MattKatz Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 How do I set up my forks for a heavier rider such as myself.I am 245lbs.....and my front end feels like a sponge.Also....Rear Shock....Should I be adjusting this for my weight as well?I am tired of my bike not riding like I know it should.I have never set a bike up for my weight....so lets do this like your teaching me my ABC's. Bike is an '06 Honda 600RR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattKatz Posted May 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 Ok...Lets rephrase this....Let's work with what I have as I am not dropping a bunch of loot on the suspension right now.I have been riding it like this for two years....never touched anything on it...so lets make it "Better".Hows that....?I would love to re-do the suspension...but I have other "Toy" Priorities right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattKatz Posted May 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 And that link is dead..nothing there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty 996 Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 i know guy who can do your suspension ,but you will have to come to columbus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FocusDave01 Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 i noticed that the rear spring seems adjustable atleast on my bike... but i could be wrong... mine is stiff as hell but thats the way it came. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattKatz Posted May 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 i know guy who can do your suspension ,but you will have to come to columbus I kind of want to learn to do it myself....It seriously cannot be that hard.I am a hands on kind of guy.....I know my way around a garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattKatz Posted May 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 You aren't going to be able to set your sag by yourself. You have to be on the bike when the measurements are being recorded. I know that...but It doesnt mean I have to pay someone to do it....Thats what friends are for.Wish I had some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FocusDave01 Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 I know that...but It doesnt mean I have to pay someone to do it....Thats what friends are for.Wish I had some./e-hug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaNick Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 I weighed 225 when I first got my ZX6r, and rode it until 270lbs when I sold it. I had it VERY STIFF by the end. I had maybe 2-4 lines showing on my forks and it fully clicked out on top; same with the rear shock.Now at 300lbs, my 14 as soon as I bought it, I got my wrench and flathead out and did the same.I had the zx6r on the track and it railed, but it needed SAG set, but I never got that done.My 14 feels great, but sometime I'd like to set my SAG. I dialed it in a little bit with a buddy of mine, but it was hard with no spanner wrench that would fit mine, so I had to buy a certain one from drag specialties and I have yet to use it yet. I just haven't gotten around to setting the sag on my 14 yet. I'll have my 14 at Mid-Ohio next summer having some fun and I can't wait! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaNick Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 I say with your weight Matt, adjust the forks with 1 or 2 lines showing on both sides for preload. Then tighten your rebound with a flathead screwdriver maybe full or 1 click back from full. At the bottom of your forks adjust the compression dampening adjuster with your flat head screwdriver full or a few clicks from full until it feels right to you.Rear shock get your flathead and adjust your compression dampening(on top) about 2-3 clicks from full in. Remember on all of these it increases to the right and decreases to the left. Just like screwing in a bolt. Same on rebound (bottom).Just try those out man and work from there playing with it. I mess for mine for a while when I first get a bike, writing all I've tried down and trying more until I like what I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaNick Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 When you can after all of that, set your SAG when you have 3 people to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashweights Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 (edited) just did this yesterday afternoon. to set the sag (basically ripped from 101 Sportbike Performance Projects):Measure from the trtiple clamp to the end of the black portion of the fork tube while having two friends hold the bars so the front tire is off the ground (i guess you could use a forklift stand here). This is L1, or where your suspension tops out.Sit on the bike in riding position with gear, have your friends press down on the bars until the suspension bottoms out then let the bike come back up until the suspension rests on it's own. Measure distance again. this is L2.Sitting on the bike, have them lift the front tire off the ground again then let the suspension come to rest again. this is L3.Use L1 - (L2+L3)/2 = static sag. You want this value between 1.2 - 1.5mm for street.Repeat for the rear but measure from the rear axle to a piece of tape on the tail DIRECTLY above the axle. Increase the preload to drop the value, decrease preload to raise the value.To see is if the spring rate is off (after properly setting static sag), lift the bike off the ground in the front and measure the change from rest of the front fork decompression (should be ~ 5mm). I believe this is called "free sag."Finally, set your compression/rebound to stock settings (should be available on sportrider.com) then set the rebound so after fully compressing the springs by pressing down on the center of the TT for front (and center of seat for rear) and seeing if the bike returns to it's original position. If so adjust the rebound dampening until the rebound takes approximately 1 full second to return to the original position (this is all without you on the bike).there's your starting settings. the rebound and compression will have to be fine-tuned gradually as you determine how small changes in compression/rebound from this starting point affect handling for you on the bike.Have fun! Edited May 19, 2009 by smashweights Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obesityrules Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 video link for setting saghttp://www.onthethrottle.com/content/view/73/40/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 video link for setting saghttp://www.onthethrottle.com/content/view/73/40/This is closest to what we typically do. We use MMs vs. Inches... Also, try and find a hard point on the frame's