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Wiring Problem


Jst2fst

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Pulse is probably just from the battery drain making the rears blink.

I don't believe the CBR post would work unless the bike turns OFF power to the running light, which it wouldn't since his running light would stay on then another element in the blinker lights up via power going to the 3rd wire. Basically he's sending 12 volts + positive for running lights then adding another 12volts when the blinkers on. It wouldn't do anything unless the bike kills a ground.

That's what I'm seeing I've tried four methods and nothing has worked. Last night I hooked back up the diodes and they allowed for independent operation just nothing blinked. This was the only method that allowed me to do this.

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I drew u a crappy schematic in the above post of what i'd do if your bike was simply pulsing + power thru the 3rd wire when the blinker was turned on and the other + wire stays on and ground stays on. If so the schematic would cause the light to turn off and on all the way when you turn on your blinker. The schematic is only if you really want your blinkers on all the time as running lights. It would be one relay for each side.

NC means normally closed. meaning those two wires (the grounds) are connected in the relay (left upper and lower wires) when the relay isn't getting + power from the blinker wire(bottom right wire). When your blinking wire supplies power the relay then unconnects those two wires(left upper and lower). When the blinker wire unblinks or has no power in it the relay rests(does nothing, normally closed) and your ground is reconnected turning the light back on.

Edited by Gump
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SPST – Single Pole Single Throw. These have two terminals which can be connected or disconnected. Including two for the coil, such a relay has four terminals in total. It is ambiguous whether the pole is normally open or normally closed. The terminology "SPNO" and "SPNC" is sometimes used to resolve the ambiguity.

you'd need a SPNC relay.

You should take your voltmeter and figure out how the bike works first. Take voltmeter negative lead and put it on the black wire that was connected to the light. take the red voltmeter wire and put it on one of the other two wires that were going to the blinker. turn the bike on, blinker off, and see which one of the other two wires is supplying voltage for running lights. Then leave the volmeter red wire on the wire that is supplying voltage, voltmeter ground wires stays on the bikes ground wire, and turn the blinker on and see if it stays on. If so good. Then put the voltmeter red wire on the other wire, voltmeter ground wire stays on the blinker ground wire, turn blinker on. It should pulse a voltage reading. A LOT. Then, just to check, turn your meter to diode test or continuity, turn bike off. put meter black wire black wire on balck wire that was feeding the blinker then touch meter red wire to a metal part on the bike, preferably motor. meter show show zero resistance. leave everything as is and turn on ignition key. should stay the same, meaning the ground wire to the blinker is connected to the frame of the bike or - on the battery. (same thing). then turn the blinker on, it should not change. I don't know what you know or don't know but all your looking for is to see how it works and if the negative (ground wire, black wire) always stays connected. you can stick your meter wires on a chunk of metal and it's just telling you that the two things your sticking the wires on are connected. I always use the diode setting because it beeps. If you put your meter on the diode setting and actually test a diode, a good diode will make the meter beep only when the wires are in a certain position(while testing a diode it must not be connected to anything). Basically you stick one meter wire on one side of the diode and then the other meter wire on the other side. might beep might not. then put the meter wires on the other way. it should only beep one way or the other. sometimes they don't beep at all, means it's bad, sometimes they beep both ways, means it's bad. I still don't think you need a diode though. Your meter when on the diode setting is actually sending it's own voltage from its battery thru one of its wires seeing if it shows up on the other meter wire. If the other meter wire gets voltage it beeps. Diodes just keep electric from going backwords or backfeeding. Or only allows the electric (call it water) to flow in one direction.

If you ever had trailer lights drive you insane, dim lights) it might be because there was a bad ground or a short. what happens is one of the + wires whether it's the blinker wire or the running light wire which ever one you are not asking to work actually can act as a ground. the electric "backfeeds" a diode would fix that but it's pointless you just fix the wires.

Edited by Gump
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Front Led blinkers pulse fast The factory relay cant handle the power so replace two wires and mount them to a car relay or trailer relay auto part store should have it google it led blinks U tube will help.

Rear Led blinkers you must mount a resistor to the + and mount the other wire from the resistor to the - wire running from the LED Blinker check on U tube.

This is how my busa Led are ran Im the one that did it.

Edited by wht_scorpion
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Like wht_scorpion is saying, think you just need to replace the OEM relay with an LED compliant relay. I just installed LED turns on my wife's 250R and it cured the same problem - all her turns lit like they should, but no flash. Went to AutoZone and spent $15 on a Tridon EL34 and plugged the bikes 2-wire connector onto 2 prongs and made a short jumper to connect the 3rd to a chassis ground ( subframe bolt a few inches away from the relay ) Not sure which pole needed to be grounded, but hook it up and if it doesnt work just flip the connections.

Here's a link to some pics of what I'm talking about - be a simple way to eliminate the need for resistors and make life easier.....hopefully

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=76116

Edited by Hellmutt
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Like wht_scorpion is saying, think you just need to replace the OEM relay with an LED compliant relay. I just installed LED turns on my wife's 250R and it cured the same problem - all her turns lit like they should, but no flash. Went to AutoZone and spent $15 on a Tridon EL34 and plugged the bikes 2-wire connector onto 2 prongs and made a short jumper to connect the 3rd to a chassis ground ( subframe bolt a few inches away from the relay ) Not sure which pole needed to be grounded, but hook it up and if it doesnt work just flip the connections.

Here's a link to some pics of what I'm talking about - be a simple way to eliminate the need for resistors and make life easier.....hopefully

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=76116

I put led blinker on my girl friend 09 250 and change out the relay on her and put after market tails with the led in the tail looks sharp

go with this resistor

http://www.v-leds.com/BlinkerWarning-Fix/Turn-Signal-Fix/6-OHM-50W-2-BULB-LED-p4783296.html

This is what I use no problems

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This thread is nothing if not entertaining.

I have damn near the same bike with LED's all over the place, and I know this issue very well. You should listen to the guy from Independent (Justin still?), he has the right answer. You're missing the load resistors.

If you attach the LEDs and THEY APPEAR TO BE ON ALL THE TIME, BUT ARE JUST PULSING REALLY FAST IF YOU LOOK CAREFULLY, then you have a resistor missing. The timer for the flash circuit is based off of an expected voltage and current draw, and when you change it, the circuit gets all Tom Brady and shits the bed.

The resistor must be in parallel with the LEDs, and it's going to be bigger (in terms of size) and get hotter than you might think. I built mine from big load resistors we had lying around the labs, but you should be able to get power resistors at Radio Shack.

Again, you're missing the load resistor. I've seen it on my CBR before. Put it in correctly and you'll be fine.

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