chrisknight Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 I just changed the oil in my R6 today. This weather is killing me! I need rear turn signals to ride... I'm thinking of getting the Hotbodies under tail. Good? Bad?Anyway...My opinion is that oil does not go bad with age, it goes bad under compression/use. Think about it... If I change my oil fresh in the fall and put my bike away, It should be good to go in the spring. Right? What difference is it if the oil is sitting in my engine unused/fresh, or sitting in the jug at the parts store unused/fresh?Comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brennan Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 oil breaks down over time.i'm not sure if it's cause it's sealed in a jug that it stays good, or what.i'm kinda in the same boat as you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr600f3 Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 oil sitting in your engine can get water in it due to condensation over the months.BUt i dont think that would make much of a difference or would hurt anything. id say changing your oil in the fall or spring is more of a personal prefrence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 Oil sitting on the shelf and sealed can go bad also. It does have a "shelf" life.http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html If your unopened containers of engine oil are more than three years old, read the labels to make sure they meet the latest industry standards. If they do meet the current standards, you might want to take the extra precaution of obtaining oil analysis before using them. An oil analysis will check for key properties of the oil and ensure that it still meets the original manufacturing specs. Of course the cost of getting an analysis done on old oil is probably going to outweigh going and buying fresh stuff. So it's a double-edged sword. As a general rule, the simpler the oil formulation, the longer the shelf life. The following is a guideline under protected conditions: Product Shelf Life Base Oils, Process Oils 3 years Hydraulic Oils, Compressor Oils, General Purpose Lubricating Oils 2 yearsEngine Oils and Transmission Oils 3 years Industrial and Automotive Gear Oils 2 years Metal Working and Cutting Oils 1 year The following are signs of storage instability in a lubricant:Settling out of the additives as a gel or sticky liquidFloc or hazePrecipitates/solid materialColour change or haziness Water contamination in a lubricant can be detected by a "milky" appearance of the product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
that dude Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 i change the oil in my boat and bike in the fall..it would be fucking retarded to change it again now...as far as the hotbodies i hear many neagative comments about fitment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conn-e-rot Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 I have not heard anything good about the hotbodies poor fitting, the lights are not bright barely visible in the daylight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
that dude Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 stay away from hotbodies as mentioned before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AOW Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 (edited) I change my oil per MOCO specs and never before, sometimes later, but never before. Those fuk'n engineers have no lives so I take their calculations to heart. Edited March 11, 2009 by AOW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benyen Soljax Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 idk about the newer r6's, but i know mine pretty much had an undertail stock, you just had to remove the mud guard and buy a plate holder then get the integrated tail. dunno if the newer ones are much diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brennan Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 idk about the newer r6's, but i know mine pretty much had an undertail stock, you just had to remove the mud guard and buy a plate holder then get the integrated tail. dunno if the newer ones are much diff.i think that's what was done to mine.i made my own bracket from some metal lying around in the garage.i never cared to install a plate light though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
that dude Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 ^^easy way to get a ticket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisknight Posted March 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 So what are others doing? The stock tail hangs off the back of the bike, & looks bad.Anyone got any links to some options? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICEMAN Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 i have an 06 R6 50th ann. I put the Clear Alternatives Integrated Taillight on it, and will be cutting a piece of stainless, use the four holes underneathe and one bend to the plate. and you can buy a single LED to stick on the tail that shines down for a plate. thats the cheapest. or you can buy a piece thats already cut, and has the R6 logo on it, and comes with an LED, but its like 60 bucks i think. itll be 20 bucks to make your own. im even debating on making a cardboard mockup and making one out of fiberglass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benyen Soljax Posted March 12, 2009 Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 i have an 06 R6 50th ann. I put the Clear Alternatives Integrated Taillight on it, and will be cutting a piece of stainless, use the four holes underneathe and one bend to the plate. and you can buy a single LED to stick on the tail that shines down for a plate. thats the cheapest. or you can buy a piece thats already cut, and has the R6 logo on it, and comes with an LED, but its like 60 bucks i think. itll be 20 bucks to make your own. im even debating on making a cardboard mockup and making one out of fiberglass.dont know why anyone would buy some hotbodies shit for an r6 when you can do this for a few $ and a trip to home depot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisknight Posted March 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 I thought about using Clear Alternatives, I don't really like them though. The turn signals are IN the tail (break) light. In my opinion, its hard for others to see and you still leave the stock tail mounting holes exposed. It looks bad. I remember riding behind a guy in Delaware that has these. He pulled his break and left turn signal at the same time and I couldn't tell what the hell I was looking at. The right side of the break light was blinking red (like stop) and the left side was blinking yellow (like turn) but they were both "swirling" LED patterns that took me a second or 2 to figure out what was going on.Hotbodies leaves the break light in place(as a single function), and has clear, distinguished rear left and right turn signals. (Getting rid of the stock signals)My only concern with hotbodies is: 1. Does the paint match? Every picture I see has a shadow under the tail so you cant tell. 2. What the heck do you do with your plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
that dude Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 bro- like everyone has told you, stay away from hotbodies..my buddy has one and it sucks ass for fittment..the color is fine in yellow i will say that..why not jusy buy a nicemudflap eliminator then you still can use your stock signals and light Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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