Leaderboard

I detailed a guide to safety wiring your bike based on the typical requirements of STT. However, this is also required by other ors or especially if you are racing. If racing, you need to wire a few more items, but overall, this should help get you started! I broke it up into the three levels seen at an STT event and what we require in those levels. Let's start with Intermediate first. Intermediate is required to have AT MINIMUM, silicone on oil drain plugs and oil filter. It is highly suggested to wire as what is described below, but silicone as minimal is fine. Now, some people get a little crazy with the silicone. You only need a small amount. You gooping it on and coating the entire thing in a mass of silicone is messy and is going to be a bear to clean up when you decide to remove it... Here's an example of silicone being used. Just a small dab on the bolt and where it meets the area it secures to. This allows it to not rotate... Uploaded with ImageShack.us Now, a suggestion for the Intermediate riders. Safety wire is your best idea when riding at the track. I know some of you are concerned over drilling holes in bolts or drilling holes in bolts and having them showing when you go to sell the bike. My suggestion is to get with the guys at Iron Pony, STG, etc. and buy a really cool oil fill cap and an OEM style drain bolt. You can actually get pre-drilled versions and that would satisfy the person not so sure on drilling. In any case, there are solutions. Advanced riders - for 2011, it is required to have the oil fill cap, oil drain bolt and oil filter safety wired for STT events. This is something that is very easy to do and with some practice, you can get it down to a science and zip through this stuff rather quickly. I am going to show a few suggestions to make the process a LOT less cumbersome and less labor intensive. Let's start at the top. What does a proper safety wiring job look like? The idea is that the wire is essentially pulling the bolt tight. That means that via vibration, the bolt will not back out and loosen. The ol' "righty, tighty - lefty, lousy" applies. If you are pulling a bolt tight, it needs to be pulled in the direction of "righty, tighty". SPECIAL NOTE: Try and do a small pig tail after you cut the wire once it is tightened to the anchoring point. See the picture below and notice we roll the wire in a U-shape or pig tail. This is because safety wire will cut you quick and if you do not pig tail it, you stand a really good chance of getting sliced open pretty easily... Here are two bolts that are wired and showing this idea: Uploaded with ImageShack.us You can use this idea with one bolt or many bolts wired together. All you need to do is look at the bolt and decide which way it needs to be pulled in order to tighten. Once you figure that out, that's where you pull from and secure at a point that allows the wire to not let the bolt loosen... So, taking that idea, let's talk oil filler cap. The same idea applies. You need to be pulling or in the case of what I will show you, not allow the cap to rotate counter clockwise and loosen. This is an example of a suggested idea for you riders out there. We are constantly changing oil. That means for every oil change, we would need to cut the wire, remove the cap and then re-wire it before a race. In the interest of convenience, we use a diaper style pin and wire it to an anchoring point to essentially do the exact same thing hard wiring would do, but the added convenience of being able to remove the pin to have access to the cap and simply re-pin the cap when tightened and off we roll. When doing this, use a small covering to allow you from getting the wire exposed. Not needed, won't cause harm if not covered, but it is so much more professional. You can also use shrink tubing to do the same thing and an example is shown later. We use Aircraft Tygon Tubing. I like the yellow color and it has a smaller I.D. for the wire we use. You can access this product in different colors and different sizes from McMaster-Carr... Here is an oil fill cap wired using a clip: Uploaded with ImageShack.us Now, the oil filter. Believe it or not, filters CAN back out. Many times, it is due to the owner not removing the o-ring that stuck to the motor from the old filter, but even without that old o-ring, it can vibrate and back out enough to leak. The idea is to treat the oil filter like a giant bolt. But, how do you drill an oil filter? The folks at K&N thought about this and they are one of the only companies that have a filter with a welded nut on the end with holes drilled through it. This is a point to wire from and secure the filter. Iron Pony, STG, etc. sell K&N filters and you can try this for yourself. VERY convenient! BUT, if you are like us, we use the OEM filters or Vesrah filters (also available through STG!!). This means, you cannot drill a wire point in the filter. PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO DRILL A HOLE IN THE LIP OF THE FILTER!!! So, what do you do? Buy a hose clamp that will fit around the oil filter. A 3" or similar should do the trick. Tighten the clamp around the filter and use the bolt that you use to tighten to act as a wire point. Simply wire around the bolt housing and place the housing so that it is in about the 7 o'clock position if looking directly at the top of the filter. Finally, pull the wire to a point that is pulling the filter tight to prevent it from loosening up. You can see here, we have a point somewhat far away from the clamp, but it works. It still does the same job... Safety wired oil filter via using the band clamp method: Uploaded with ImageShack.us Now to the drain bolt. The drain bolt is the leading cause of dropping oil on a track from rider neglect. You can always check the oil drain bolt to make sure it is secure. Wiring it also allows you one more time to check the bolt to make sure it is secure. Everything you have seen so far applies to the drain bolt also. Pull the drain bolt tight and anchor the wire to a point that will not allow the bolt to back out. Here, we have to pull it up along the side of the oil pan, but again, it is tight and is pulling it tight and no chance of it loosening and dropping oil. Oil drain bolt: Uploaded with ImageShack.us So, that covers what the minimal requirements are. Now, on to some suggestions and ideas in the next post!

Hey there guys I'm a fng from Logan Ohio, I love racing, I go to national trail raceway a lot on test n tune. I have a black 92 gt was n/a last year went 12.48 with a slipping clutch. Just finished up the turbo setup, hoping to get it tuned in a few weeks at dyno tune motorsports. I'm a desiel mechanic at kenworth in hilliard, I'm a big gearhead, I like anything that is fast doesn't matter if its a Chevy,ford, Honda i don't care. Hope to before apart of this community thanks, Ryan

GraveDigger... The NinjaNick wannabe

i live right by parsons and livingston and walk to the gas station all the time. in fact, i just walked down there to get a pack of cigarettes. there are much worse parts of town IMO. most of the major crime is usually drug or gang related. the worst problem ive had was someone breaking into my car. that happened when i lived in new albany too like i said earlier, open carry is simply a choice that we have. its not for everyone. you prefer concealed, someone else may prefer open. neither of you are right or wrong.

Also a member on buckeye stangs my user name On there is boosted92

glad you're okay man, but I don't think your bike has a shiny side to keep up

Knocking is bad, stop now. Shiny side up is good. $1500 is bad. Not dead is good. A cheap lesson, priceless.

OK then, GUYS won't dig you anymore!

they couldn't find braided brake lines and chrome them? pussies.

Oldie but a goodie... You know what makes a girl go from "aaah" to "mmmm??" Duct tape.

it sounds like this

charlie sheen is the white rick james