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msd boost master


james95gt

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part #?

 

 

http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedfiles/MSDIgnitioncom/Products/RPM_Timing_Controls/8762_instructions.pdf

 

 

 

its not needed if you tune the car correctly in the chip..unless you plan on running 20 plus psi, you dont need a msd box even. i always set base timing @ 10* and let the tuner find the sweet spot for the timing

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ford has a stock cd ignition with multiple sparks? wow didnt know that

yes, TFI(thick film ignition) system has a multi strike discharge from idle to 2500 rpm. ford did that to help clean up the idle. and if you find yourself getting spark blow out under boost, the accel 300 booster coil system and you can light any thing in the chamber off even with the plug gap ran out too .100.

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Ford used the TFI ignition module (thick film ignition) on vehicles from 1983 through the mid-1990s only. The vehicles that used this module had a conventional hall-effect distributor with a separate coil. The TFI module was located on a flat area on the base of the distributor. On some trucks and cars in the 1990s, the module was located on the radiator support housing within a heat sink. It contains solid state components encased in a thick clear electrolytic film. Its primary purpose is to send the hall-effect signal indicating top dead center on the number one cylinder to the electronic engine control (EEC-IV).

 

The computer then takes the signal and the pulse rate and determines the rpm. The computer sends a signal to the control module when to fire the coil. The control module automatically controls the dwell for sufficient saturation of the coil windings to give the proper spark duration given the rpm in real time without creating undue heat. It also monitors irregular or missed firing counts and will set a code if a failure is imminent.

 

However, this does not always work properly. There have been many problems with this system, stemming from heat saturation, cracking and a myriad of problems after a period of service.

Failure

The modules will fail once they have absorbed too much heat or for case problems. When this happens the vehicle will stall and take a period of time for a successful restart after the heat has dissipated. It can also cause a bad miss on an erratic basis.

Diagnosing the Module

If ignition problems are experienced, the first thing to do is to install a timing light and watch for an irregular spark. If there is, check the plugs. If the plugs are alright, the module should be replaced. They are not expensive, however, they require a small special tool to remove the torx screws in the module housing. If there was no misfire, but the vehicle is hard to start or stalls, the module should be inspected and replaced if found to be faulty.

 

The module should be removed and checked for cracking around the torx screw mounting surface. There should be a thick film of dielectric grease on the back metal side of the module. This layer of grease keeps the heat off of the module. If the module looks OK but the grease is depleted, it should be replaced and the module can be tried again by using the timing light for steady spark.

 

The PIP signal should also be checked. The top wire on the connector is used to check for PIP. Use a voltmeter and look for pulsing with the engine running. The pulsing means the wire from the computer to the ignition control module is good and the computer is working. If it is working, the module is bad. If no pulsing is noted, check the third terminal down for pulses to the computer. It would be wise to replace these modules every 30,000 miles as a preventative maintenance procedure considering the amount of failures and the relatively low cost versus the aggravation should a failure occur. The modules have never been modified so the new will only last as long as the old one.

 

 

 

 

above copied from another site

 

TFI is a hall effect type ignition its cheap and easy to maintain but not very reliable

 

if you have an msd box around it won't hurt to add it in there

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maybe you better learn what a CD ignition is first!

1st it CD means Capacitive Discharge

heres some good reading also http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_discharge_ignition

 

A CD system is designed to overcome the high-rpm limitations of an inductive-discharge system. In a CD system, alternator voltage feeds a high-voltage power supply (varying by manufacturer from 450 to 550 volts) connected to a discharge capacitor. When signaled by the switching device in the distributor, the capacitor applies the 450 to 550 volts to the positive (primary) side of the coil. The coil transforms this voltage into as much as 30,000 volts, which is applied to the spark plug. Think of the CD ignition as having the capacity to instantly fill the glass with water before it is dumped out.

A CD spark is much different from an inductive discharge spark. The arc generated at the plug by a CD system is extremely short in duration, limiting the amount of energy that the spark can deliver. But because a CD system can recharge the capacitor very quickly, it has the capability to deliver multiple sparks at low engine speeds. A multiple-spark CD system like an MSD, Crane, Jacobs, or Mallory can fire a spark plug as many as 8 to 12 times per combustion cycle at idle. Unfortunately, as engine speed increases there is less time for these multiple strikes. By 3,000 rpm, all multiple-strike systems revert back to single-spark ignitions.

from this link http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/45618_inductive_cd_ignitions_basics/index.html

 

 

most all systems are coil constantly charged type as you put it. hence how msd and ford use the same damn hall effect pick up sensor , the double edges on the pick up window. but ford also used a second window for idle (module controls most of it , ecu just controls timing) most info on how it works can be found here

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.html

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