zukigsxr1000

welcome

i can't wait to hit bluegrass:D:badgerrock:

nice, count me in when they open up

Welcome, i hit the two road-abouts in eastgate a lot, we will have to ride sometime

i was gonna airbrush a carbon fiber design onto the bike...but... When i sprayed the black i just fell in love with the white and black scheme...

It might look a bit too plain, what do you guys think?

should i do some stickers or more graphics, i was thinking of gettin a sticker kit or airbrushing the red and white yosh symbol in the main black section of the fairings...or maybe adding some more colors?

ON TO THE PICS..............................

In this last pic the my fiance wasnt holding the fairing right, so it looks like the lines dont match up when they really do

I am off this up coming tuesday and thursday, so tuesday i will throw some clear on it and then put ther back together on thursday

Went ahead and sprayed the black today, I will post up some pics in an hour or so. Turned on the heater and letting the paint bake.. hopefully tomorrow i will have time to remove all the tape and check all the lines.

Then Clear coat on tuesday

sorry for the triple post...

I switched to HVLP about a year ago and Its a world of difference. The paoin flows so much better and it cuts the normal amount of orange peel in half

A good painter, will use his paint gun like an extension of his body and spary the paint so well he will have little to no orange peel at all.. so the factories use computer guided and cotrolled machines to paint most cars. these machines spary the paint with such low pressure to create little to no orange peel

the also use HVLP guns (high volume low pressure) versus a traditional spray gun. these guns flow the paint at a constant low rate of 10 to 12 psi while using same volume as a conventional spray gun.

so conventional guy--- 35 psi to paint

HVLP gun------------- 12psi

the lower the pressure, the less air to orange peel the paint

Was the paint job base coat clear coat, or single stage and how much clear coat was applied?

This will make a big difference in how much you sand to remove orange peel...... I have been painting for a while now and the shop I used to work did show quality custom paint jobs, some cars we would wet sand with 1000, 1500, 2000, and even hit it with 3000grit paper to give it a glass like look. Some times we would sand a car for a couple of days before we buffed it.It just depends on how much clear coat was sprayed on the bike...

And the whole process of wet sanding/ buffing is to eliminate orange peel.

definition of orange peel = when the pressure from the paint gun sprays the paint onto a project or suface it leaves an imprint or impression on the paint. Making the finish look similar to the surface of an orange rather then that of glass. seen in the OP pics

Single stage paint is when the base color and clear coat are mixed prior to painting. This is good because you can paint something in have the time versus base coat then clear coat.

BUT...... it makes wet sanding and buffing harder and limits the amount you can do before you burn or scratch through the clear..

Dual-stage or base/clear, is when you spray a base coat, allow it to cure then spray the clear over top. It takes a lot longer to do but it allows you to put a ton of clear coat on a paint job, allowing you to sand out the orange peel to get a mirror or "glass" like finish..

If he sprayed single stage I would start with 1500grit MAKE SURE TO USE A SANDING BLOCK OR WEDGE.... get your water nice and warm and even put a dash of soap in it, The warm water will make the sand paper easier to bend and the soap will make the process a bit more gentle.

The sanding block is used so you have a flat even surface to sand versus the groves you will leave just using your hand.

Stay away from the edges of the plastics,or big creases in their design cause the amount of paint will be thin there.. You will know when to change to a higher grit when the plastics look hazey and have no shine left.

Work your way too 2000grit then use 2500grit to top it off. Take your time and be gentle

I recomend using some mild rubbing compound with a soft towel to hand buff versus an electronic buffer, cause if you hold an electronic buffer in the same spot for a too long it will burn through the paint job.

REMEMBER all you are doing is sanding down the orange peel to even out the clear, be gentle and change your sanding water frequently

Call me if you got any questions 513 313 3856 Andrew

Got my exo 700 in the mail yesturday and i Love it and the free teknic gloves are pretty nice too..

Thanks for the help fellas

time again for another update......

Since its so freakin cold the last couple weeks I gave the paint some extra time to set and cure. So today i began masking out the graphic and taping it off, all that is left is to scuff sand and begin airbrushing... I am laying it all by hand with 1/4 inch plastic masking tape. Hopefully it will come out even on both sides of the bike:D

couple of pics getting to overall design down

Then I masked off all the areas that are gonna stay white

gonna prep all the panels and tank again tonight and begin the airbrushing tomorrow.

AND YES, MY GUEST BEDROOM IS PINK...

welcome

I will take the SS lines, well will they fit an 01 gsxr1000?

welcome

well went ahead and bought an EXO-700, should get it in a couple of days... It just seemed like a better buy then the 1000, and from what I have heard its a lot lighter. I also picked up the aeroskirt chin gaurd peice and a smoked shield. thanks for the help, i will post pics when it arrives:badgerrock:

And I also got a free pair of teknic gloves:cheers:

welcome

Thats probably what i am gonna do, just go try a bunch of different helmet brands and see what i like.... I plan on doing some custom paint/airbrushing on it anyway so it doesnt matter what it looks like...

unfortunitly i have a fat head and wear an XL.... thanks anyways

welcome, i live off mill road, like 5mins from pipin

welcome

wow.... i live off of mill rd, like 10 mins from rumpke

the throttle just needs to be adjusted.... on most bikes the throttle has 2 cables attached to it, one to open the throttle when you twist it and one to pull it closed... So when you roll on the throttle and release it, it springs back to idle/rest position.. just tighted the rebound or "close" throttle cable and it should not stick anymore... this can be done at the actual throttle body and at an in-line adjuster right below the throttle itself.....

well Its been a very busy off season for me and its time for an update.... I took off the forks (which were leaking when i bought the bike) and had cycle specialties install new oil/dust seals, cleaned um up and put them back on the bike. Found a deal of a life time on criagslist, Yosh RS-3 with mid-pipe..........................only$75:D There is a small scuff on the bottom of it that is barely noticable, i might make it into a shorty..

Removed the tank and shot 3 more coats of primer on all the body parts, sanded them and threw down some base coat... Hummer Civilian bright white... Gonna let it cure over the weekend then airbrush on monday, i am gooing with the factory graphic scheme but instead of stickers or plain color stripes....... I am gonna do an airbrushed carbon fiber look that will fade to black at the bottom of the fairings..... I might throw some skulls in there somewhere...... here are some pics of the progress....

naked

yosh i got for $75:badgerrock:

sexy new fork seals

last stage of primer

hummer white base

here is a design i drew up for this paint scheme

got a new exhaust system so i am selling my old can,

Came with the bike when i bought it, original owner told me it was a D&D, but it has no logos so i dont really know.. I chopped about 9 inches off it and painted it black with high temp grill paint

$65obo

I also have a stock mid pipe i will throw in

depends on the price, I am also interested