Rotors

[SJC1000rr]

I went out the other day and its not really chattering now. I think it just got too hot that session. I went the rest of that trackday without any problems, but want to get something better on it for next year.

[Moto-Brian]

+1, it could be uneven pad material on the rotor as well. Make any hard stops and keep the brakes on at some point. Rotors rarely actually warp, check the runout and report back before spending 100s on new rotors.

I'll show you two sets of GSXR1000 (07/08) rotors that go against your comment....

Rotors like anything will time out based on use. If they have tons of miles and track days, the pulsing you have at the track will show signs of warping.

A lot of times, it is the pads, but uneven wear and heat transfer will cause warping, also.

The reason you probably are not feeling it on the street is that you don't brake as hard as you do and for as long on the track. Warped rotors will show immediately.

My suggestion is two fold.

1) Get the stock OEM rotors and run new pads. If you have braided lines, cool. If not, get some.

2) Change and bleed the fluid. Too often, people overlook this in brake maintenance.

You can also look at aftermarket rotors. Galfer is made by Braking and Braking's rotors are great. The wave acts as a dispursal of heat and allows the rotors to work better under severe conditions as seen at the track. For street use, you'll never wear them out. Street guys tend to not believe you can warp rotors due to the fact they ride thousands of miles and never have an issue. In one season, you can warp rotors or time them out on a race bike. If not sooner depending on ability and how much you are at the track.

Good luck.

[Moto-Brian]

Oh, and Brembos are the shit. I wouldn't waste the money on them unless you are doing a lot of track days and maybe upgrade to a brembo M/C and obviously good lines and pads...

[Chrisoh]

Just stopping hard and doing an small stoppie shouldn't damage the rotors, You may have glazed the pads and rotors. Take some sand paper to both pads and rotors to remove any glazing or material.

Did you sand the rotors before putting new pads on to remove residue brake material?

If it did warp a rotor you may want to verify the calipers are not dragging to much on the rotors adding heat.

Is what you feel at the lever or the wheel/rotors?

Also look at EBC rotors. They are reasonably priced and work very well, I ran a set for a couple years on my 98 CBR 973 and never had a stopping issue.

If it only happened for a short time after one hard stop, Lizard could it have been the pad got shifted in the caliper or a piston was sticking a bit?

Edited August 7, 2009 by Chrisoh

[Cheech]

I dont think it will matter much either way. For the price just get both:) I got the straight because I bought mine for a different year bike (bigger) and that was what was available.

Thanks to shitty for pointing out that deal, I got the straights as well. Just went riding with them yesterday and today, between the Alth's, new EBC pads, SS lines, and new 5.1 fluid my brakes are smooth as hell.

[SJC1000rr]

After it happened, the lever seemed to come back farther then it use too and had very little initial bite then seemed to grab hard. When it did that, the whole front end of the bike would start to shake up and down. I let it cool down during lunch that day and went back out for 4 more sessions and didn't really have any issues, but did notice it when I was hard braking and the end of the back stretch. Its just more of a feeling of less confidence in them now then I had before.

I have Speigler SS lines front and back and I had just put on Carbone Lorraine SBK5 front pads. I had schmuck install all those and no we didn't scrub the pads before putting them on. Or the rotors. The stock rotors right now are blackened and somewhat spotted. We bleed the lines through with a full bottle of new fluid, but I will run some more through just to make sure theres no bubbles that were tucked away and became free.

As for the MC, I was looking at the Brembo RCS but I wasn't sure if it would work with my Speigler lines or not. Anyone heard about new MC's not working with SS lines?

[natedogg624]

nevermind CR just answered it below.

Edited August 7, 2009 by natedogg624

[Kip Drordy]

I have a brembo RCS and speiglers, all you'll need is a different banjo that's specific to the brembo.

[Chrisoh]

After it happened, the lever seemed to come back farther then it use too and had very little initial bite then seemed to grab hard. When it did that, the whole front end of the bike would start to shake up and down. I let it cool down during lunch that day and went back out for 4 more sessions and didn't really have any issues, but did notice it when I was hard braking and the end of the back stretch. Its just more of a feeling of less confidence in them now then I had before.

I have Speigler SS lines front and back and I had just put on Carbone Lorraine SBK5 front pads. I had schmuck install all those and no we didn't scrub the pads before putting them on. Or the rotors. The stock rotors right now are blackened and somewhat spotted. We bleed the lines through with a full bottle of new fluid, but I will run some more through just to make sure theres no bubbles that were tucked away and became free.

As for the MC, I was looking at the Brembo RCS but I wasn't sure if it would work with my Speigler lines or not. Anyone heard about new MC's not working with SS lines?

If your rotors are spotted and blackened they are glazed. They need to be sanded to take the glaze off.

When they are glazed what can happen is the pads actually slip on the rotor and don't have any bite. So as you squeeze harder and harder they may start a slip grab type behavior.

Take your front wheel off, take the rotors off, and then sand them down (evenly) to get rid of the smooth spots on the rotor.

[Moto-Brian]

Just stopping hard and doing an small stoppie shouldn't damage the rotors, You may have glazed the pads and rotors. Take some sand paper to both pads and rotors to remove any glazing or material.

Did you sand the rotors before putting new pads on to remove residue brake material?

If it did warp a rotor you may want to verify the calipers are not dragging to much on the rotors adding heat.

Is what you feel at the lever or the wheel/rotors?

Also look at EBC rotors. They are reasonably priced and work very well, I ran a set for a couple years on my 98 CBR 973 and never had a stopping issue.

If it only happened for a short time after one hard stop, Lizard could it have been the pad got shifted in the caliper or a piston was sticking a bit?

If it is from one stop, he's got an issue... I thought he was saying it was happening at the track under hard braking. Which if so, is an indicator the rotors have just simply timed out - worn out and needing replaced...

If after one time, I apologize - he's got some issues...

[SJC1000rr]

Finally broke down today and ordered some stuff. Ended up buying a set of Brembo HP rotors and Gilles AS31GT Rearset in Black. Got the rearsets on discount from hardracing as I had ordered Sato's and they were out of stock and switched them for me. Other then that, I'm going to take a look at the pads again and maybe switch to Vesrah's for the future. And then look at the RCS MC when $$ comes available.