Switching coolant?

[ousley99]

I can't believe nobody has even mentioned combustion temp! U have a big ass engine burning 91 octane, making the combustion temp extremely hot, therfore making the entire bike hot! In my CR 125 I have 185 pounds of compression on a bike that comes stock w 115..we have to run 114 octane because it burns almost 100 degrees cooler. Were talkn about a dirtbike ppl, not a racebike. 8 degrees is great from WW, but internaly lowering the temp almost 80-100 is much better.

[street pilot]

Hahaha.....you learn everyday till your day ends.....great find....never came across, rep points for street pilot.......just a small experimental advice.....

Check the pH of the propylene glycol based coolants after a year if they are over 7.0 they are good as they say. If it's below that......they are shit and eat your engine up........

Sierra is the same company as Peak, good stuff. You're more likely to have corrosion introduced by adding tap water, rain, remaining water flush, etc. than a breakdown of the product if you are keeping regular maintenance intervals.

The only over-priced coolant I would consider is a non-aqueous propyleneglycol (http://www.evanscooling.com/main27.htm) but I've never had the need. Just keep in mind that Engine Ice (homeade or not) is mixed with de-ionized water, so if it is boiling over you may need to move to a pure coolant.

[Kosmo]

^^^^he knows...kudos

[kawipilot]

I run distilled + wetter all summer ( with excellent cooling performance) , but I drain my cooling systen in the fall, so I can yank my radiator, soak it in simple green and get the 2/3 pound of rehydrated bug carcasses out of it. It makes a difference come next summer. Removing the radiator also facilitates checking the tourque on the exhaust header fasteners.