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Rod Bearing-ectomy with pics on the '06 GSX-R1000


NinjaNick

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Sharing this from another site. I always find this stuff interesting to see and follow, so I'm sharing it with you guys.

Note: Racing seasons mentioned are drag racing seasons.

OK this motor has been together for 3 racing seasons and is time for a rod bearing freshen up. It's pretty much run every week on every T&T and on the weekend bike races. It has a 40 dry shot also. Drop in high comp pistons, thin cometic head gasket and the 01-04 trans mod. The first pic I had already pulled the motor and taken off all the engine covers.

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Before flipping the motor over you have to remove the 11 top bolts for the cases. since we are splitting the main case they all have to come out. then flip it over. here it is with the oilpan removed. no metal and looks good. cleaned the pickup while apart.

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Now the GSXR 1K's have 3 piece cases. Here the trans case is removed an you can see the the trans. keep a check on your dowel pins, sometimes they fall out.

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Remove the trans. and set it aside. On the 1K make sure you have all 5 of the O-Rings in place. They may stick to the case half you took off. if so put them in there recess. they are very important!

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Remove the bottom main case. there are numbers on the case to give you the order to take them loose. once removed there is one more important O-Ring.

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Here I have already busted the rods loose and Yikes! I almost let this one go to long. Some of the bearings show through the first coating. 1K motors can't hold up like the 14 or the Busa. If you do a lot of spray (like this one) then you should plan on replacing the rod bearings. If not you might just be buying a crank and rods. This one would have not lasted this season.

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OK here are the new bearings. all builders are different so here is what works for me. Suzuki sets there motors up tight. I have found that by going with the next size looser bearing the motors live a lot longer. I have a pile of Suzuki cramks to back it up with. but that's up to you so use your plasti-gauge and check it out on your own.

make sure you us some quality assy. lube also.

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Next torque the rod caps and then the Suzuki gets a 1/4 turn more. I used new rod bolts but a lot of people reuse the ones they have. this motor sees spray and is run at high rpm all the time so I used a new set.

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I use Yamabond, I like it but any you choose should be good. Installing the main case being careful not to upset the all important O-ring. these are torqued in order then another 50 degree turn.

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Next install the Trans. Make sure your dowel pins line up on the bearings. more yamabond. And the other 5 important o-rings.

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After the trans. case is installed and bolted down I take a pair of vise grips and put them on the shift shaft and work it up and down through the gears. You can work the sprocket back and forth to make it shift. It'ss better to check here than back in the bike.

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all back together and ready to go to T&T tonight. took less than 2 hrs. hope you guys find it interesting.

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Sweet, what forum did you get this from?:flag:

http://www.bikeland.org/board/viewthread.php?FID=27&TID=55502&set_time=

Some of the best US drag racers hang out there. Ricky Gadson is a mod and visits from time to time as well. Brock Davidson is a sponsor and chats sometime there too. Lots of the guys there are serious drag racers that compete a lot!

www.bikeland.org is my home away from here. I was a moderator there in 2007-2008 for their 6r forum, but got the 14 and now not a mod. :(

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