Mr. Jones Posted November 18, 2010 Report Share Posted November 18, 2010 small education note... all dyno graphs cross there, you didn't do/build it any way special. take note, lsx dyno http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/gearhead559/Shop%20stuff%202/JimMurray-1.jpg eaton mach 1 dyno http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=215&pictureid=4545 2.3 turbo ford motor dyno http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=214&pictureid=3415 Waiting for somebody to post something. LOL Bravo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KD93R1 Posted November 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2010 I know about the cris-crossing. I have dyno printouts and mine are not the only ones I've ever seen. I guess I worded that wrong. What I was getting at was how rotaries can be built different (like anything else) especially when it comes to porting. You know like high-high rpm horsepower vrs. low rpm torque. Thats all I meant. I like the feedback though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboRust Posted November 18, 2010 Report Share Posted November 18, 2010 no sweat.. i give you props.. the only thing I know about rotaries is that I never want to know anything about them. lol... btw nice wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rotarded1647545491 Posted November 20, 2010 Report Share Posted November 20, 2010 This is the first I've seen of this thread. Well done! However, The rubber caps you have zip-tied to the four nipples on the inside of the lower intake manifold are useless. Those vacuum tubes do not pass through the intake tract, they just travel though the aluminum between the intake tubes, to the other side. No vacuum leak possibility at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KD93R1 Posted November 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2010 Yeah I know they are not being uitilzed, but you know, the only thing that looks worse than the way I have it is to have it uncapped. I need to remove them dingis nips for good. I think this winter, while the car is down I'll shit can those and some others once and for all. Then I'll take some weight off it too (on the inside). You have some experience w/the rotary I assume???? I appreciate the feedback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KD93R1 Posted November 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2010 http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a473/KD93R1PB/005-8.jpg http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a473/KD93R1PB/004-4.jpg http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a473/KD93R1PB/002-1-1.jpg http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a473/KD93R1PB/002-9.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rotarded1647545491 Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 You have some experience w/the rotary I assume???? Just a little bit. My own race-port & stock twins = 11.83 @ 118 My Half bridge-port, GT35R, and custom manifold = Crushed by unlicensed, uninsured motorist. Almost every FD in Cbus has my work and/or my parts on it. 3 things: What Map sensor are you using? GM 3-bar? I would move the intake air temp sensor out from under the manifold, into the elbow or pipe from IC to Elbow, to avoid heat sinking. Why do you have your boost controlled vacuum tubed y-ed into 2 lines? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KD93R1 Posted November 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 (edited) I am running a new GM 3-bar, do you have another idea on that? Never thought about relocating the ATS but that just sounds right w/o me even thinking about it. So what causes the heatsink, just the fact that its mounted to a large pc. that can soak up some heat? Would it effect the PFC at all? Doesnt the PFC need to know what the air temp going in the LIM is or am I not understanding. Something I need to learn more about as well as laptop tuning and dyno tuning. I dont have much experience at all w/those platforms but I am at that point no doubt. Which do you recommend for that AIS elbow or pipe? Or is it just a matter of mounting? I just got back from a little ride and my air temp was 19c. according to my PFC. Third, the vac line coming from the intercooler pipe to boost solenoid. The vac line coming off the y there runs to the actuator side of my wastegate. Is this wrong? I am gonna get rid of the y there and add a second nipple on the intercooler pipe this week. Just dont like those t's and y's ya know. I think its awesome to get to talk to someone different who knows whats up. I know alot but by no means do I know it all. Suggestions welcome. Edited November 22, 2010 by KD93R1 Spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twistedrx7 Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 I would go with the GM sensor(open element) rather than the Rotary sensor (AIT). You can do that or shave down your sensor so the reaction time is faster. The two places you can mount the new AIT is right after the IC or in the elbow. You will not heat soak it as much in either place. Yes, your PFC will read the correct temp much better after relocating it. If you notice it takes a while for the temp to change on it. There is nothing wrong with using the gm 3 bar just as long as you have that selected in the PFC setting. Hopefully you have a datalogit, if not it isnt too hard to change with the controller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KD93R1 Posted November 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 I think I'll move that sensor this weekend. I thought the gm 3 bar was ok. I need a datalogit. I have Zavier from the RX7 Store do all my datalogit stuff. Are you planning to go to any events or anything next spring/summer? We oughta all hook up somewhere one night, or maybe you guys already do? How much boost do you usually run? Are you using any AUX INJ at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RX-7 Addict Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 Nice looking build. What turbo are you putting on there? sorry if i missed that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KD93R1 Posted November 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 I did this build last winter. Port/RA seals, fuel system, and GT35R. I was hesitant to go single turbo for years. I just got to where my twins had brought me to my limit so I did er up and never looked back. Car is night and day from where it was, I'm sure you know what I mean. Nice to hear from you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twistedrx7 Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 I think I'll move that sensor this weekend. I thought the gm 3 bar was ok. I need a datalogit. I have Zavier from the RX7 Store do all my datalogit stuff. Are you planning to go to any events or anything next spring/summer? We oughta all hook up somewhere one night, or maybe you guys already do? How much boost do you usually run? Are you using any AUX INJ at all? Cars and Coffee usually on saturdays not sure if its still going on. I am using tied down from working on my house all the time. The car has taken a back seat. basically in a nut shell next year late spring it should be done. bw 372r full bridge and redo the fuel system. KG Fuel system switching to CJ. and hooking up meth/water injec on racegas. right now its non seq twins at 16-17 psi with full bridge. 1680cc and 850cc injec and tec3r standalone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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