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My rotary build


KD93R1

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small education note... all dyno graphs cross there, you didn't do/build it any way special.

 

take note,

lsx dyno

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/gearhead559/Shop%20stuff%202/JimMurray-1.jpg

eaton mach 1 dyno

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=215&pictureid=4545

2.3 turbo ford motor dyno

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=214&pictureid=3415

 

 

Waiting for somebody to post something.

 

LOL

Bravo

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I know about the cris-crossing. I have dyno printouts and mine are not the only ones I've ever seen. I guess I worded that wrong. What I was getting at was how rotaries can be built different (like anything else) especially when it comes to porting. You know like high-high rpm horsepower vrs. low rpm torque. Thats all I meant.

 

I like the feedback though.

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This is the first I've seen of this thread. Well done!

 

However, The rubber caps you have zip-tied to the four nipples on the inside of the lower intake manifold are useless. Those vacuum tubes do not pass through the intake tract, they just travel though the aluminum between the intake tubes, to the other side. No vacuum leak possibility at all.

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Yeah I know they are not being uitilzed, but you know, the only thing that looks worse than the way I have it is to have it uncapped. I need to remove them dingis nips for good. I think this winter, while the car is down I'll shit can those and some others once and for all. Then I'll take some weight off it too (on the inside). You have some experience w/the rotary I assume????

 

I appreciate the feedback.

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http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a473/KD93R1PB/005-8.jpg

 

http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a473/KD93R1PB/004-4.jpg

 

http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a473/KD93R1PB/002-1-1.jpg

 

http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a473/KD93R1PB/002-9.jpg

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You have some experience w/the rotary I assume????

 

Just a little bit.

 

My own race-port & stock twins = 11.83 @ 118

 

My Half bridge-port, GT35R, and custom manifold = Crushed by unlicensed, uninsured motorist.

 

Almost every FD in Cbus has my work and/or my parts on it.

 

3 things:

 

What Map sensor are you using? GM 3-bar?

 

I would move the intake air temp sensor out from under the manifold, into the elbow or pipe from IC to Elbow, to avoid heat sinking.

 

Why do you have your boost controlled vacuum tubed y-ed into 2 lines?

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I am running a new GM 3-bar, do you have another idea on that?

 

Never thought about relocating the ATS but that just sounds right w/o me even thinking about it. So what causes the heatsink, just the fact that its mounted to a large pc. that can soak up some heat? Would it effect the PFC at all? Doesnt the PFC need to know what the air temp going in the LIM is or

am I not understanding. Something I need to learn more about as well as laptop tuning and dyno tuning. I dont have much experience at all w/those platforms but I am at that point no doubt.

 

Which do you recommend for that AIS elbow or pipe? Or is it just a matter of mounting? I just got back from a little ride and my air temp was 19c. according to my PFC.

 

Third, the vac line coming from the intercooler pipe to boost solenoid. The vac line coming off the y there runs to the actuator side of my wastegate.

Is this wrong? I am gonna get rid of the y there and add a second nipple on the intercooler pipe this week. Just dont like those t's and y's ya know.

 

I think its awesome to get to talk to someone different who knows whats up. I know alot but by no means do I know it all.

 

Suggestions welcome.

Edited by KD93R1
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I would go with the GM sensor(open element) rather than the Rotary sensor (AIT). You can do that or shave down your sensor so the reaction time is faster. The two places you can mount the new AIT is right after the IC or in the elbow. You will not heat soak it as much in either place.

Yes, your PFC will read the correct temp much better after relocating it. If you notice it takes a while for the temp to change on it.

There is nothing wrong with using the gm 3 bar just as long as you have that selected in the PFC setting. Hopefully you have a datalogit, if not it isnt too hard to change with the controller.

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I think I'll move that sensor this weekend. I thought the gm 3 bar was ok.

I need a datalogit. I have Zavier from the RX7 Store do all my datalogit stuff.

 

Are you planning to go to any events or anything next spring/summer?

 

We oughta all hook up somewhere one night, or maybe you guys already do?

 

How much boost do you usually run? Are you using any AUX INJ at all?

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I did this build last winter. Port/RA seals, fuel system, and GT35R. I was hesitant to go single turbo for years. I just got to where my twins had brought me to my limit so I did er up and never looked back. Car is night and day from where it was, I'm sure you know what I mean.

 

Nice to hear from you.

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I think I'll move that sensor this weekend. I thought the gm 3 bar was ok.

I need a datalogit. I have Zavier from the RX7 Store do all my datalogit stuff.

 

Are you planning to go to any events or anything next spring/summer?

 

We oughta all hook up somewhere one night, or maybe you guys already do?

 

How much boost do you usually run? Are you using any AUX INJ at all?

 

Cars and Coffee usually on saturdays not sure if its still going on. I am using tied down from working on my house all the time. The car has taken a back seat. basically in a nut shell next year late spring it should be done. bw 372r full bridge and redo the fuel system. KG Fuel system switching to CJ. and hooking up meth/water injec on racegas.

 

right now its non seq twins at 16-17 psi with full bridge. 1680cc and 850cc injec and tec3r standalone.

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