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2005 GSXR750 - Race only...


Moto-Brian

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Ok, I have a 2005 GSXR750 race only. Details:

-Salvage Indiana Title

-Race built Superstock spec motor by Reuben Frankenfield - was his sprint bike

-25MM fork kit w/ .95 springs.

-Penske Triple rear

-Ti-Force complete Ti system and cannister.

-Woodcraft rears, clip-ons, case covers, and shifter and brake arms

-Speigler lines

-DynoJet PC III USB

-DynoJet Quick shift

-Vortex upper race stay

-Vortex sprockets

-EK520 chain

-Professionally painted Sharskins

-Vesrah SRJLs

-Braking Rotors (I can sub out the stock ones if you want SS legal)

-Lightened rear rotor

-Ignition switch delete and keyless fuel cap

-CRG Shorty brake lever - black

-Quick clipped everywhere

SPARES:

-Complete set of wheels with rotors and cush. Currently have Braking rotors on the front and can swap for OEM ones...

-OEM rotors

-OPP M4 Emgo bodywork. Upper and lower only. Damaged and repaired, but still lighter than anything else...

-Sharskin superbike tail

-Gearing out to Wazoo. I have more than enough.

-New 520 Gold link chain

-Vesrah pads

-EBC pads

-Spare swingarm

-Complete subframe

-(2) Tanks. One is prestine, but the blue doesn't match. The other is a stock blue one with a good size dent in it.

-Stock upper fairing stay

-Spare guage housing

-Spare fuel pump

-Spare air ducts

-Misc Spare Woodcraft rear set plates, replaceable shifter and brake arms, footpegs

-New Vortex clip-on bars

-Spare brake and clutch levers

-Spare Master cylinder assembly including recervoir

-Spare lower triple clamp

-Spare Arrow Shorty Cannister

-Spare Ti-Force Mid-Pipe

-Spare OEM front calipers

There's other misc stuff liek gaskets, etc.

I was thinking $9000 obo for it all. I am seeing 04/05 600s for $7k and other 04 750s for $7-$8k with next to no spares.

Pics:

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If you decide to get rid of some of your spares I would be interested in your extra set of braking rotors and what kind of extra master cylinder do you have?

Fuck you shitty.. you dont need braking rotors.. Come on man.. do a track day before you buy shit.. I cant do another without getting new rotors and pads..

Im going to kick you in the dick next time I see you... :slap:

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Fuck you shitty.. you dont need braking rotors.. Come on man.. do a track day before you buy shit.. I cant do another without getting new rotors and pads..

Im going to kick you in the dick next time I see you... :slap:

Sure I do. I have gotten use to the "feel" that a good rotor gives you and my stock ones dont do it for me. It sounds like he has some stock ones also. Really you need to upgrade your system on the 750. I know that the stock ones are capable of flipping you over but they dont have a good feel to them and the braking does not seem linear like my r1. I have new pads, lines and bled the piss out of them and they still seem crappy. So new rotors calipers and MC for me.

Right now I have to take care of 5 cars and 3 bikes, so I need to upgrade what I have instead of buying more.

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They have fine feel, your pads an your lines are what will give you the feel you need.

I am trying to get him to just buy a set of EBC Prolite Rotor for his 750, but $350 is too much for a set. Cheepo. I used the Prolites on my CBR 900 and had great results with them.

Main reason i went to Galfer waves was Fade issues, but since I can't run them for racing I had to give them to my dad.

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What would you suggest then? No matter how much I bleed them they still feel a bit soft at first. I have read tons of threads in the club racer and model specific sections of gdc and people are buying 70 a bottle brake fluid, brembo MC's and one guy is disassembling and cleaning his calipers regularly. So it is not just me. My R1 I can use 1 finger and there is immediate stopping, lever is frim and braking power is linear and predictable

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What would you suggest then? No matter how much I bleed them they still feel a bit soft at first. I have read tons of threads in the club racer and model specific sections of gdc and people are buying 70 a bottle brake fluid, brembo MC's and one guy is disassembling and cleaning his calipers regularly. So it is not just me. My R1 I can use 1 finger and there is immediate stopping, lever is frim and braking power is linear and predictable

For street use, you should not need all that.. Almost sounds like your getting air in your system or a shot master cylinder but definitely shouldn't be rotors... There is no reason that you should be having those problems.. My setup felt fine until I wore out the pads and warped the hell outa my rotors at the track. You have stainless lines on the front of the shittygix?

PS. Chris will be getting a kick in the dick the next time he passes me comming out of a turn.. :cry: although I do owe him and his pops for letting my use the tire warmers that day.. (Now I want a set :( )

Chris.. We are planning on hitting hocking hills on the 22 with the dirtbikes if your interested.

