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long t-handle allen wrenches


Casper

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Yeah T-handles are your friend. I wish I could find set of socket allens that fit a 1/4 in drive.

Alright maybe it is 1/4. I can never remeber what size is what. 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 drives?????

My socketed allens are middle so the 3/8 i guess. I got a nice little T handle that has 1/4 on the ends so you can use that to break losse then the T for quick removal.

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K fixxered 1/4 then.

I agree with you that the sockets come in way more handy then the T-Handles..

Nice thing about the sockets is that you can also put them on the end of your drill for the really long bolts... I would suggest getting the sockets over T-Handles any day...

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Why not buy both?

Personal preference.. I have both but I like the sockets and the smaller bit inserts better. I find that for smaller sizes, (stuff under 5mm) that the longer T handles tend to twist the entire length of the T which sometimes causes rounding off at the end.. ...

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I have found that the t handles are great for bolts with alot of thread and for race parts that get removed all the time espically when speed is a factor.You can do the one finger spin and get the bolt in or out really quick.

I think we may be talking about different brands of tools. I know that some of the quality T handles have a round shaft all the way to the end and are made of heavy quality metal. These you can definitely spin quick while working on things. The cheaper ones are a hex shaft all the way to the tip which isnt so friendly for spinning. I personally have attachments for all of my sockets that allows me to put them on my drill with or without and extension. I also have the smaller bits that you can insert into an attachment to use on the drill as well. I personally like using the drill for all of the bolts, especially the long ones. I jut make sure I adjust the torque settings on the drill so I dont over tighten and strip something. Kinda rhetorical since I just started a thread about stripped bolts today.. of course that one was caused by using an SAE bit where I should have been using metric.

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Only thing bad about T-Handles is you can't get much leverage to break bolts that have tightened over time loose. Now Fairing, Seat, and tank bolts no problem, but those damn Brake Caliper bolts or frame slider (Vortex kind) sometimes are hard to break loose.

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They're called "ball ends" retards... T-handles or allen wrenches with "ball ends".... Skilled techs, I see...

T-handles are great. Reasons that Rocky mentioned. They are easy to spin on and off if you use them for removing bolts that are on and off a lot. I.E. race stuff.

Drill idea is bad. Small impact is "OK", but still an issue in that a lot of common bolts are at 7 ft lbs at most. Stuff like triple clamp bolts and such should NEVER be put on with a drill/impact.

Only things for an impact to do is counter shaft nut (Flounder has the wrong type of impact!!:flingpoo:) and the axle nuts/bolts. I still only use an impact on the axle nuts/bolts in endurance scenerios. Anytime outside that - socket and ratchet is best...

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Ball ends spin just as well as the others from what i have seen when using it on the main bolts removed at the track.. I thought they were talking about something different....

I would never use a drill to put a bolt on the bike. I am bad enough at stripping botls doing it by hand.

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They're called "ball ends" retards... T-handles or allen wrenches with "ball ends".... Skilled techs, I see...

T-handles are great. Reasons that Rocky mentioned. They are easy to spin on and off if you use them for removing bolts that are on and off a lot. I.E. race stuff.

Drill idea is bad. Small impact is "OK", but still an issue in that a lot of common bolts are at 7 ft lbs at most. Stuff like triple clamp bolts and such should NEVER be put on with a drill/impact.

Only things for an impact to do is counter shaft nut (Flounder has the wrong type of impact!!:flingpoo:) and the axle nuts/bolts. I still only use an impact on the axle nuts/bolts in endurance scenerios. Anytime outside that - socket and ratchet is best...

Not sure of what your saying... I posted links to both the regular hex ends and the ball end style.. As far as the drill goes, I have a drill that has a ton of torque settings on it with the lowest settings probably around 7lbs, however for the small stuff, I always just use a ratchet.. I dont use my impact drill on my bike at all. I guess I should clarify. I have an impact drill which has NO torque settings on it and a regular drill which has adjustable settings. I only use the drill when it involves REMOVING long bolts. When it comes to putting them back in, I set the torque on the lowest setting just to get them in, then I hand tighten with the ratchet or torque wrench.

I was looking at Impact WRENCHES the other day when I went to buy the worm clamps for the resevoir install.... LIZARD... fack you for winning that argument...

Impact Drill

P230.jpg

Regular Drill - 25 different torque settings with the max around 36N

b574e5ad-48a2-4529-ab21-a572e6ec792a_400.jpg

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so one has a hammer drill setting, and one is constant hammer? and the drill has torque settings on it? correct me if i'm wrong.

Your wrong...

One is just a plain drill with torque settings..

Regular Drill - 25 different torque settings with the max around 36N

b574e5ad-48a2-4529-ab21-a572e6ec792a_400.jpg

The other is a Impact drill.

P230.jpg

There is another one that is a hammer drill..

P211.jpg

All 3 serve different purposes and function differently as to how they apply torque and impact.

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