FocusDave01 Posted April 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 wow didnt realize there was such a debate on types of oil to use lol, what happened to jsut throwin some motorcycle oil in lol but thanks for all the tips and advice its good to know these things tho about the different oils, when it comes timer to change (which its got 7300 now service manager said im good to 12) so when i hit 12 ill start worrying aboiut oils Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosmo Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 There are so many mistakes here, I don't know what to say...Do what JRMIII says, and use JASO MA/MB/MA1/MA2 rated oil.Do use whatever your owner's manual or service manual says to use.JASO MA is the standard for motorcycle oil.JASO MB is for engines with a dry clutch, not wet clutch.JASO MB is for light duty engines.JASO MA1 and MA2 are for newer bikes with catalytic converters.JASO MA1 has some friction modifiers making it easier to shift, but might make the clutch slip on some bikes. Yamaha appears to be recommending JASO MA1 for some of it's newer bikes, to make them easier to shift.JASO MA2 is the newer rating for the older JASO MA rating.So basically almost every bike needs to be using the JASO MA or MA2 oil.Why: Friction modifiers in oils newer than the old SG rating can cause motorcycle wet clutches to slip. So JASO ratings were created. Good SG basic oil is perfectly ok to use in older design engines, but it's getting hard to find. JASO MA oil can have additive content too high for catalytic converters on the newer bikes, so JASO MA1 and MA2 were created.Note that Harley recommends Harley oil, and if you can't find it, they recommend Rotella engine oil as an acceptable substitute. (engines with a dry clutch, not a wet clutch)Rotella engine oil is not recommended by Rotella for aircraft engines.Rotella engine oil does not have a recommendation by Rotella for or against motorcycle engines.Because of the changes in both car and motorcycle engine designs, there are many engine oils that will create an abnormal amount of sulfated ash in the engine oil. Sulfated ash is sludge. It looks like little chunks of carbon, but it's much softer than carbon deposits. Watch for it, and if you see it, you need to change the type of oil you are using.Yes......and here is the encyclopedia again.....rep points for ya for the great post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conn-e-rot Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 So when is it safe to switch to full synthetic? One dealer told me 1000 miles another said 2500 big difference there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 For the record:There are multiple types of Rotella oil.Multigrade 10W-30 and 15W-40 Synthetic 5W-40 API CJ -4 Technology Synthetic 5W-40 Synthetic-Blend http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/leftnavs/zzz_lhn2_0_0.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/dir_products08.htmlShell Rotella T multigrade is a basic mineral based truck and car oil. It meets the API CI-4 PLUS rating for diesel engines. Shell Rotella T Synthetic API CJ-4 Technology is a "full synthetic" truck and car oil. It meets the API CJ-4 and the SM ratings.Shell Rotella T Synthetic is a "full synthetic" truck and car oil. It meets the API CI-4 PLUS and the SH ratings.Shell Rotella SB Synthetic-Blend is a synthetic blend truck and car oil. It has no ratings on the Shell Rotella website. It meets "the warranty and service requirements of virtually all four-stroke cycle diesel and many gasoline engine manufacturers".So it looks like two types could be ok (the two full synthetics), and the other types are not. Of the two types that are ok, the rumor is... that they meet the JASO MA requirement, but are not advertised that way, or marked for it.However, posts in various motorcycle-related forums cite e-mail confirmation from Shell that Rotella 15W-40 and 5W-40 CJ-4 has been tested and shown to meet the JASO-MA friction test. The belief is that the new CJ-4 oil does in fact meet JASO-MA, but the packaging does not carry the certification, nor does Shell advertise it as complying with JASO-MA.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_Rotella_TThe concept is, that Rotella for trucks does not need the car type additives, and doesn't use them. That might put it in the JASO-MA group. The ratings above SG do not require disclosure of what additives are used, making all ratings above SG hard to figure out what it is. Which is one reason why JASO ratings were created.The winner is Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 (API CJ-4 Technology optional) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yotaman88210 Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 wow didnt realize there was such a debate on types of oil to use lol, what happened to jsut throwin some motorcycle oil in lol but thanks for all the tips and advice its good to know these things tho about the different oils, when it comes timer to change (which its got 7300 now service manager said im good to 12) so when i hit 12 ill start worrying aboiut oilsGood for 5k miles... um I would change it after 3k. Especially if you are using non-synthetic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastnotch2002 Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 Ive always ran Amsoil 10w40 full syn after break in since it came out....very good oil and no problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 So even tho my bike has a fresh oil change, I was talking to the service manager and asked him what kind of oil they use when they do tune-ups and what not. He says just normal motorcylce oil. I asked him why ot synthetic and he stated normal oil is fine and synthetic is even sometimes bad on bike motors, clutches. Now coming from a car world synthetic oil is a must for any decent sports car, are bikes that different to where synthetic oil is no different than normal oil? I find it odd that synthetic oil can harm a motorcycle engine..any thoughts on this matter?I just read this topic...One thing to consider, not all car companies suggest synthetic. I was told by the Infiniti dealer (Two different ones, actually) that Nissan doesn't suggest using Full Synthetic in the G35 coupes. Why I have no idea and neither did they, but I use Mobil1 in ours and not sure the issues if i do... It's just what they told me...As far as bikes go? Believe what you want, but in racing, we use full synthetic all the time. We have never had issues relating to oil. We've had bottom ends with over 60 hours on them and no blueing or such that indicated the oil was an issue...Currently, I use Motul 300V (I think that's the number - looks like antifreeze!!). Stuff is slicker than the Man Butter Flounder uses on his toast... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 Go synth...... expensive but Mobil1 Racing 4T is by far the bestIn your opinion...Again, multiple oils will be suggested and none are going to be proven better or worse...All are pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 So when is it safe to switch to full synthetic? One dealer told me 1000 miles another said 2500 big difference there.We would take a fresh complete engine build and run her on traditional oil from Kawasaki (as an example) through the course of Saturday through the practices. On Sunday, we'd run the same oil through the morning practice and drain it and run full synthetic at noon through the rest of the day and through the season.1000 miles is more than enough time to be able to switch...BUT, my suggestion is to listen to your dealer. IF something goes wrong, you are covered... Do as they say and you'll be safe... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conn-e-rot Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 For you that are running full synthetic do you notice a lot of clutch slipping? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
that dude Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 none Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disclaimer Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 I used to have an issue with clutch slippage, but I just run it without oil now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conn-e-rot Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 Now why didn't I think of that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conn-e-rot Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 I was asking because on another board they were saying they experience a lot of slippage with synthetic in the 14. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warpspeed Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 castrol 10w40 & wix oil filters for all my vehicles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conn-e-rot Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 I run mobil 1 in everything I own or have owned and that's what I plan on running in my bike. I have a 2000 ford exploder with 170k+ and it runs like a top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
that dude Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 i have a honda civic work car that i beat the piss out of and has 198K, only tires brakes 1 battery and a timing belt...i run wal mart oil in the sucka..cant kill the damn thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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