For you shitty

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BREMBO-MASTER-CYLINDER-NIB-FOR-YZF-R-GSX-ZX_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35592QQihZ018QQitemZ280150537511QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

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Flounder you are welcome to come try the r1 and my 750 since you can compare it to yours. If my 750 feels the same as yours try the r1 and tell me what you think.

I am planning to put r6 calipers on kristens bike and hear they make a nice difference

I understand 100% why you want to do it because you and I are the same when it comes to wanting things to be perfect as well as liking to work on things.. but when you sit back and look at the situation, does it really make sense financially to drop the money for the occasional street riding and a bit of feel.. I would say that 85% of the people that ride wouldnt feel the difference. Some people even like a bit of squish feel in the front brake.. I know putty does... (That is not a joke either.)

I know those brakes on that R1. they had the shit bled out of them and are stiff as hell. another thing to think of. Maybe your Mighty vac is loosing vacuum.. That could explain not getting them tight the way you want them.. Just a thought.

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Shitty have you set your lever on the number 1 mark on the dial?

I know a buddy who has the 05 600 (same brake setup) who runs just Vesrah pads and ss lines and has no problems.

If your lever is never getting firm then you need to keep bleeding, maybe have a shop to a bleed just to be sure. Check your fittings to make sure no banjos are loose or bound up. Also make sure you are using DOT 4. The $70 fluid is mainly for the 1ks who brakes have always been shit and get more work.

The stock setup on the street is fine and is easily a 2 finger stoppie.

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It is just soft at first, and I thought there was air in the lines somewhere but our 06 gsxr feels the same. I have pulled at least 1 qt through the system bleeding at both calipers and the MC. I used a mightyvac as well as traditional bleeding. There are alot of competent people on GDC that are not getting good results until they replace the MC.

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There are alot of competent people on GDC that are not getting good results until they replace the MC.

Im going to guess that most of the people you are referring to are racers or track day'rs from the board which doesnt really apply to the average street riders situation or riding style/ability.

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Well most racers won't use the Brembos MCs cause in WERA they are not supersport legal.

You may need to double check your pads and rotors for glazing. Also if you want more initial bite you can jump up to SRJLs from Vesrah. They have a good initial bite and are very progressive.

Also as I said above check the dial setting on your Lever. Make sure it is the farthest out as that gives the fastest initial response.

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Whoa....

Let's see... Where to start. Ok, first, I'm not wanting to sell the spares. They'll go with the bike. I think with the spares list and the set-up the bike has, it is worth it... I'll entertain offers, though...

As far as ChrisOh - Yeah, looking at a new 750. Maybe a liter, but I still rather enjoy the 750 more. Like an FX 600...

As far as the rotor deal - yes, the Braking rotors will provide better feel. They SLIGHTLY help with fade, but the full on floating set-up as opposed to the OEM is where the feel comes from.

Definately a waste for street riding and are pure bling for that, but for track use, a needed set-up. I had them as they were legal for SS events, but now that they are illegal, I only run them for trackdays and SB events. The OEM ones were for SS classes...

So, not selling spares, tell your friends this is probably the coolest track day bike you could own. Only a FEW 1000s piloted by expert riders (Todd and Etter) give me fits and it is simply a straight line deal - the bike is well set-up and handles well. Not excellent yet, but great nonetheless.

Ask Drew how fast it is...:D

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Actually, I am going to make him ride it after Mid-Ohio and the Pro Am event. He's gotta try real power...

No replacement for displacement..

Also, if Im not mistaken, Drew has never ridden anything but a 600... He should get a kick out of that...

I want those rotors and pads.. :(

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Willing to listen to offers... I am also willing to sell it with select spares as I have TONS of guys asking about them. Price can be adjusted according to what spares you want. However, it is more cost effective to buy as a package as the price is WAY better than if you bought the spares via Ebay or whatever...

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Hah... You got to be close enough to kick first.... Wait till I pass you on the 1k...

I see you like my new sig... :) Im just going to stalk Lizard until he caves.. I already hit his post on GDC... Chris, you at Putnam next weekend.. If not, putty and I and maybe corey from pony (I dont think you know him) are headed to Hocking hills to ride dirt on sat.. you should come if your not busy.

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I see you like my new sig... :) Im just going to stalk Lizard until he caves.. I already hit his post on GDC... Chris, you at Putnam next weekend.. If not, putty and I and maybe corey from pony (I dont think you know him) are headed to Hocking hills to ride dirt on sat.. you should come if your not busy.

Yeah I am control riding this weekend at Putnam on the new 1k..:guitar:

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  • 3 weeks later...

$8k for all of it. Again, tranny is brand new and even have a set of new shifter forks for "just in case"...

I am looking at an 07 750 and need cash or I have to wait until Spring...

The spares alone would cost you damn near $2k. That's $6k for a fresh SS spec 750 that can draft a 1000 and not drop too much distance and can handle more like a 600... Well, the acceleration out of a corner needs a gentle touch...:D

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