How to change chain and sprockets

[BornSinner]

This How-To was brought to you by "kangaroo" and ws done on a 05 Yamaha R1

This write should help you on any other type of bike that you are changing gears and your chain.

GoodLuck

I have finally swapped chains from a 530 to a 520. It's a good idea to swap chains every 10-15k miles. They're relatively not expensive and wear out over time. If you race, of course chain life shortens dramatically. My bike's at 16k and half of miles were spirited canyon rides so I thought a change would be good and about time. Here's a how to and what's involved. The cost for a new chain 130. Chain tool another 80.

Tools needed:

36mm socket for the countershaft nut for 98-06

30mm socket for 07-08

32mm socket for the rear axle

5mm allen wrench for the sprocket cover

12mm wrench for wheel adjusters

10mm wrench for shift shaft

grinder attachment to electric drill

hammer

screwdriver or chisel

rear wheel stand

RK chain riveting/breaking tool

This starts with the bike elevated and the rear wheel removed. Run a search on how to remove the rear wheel if you don't know how. I made one as well as others. The bike is going from the stock 530 chain to a DID erv3 520 chain. This is a popular mod as the chain is thinner and weighs significantly less. So again a major benefit to your acceleration/maneuverability as your MOI drops. I have a 16 tooth Sprocket Specialist alloy countershaft sprocket and a 45 tooth Renthal alloy rear sprocket. I don't know the exact amount of weight I am saving but it is lighter than before.

Picture 1, shows how to remove the rear tire

Picture 2, shows how to get to the countershaft sprocket

Picture 3, to get to the countershaft sprocket remove shift rod. Mine is a gilles but the same idea applies.

Picture 4, remove the sprocket cover by taking out the 3 allen bolts, note one is longer than the others. I have one removed already in this pic.

Pic 5, how it looks with the cover removed. Push back the lock washer with a screwdriver and with a 36mm socket loosen. Trick is to hold the rear brake lever down as you torque it open

Pic 6, now to break the chain, grind off the rivet, choose any rivet.

Pic 7, once the rivets are ground flat, insert a screwdriver or chisel between the outer and inner link and hammer away gently. Once wedged in, give it a twist and the ground link should pop out and look like this.

Pic 8, shows the other link sliding out. Then you can remove the old chain. Be careful when removing so that it doesn't scuff up your swingarm.

Pic 9, comparing the 2 countershaft sprockets. The solid is the old AFAM 530 and the new one the 520.

Pic 10, shows the significant difference in widths.

Pic 11, with the countershaft removed, clean up the area with wd40 and an old toothbrush of wax and lube gunk that built up over time.

Pic 12, install countershaft with some bearing grease on the inside mesh.

Pic 13, add lock washer and nut but do not tighten yet.

Pic 14, new chain, remove 4 links for the stock length of 116 links for the 04 and 05, for the 06 - 118 links. Again using the grinding tool remove the rivets. But be careful so that you don't scratch the new chain accidentally.

Pic 15, install new chain carefully over the countershaft sprocket to minimize scuffing to the swingarm and through the lower swingarm brace.

Pic 16, master rivet link, add rubber o-rings

Pic 17, insert and connect between the 2 ends

Pic 18, add the 2 remaining o-rings and the side plate. Also shown is the side plate press that attaches to the riveting tool

Pic 19, riveting tool and side plate shown

Pic 20, slide plate with indent for the rivets close shot.

Pic 21, crank with wrench until rivet heads come out and the plates are the same width as the other links. Also the tool will no longer turn after a good press.

Pic 22, now to flare, using the flare insert and the rivet indent which holds the chain in place.

Pic 23, insert and press again and make both flares look like this. Turn until you can see the flare visually expand and it stops. This part is THE MOST IMPORTANT part you get right cuz if the chain breaks, it will break here and crack your case. You'll be out major bucks. If you're not sure get it to the dealer for the final flare or check.

Pic 24, rear wheel mounted and chain looped over the wheel. You can wipe away the factory grease and show the beautiful shine.

Now one last thing is to torque the countershaft sprocket nut. Again have someone press down on the rear brake and then torque it to the specified amount. Fold down the lock washer over the nut. Reinstall the sprocket cover and you're done

[NinjaNick]

CAUTION:YOU SHOULD NEVER REMOVE THE FRONT SPROCKET BY HAVING IT IN GEAR WITH REAR TIRE REMOVED.

I hope people don't just put the bike in gear and use all the torque on the shaft of the front sprocket to get it off by just using 1st gear to keep tension on it so it doesn't move. Bad...bad...bad.

You also can keep the bike in nuetral and shove a 2x4 or something inside the wheel so it takes the torque instead of the shaft while removing the front sprocket. "OR you can just have the rear brake pushed hard like he said"

.

[Angrish]

Good stuff!!

[NinjaNick]