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THE COLT v2.0


coltboostin

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Steve Wilson and Chris Wright at Pro Car in Akron did the tuning this year on my car. I do need to turn the wick up, however since I blew the damn thing up its gonna be a minute before that happens haha.

 

4k to go 10s, who needs to spend 80k on a GTR?

 

As I am an inch away from pulling the trigger on a dirty cheap GTR :no: Salvage title....so I am waiting on the "research."

 

Different car though-really better in every way. BUT to me, it would be a nice DD, never a race car. The way I approach this hobby is just that- its just a hobby. I like going fast-and I am a cheap bastard. So my build usually follow suit.

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Updated pics- 7 year old 22 inch slicks-look at the rot!!

 

10.8@140

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/hefay69/Picture069.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/hefay69/Picture041-1.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/hefay69/Picture051.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/hefay69/Picture044-1.jpg

 

 

Updated Engine Bay shot......

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who needs to spend 80k on a GTR?

 

while its absolutely amazing what can be done when someone knows a platform/engine combo, and has the fabrication skills he has, and has a ton of parts laying around-----if you have to ask the above question, you just don't get it.

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No I get it, I am a fan of the GTR. I was being a smartass in reference to an argument that OP was involved with in another thread.

 

no worries. it is definitely impressive what someone with skill can do with so little. i'd love to rock one of these cars some day. total sleeper

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  • 1 month later...

Well that did not last long.

 

Considering what Vlad, Boz, and Jimmy are bringing to the table, I have to bring more. "Digs into box of goodies..."

 

New Goals for 2013-HP record for Eagle Rods (LOL).

 

Minimums-700 dynojet HP. 150 traps

Goal 800 Dynojet HP-160 traps, 9.9999

 

Stay tuned...:ugh:

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On an Eagle H beam? He has GRP AL rods....

 

He went aluminum after he broke 4 sets of h-beams lol. I'm not sure which rod bolt he was using though.

 

"Okay first I made 760 WHP with horrible wheel spin I was running 4 strap on the dyno, we lowered the pressure insted of 20 psi went to 10 psi made 780 and again with horrible wheel spin this is with MH 24.5X8.5X15 drag radial slicksThen I put another side two strap the car made 866WHP 18 degree of timing over 40 psi and before reaching 8000 rpm I broke my mainly connecting*rod."

 

http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64659&highlight=rod+breaking

 

Edit: I guess he actually made 873 on a 7175.

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  • 1 month later...

UPDATE.

 

After some more hooliganry-I left the car at the Grassroots compound so we could toss a LSD insert int he trans. He calls me a week later.

 

"Car was running, just died-sounds like it has no compression! I was just moving it in the dirveway!"

 

I go over, have a beer, and determined that something is indeed very wrong-tow it home.

 

Upon inspection, the timing had jumped a full 8 teeth! Yikes! I set it back up, and spun it by hand. No contact. Cranked over the motor with no fuel, has compression, but it sounds like a dead hole. Test and find 5 psi in #1. Nothing like breaking **** doing nothing. Take head off-exhaust valves slightly bent.

 

Winter is good for something-down time. So I put a head together with likely more work than any other head I have done-even tried some experimental port work I have never done before. If this head does not flow a ton of air at low boost levels, I will never do this much work to a head again!! Pics coming soon.

 

NOTE-I found the tensioner on the car looks like it may be non OEM. All OEM tensioners I have seen have 3 numbers cast into the tension- this does not, and appeared to be of a different casting. After some "testing"- I am 909% sure it is bad. Testing consisted of several compression cycles-a rust OEM tensioner stayed stiff at full extension, while the "new" assumed aftermarket has about an 1/8 inch of axial free play.

 

After seeing this-I dont think I would ever put a non OEM tensioner on a car again.

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I'm sure you will get it back together way better than before. We're pretty much on the same boat. After taking two weeks off and coming back to the car, I decided the work I had done wasn't worth a shit and should go in the trash. There is a big difference between getting close and having it done right. So the plans are 8.8 rear end, rebuild the 2jz, and send the rear off to get welded correctly.
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I'm sure you will get it back together way better than before. We're pretty much on the same boat. After taking two weeks off and coming back to the car, I decided the work I had done wasn't worth a shit and should go in the trash. There is a big difference between getting close and having it done right. So the plans are 8.8 rear end, rebuild the 2jz, and send the rear off to get welded correctly.

 

Boom! :)

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http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/PicsJan2013007.jpg

 

 

OEM Vs China. The Rusty OEM tested good and is going back on the car-DO NOT RUN NON OEM!

 

 

Headwork

 

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/PicsJan2013010.jpg

 

Zip Tie Racing port job

 

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/PicsJan2013009.jpg

 

completely deshrouded. Will flow well at very low lift

 

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/PicsJan2013008.jpg

 

Evo8 Valve Springs. Shimmed-and will handle 11mm lift @ 9000rpm. :)

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  • 4 weeks later...

Trans refreshed to Zip Tie/Rivera racing specs-Old school Slow boy LSD installed. Trans and axles in-Stock ported IM in, TB modded- Exhaust Manifold/6262 back on. Car should fire again this weekend to be dialed in with the new cams. I set the car up to be a test pig for a current intake manifold test. The Stock TB is ported to 70mm, and a 70mm S90 is ready to go. What the test looks like thus far

 

Stock IM, stock TB, 2.5 pipe. Then 3inch cold side, then 70mm TB and 3inch pipe

 

JMF DRAG with stock TB and 2.5, then 70mm, then 70+3inch pipe

 

Same with a Venom.

 

I have been approached to do other manifolds as well, but my time and patience level will be the deciding factor. I have not seen a viable test by a non bias party for current intake manifolds on the market, or the much debated 2.5 vs. 3inch cold side pipe. Car will be set up at 30psi for all test-and if I have the 67mm back I will do the test with a 6766.

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I run Forced Induction Sport, dont have the bankroll to compete with the likes of Rob Morse and some of the others in SFWD honestly. Not very fun stepping into the ring knowing you're going to lose already haha. His car goes 8.7's, totally different class of cars. FIS is the most competative class though in my oipnion, it has he biggest racer count out of the turbo classes. Hell last year a 10.8 sohc Honda won the class over an evo that has gone 9s in the past.
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