subframe or similar to measure to vs. the bodywork. Bodywork - especially track plastic - can move and change the measurement. For the front, a zip tye works great to measure with. OTT is a better choice for an example. Not sure what the whole L2, L3 thing is as lifting the bike with rider on board is a pretty sketchy proposition...We use three people at the track. Rider, holder, and measurement guy. Two guys will be used to lift the bike (w/o rider) and get a measurement. Next, rider gets on, holder holds the bike in the upright position and measurement guy, well... Measures!Easy as pie. I think I did a write-up, but will have to look for it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shittygsxr Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 This is closest to what we typically do. We use MMs vs. Inches... Also, try and find a hard point on the frame's subframe or similar to measure to vs. the bodywork. Bodywork - especially track plastic - can move and change the measurement. For the front, a zip tye works great to measure with. OTT is a better choice for an example. Not sure what the whole L2, L3 thing is as lifting the bike with rider on board is a pretty sketchy proposition...We use three people at the track. Rider, holder, and measurement guy. Two guys will be used to lift the bike (w/o rider) and get a measurement. Next, rider gets on, holder holds the bike in the upright position and measurement guy, well... Measures!Easy as pie. I think I did a write-up, but will have to look for it...I think they are trying to measure stiction. The settling point of the suspension from extended to resting and compressed to resting is usually different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walther_gsp Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 Use L1 - (L2+L3)/2 = static sag. You want this value between 1.2 - 1.5mm for street. sag."Did you mean Inches? Sag is usually 25-45mm depending on who you ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EagleCock Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 go see dustin...he worked out mine last summer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaNick Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 He didn't ask for setting SAG. He just asked for preload and shit. That just takes a wrench and a flathead screwdriver.SAG is a different topic, his preload, compression, and rebound can be set by himself in minutes.Some A.D.D up in here.. :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kip Drordy Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 He didn't ask for setting SAG. He just asked for preload and shit. That just takes a wrench and a flathead screwdriver.SAG is a different topic, his preload, compression, and rebound can be set by himself in minutes.Some A.D.D up in here.. :lol:How do I set up my forks for a heavier rider such as myself.I am 245lbs.....and my front end feels like a sponge.Also....Rear Shock....Should I be adjusting this for my weight as well?I am tired of my bike not riding like I know it should.I have never set a bike up for my weight....so lets do this like your teaching me my ABC's. Bike is an '06 Honda 600RRThus sag at the very least.Some lack of reading comprehension up in here...:lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaNick Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 (edited) Wrench and Screwdriver and stiffening up the suspension for sure like I stated above. SAG is not a 1 man job and can be set at a later time, especially since he's not a track rider. My advice is the productive advice that will stiffen the bike up for you and feel better, TRUST ME. Then someday get your SAG set. Edited May 19, 2009 by NinjaNick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kip Drordy Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 This is terrible advise Nick. Adjusting the compression is the WRONG way to adjust for rider weight. Compression is a dynamic event that controls the rate of movement within the shock and only applies when the shock is moving. Setting sag is a static measurement, and is the first thing you want to do to when setting up your suspension.Your advise is to cover up the real problems going on in the suspension. To much compression won't let the forks move anywhere making the bike handle like shit since weight isn't transfering forwards and backwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaNick Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 (edited) You're welcome to come to Dayton anytime RACER and get humbled, and then you can buy me dinner. The quickest at home, by himself suspension tweak he can do is what I stated. SAG he can do later! Edited May 19, 2009 by NinjaNick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kip Drordy Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 You know who else thought they were doing things the right way? Natzis. Just because you think you're doing things right, doesn't mean you are.It isn't that I don't think he won't benefit from it, rather you're doing it backwards. Rebound and compression adjustments are for fine tuning. They aren't there to make a bike meant for a 180lbs person work for someone 275lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaNick Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 (edited) lol...good analogy up top.BUT! The rider weight really affects the rate at which the suspension bounces back after compression and vice versa. Just like if you were benching 200lbs, you can throw it back up a lot faster than if you were benching 300lbs. Less weight on you bike, quicker it'll bounce back. Like my 636 never had the SAG set, just compression, rebound, and dampening set, and it was STIFF. It moved when I sat on it, and when a light person sat on it, it wouldn't BUDGE. It was like a ROCK to them. My riding over bumps, etc is much better since I've tweaked my shit.I am all for sag set at 25-35mm and will have mine done when I got the time. I'm not arguing, I'm just saying. Edited May 19, 2009 by NinjaNick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flounder Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 (edited) I have to agree.. Setting the sag first is the most important and then the rebound and compression are used to adjust for more handling specific issues. To be honest, the springs on that RR are probably way to light for someone that weights 245. I doubt he will be able to get anywhere near the recommended settings with those springs in the forks and shock.. He will be able to make it better but really should consider sending his stuff to Reuben at 35Mostorports for a simple spring rate swap on the forks and shock. Edited May 19, 2009 by flounder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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