. They are using materials like platinum that trade off effeciency vs copper for longevity. Where this becomes to be a problem in the 3v motor is the fact that the new plug design is 2 piece.

 

Stock 3v spark plug on the left.

 

http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Tech/3v%20Spark%20Plug%20Removal/DSC03034.jpg

 

As you can see in the picture above the ground strap is crimped onto the plug beneath the threads. Two things happen over time. The first thing is the aluminum cylinder heads and the steal ground straps start to sieze together (dissimilar metals tend to seize together). Carbon starts to build up in between the cylinder head and ground strap as well, further compounding the problem. Given enough time, carbon can actually build up in between the porcelain and the ground strap causing even more headaches. When these things happen, the spark plugs will tend to want to break upon removal around the crimp.

 

The best case scenario when a plug breaks is for the crimp to break leaving the ground shield in the cylinder head while still allowing the porcelain to be removed. There is a special removal tool that will pull the ground shield out of the cylinder head with relative ease.

 

Ground shield removal tool. You can easily see the carbon build up around the ground shield. This plug had 80k miles on it.

 

http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Tech/3v%20Spark%20Plug%20Removal/DSC03037.jpg

 

The worst case scenario is that the porcelain breaks with the crimp. If this is the case, there is also a special tool made to push the porcelain into the base of the ground shield which will allow the ground shield removal tool to be used. While this usually has a very high success rate it is possible that the ground shield cannot be removed in this manner depending upon how the porcelain actually breaks. If this is the case, cylinder head removal may be the only option. In the Mustang, this is not a major deal, in the F150 the engine will more than likely need to be removed from the vehicle.

 

This picture illustrates a spark plug where the porcelain broke directly above the crimp. You can see the porcelain, threads, and ground shield all seperated from each other.

 

http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Tech/3v%20Spark%20Plug%20Removal/DSC03038.jpg

 

A better shot of the porcelain as well as the center electrode

 

http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Tech/3v%20Spark%20Plug%20Removal/DSC03036.jpg

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When the plug breaks in this manner, a special tool is used to push the porcelain into the base of the ground shield.

 

http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Tech/3v%20Spark%20Plug%20Removal/DSC03030.jpg

 

If you look closely at the ground shield on the right, you will see that the ground strap is actually broke compared to the good plug on the left. In this case the strap broke at the weak point and simply laid over. Had any portion of the strap dropped into the cylinder the head would have had to be removed in to ensure proper removal of all foreign material.

 

http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Tech/3v%20Spark%20Plug%20Removal/DSC03034.jpg

 

So what can you do to help prevent this from happening to you?

 

The first thing is to get the oem spark plugs out as early as possible. Ford actually has a technical service bulletin that outlines in detail proper plug removal techniques to help minimize the risk of breakage. We use this procedure in every vehicle we do with a high success rate.

 

The second thing you can do is be aware of the options you have when it comes to replacement plugs. There are basically 3 spark plug options. Oem Motorcraft and Autolite both make 3v plugs that are of the 2 piece design. Brisk Racing also makes a 1 piece spark with a standard ground electrode that can be gapped as well.

 

Spark plug on the left is an Autolite 2 piece with 20k miles on it, middle plug is a brand new Autolite, and the plug on the right is a 1 piece Brisk plug.

 

http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Tech/3v%20Spark%20Plug%20Removal/DSC02342.jpg

 

We carry both the Autolite and Brisk plugs in stock in the stock heat range as well as cooler heat ranges for forced induction vehicles. The Brisk plug is the preferred plug due to the fact that it will not seize in the head. The Autolite can be used as well with a little antiseize around the crimp to prevent seizing in the head. In either case, it is a good idea to change the plugs out much earlier than the Ford service recommendation.

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you try that trick i told you about?

 

they still seem to do it, but not as bad. last one the porcelain didnt break tho..so the sleeve was easy to remove...

 

Ive done too many of these things. I usually have good luck but sometimes you win and sometimes you lose. The pics above came from a truck with 8k on the clock. It was missing terribly when it came in. We were able to get them all out but # 3 which we had to go to the specialty tools for. Ended up putting Brisk's in it so he doesnt have to worry about it again.

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Ive done too many of these things. I usually have good luck but sometimes you win and sometimes you lose. The pics above came from a truck with 8k on the clock. It was missing terribly when it came in. We were able to get them all out but # 3 which we had to go to the specialty tools for. Ended up putting Brisk's in it so he doesnt have to worry about it again.

yeah, i had to use my new tool like 3 times.. out of 5 sets..so im doing pretty good on the higher mileage ones. had one from a car lot where the guys broke them clean off in the head...

 

one had 75k on it...number 2 got me like last time. fucking bank cools down to fast. i save the easyer ones for last tho.

 

had good luck with the champion ones..since i found they are one piece too. i like the brisks....most dont like the price..but i recommend them over the others.

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They are pricey but not too much worse than the autolites and they are a whole lot cheaper than broken plug removal. I have never been a fan of Champion plugs.

neither have i really, and i really hate sticking them in a ford. but i like to give options. so. and one was just getting a miss fire taking care of to get turned in on its lease..the others seem happy so far. but i start seeing them fail, them im just going to do the brisks from there on out

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