Ghost954rr

I just throw the hang loose. It looks close enough to the standard wave, so no one gets the wrong message.

psshhh... do 'em all.

Thanks. I'll check it all out. so far no problem, but those electrical gremlins are sneaky. If I need to, I can run them through relays and heavier wires. I can always have my stator rebuilt to supply more current to the battery if that becomes a problem. As far as heat output goes. xenon bulbs run cooler than halogen.

^^ If that's true, why isn't it blowing my 20 amp fuse when I flip on the high beams? or all of them when I turn the key on?? The factory harness is rated at 20 amps.

They only pull 35watts each. No need for heavy wiring. I only used three bulbs. The low beam cuts off low enough to not blind people, but yes, the high beams would scorch your retinas.

I've been putting off doing this because of the cost, but I got a smokin' deal on 4 bulbs and ballasts. Haven't been able to ride in the evening thanks to all the thunderstorms, so I don't have an opinion on operation. As far as looks go, they're killer!

I'm good on the manual tensioner. They're a good idea for a track only bike, but not a daily driver. Requires too much adjustment. As far as torquing in a pattern.. that's just being a good mechanic. You can break parts torquing things down all willy-nilly like.

yes. I'm using a factory service manual. I found a Craftsman digitork at sears with 3/8" drive going from 5-80lb/ft.

Thanks guys. That's exactly what I needed to do: take the tensioner completely out. cams are back in, in time, and nowI just have to go buy a new torque wrench cause the only one I have goes from 25-250 lb/ft.

I'm replacing my cam chain and guides. There seemed to be no way to get them off without removing the cams, so I did. my service manual has not been very helpful. I have the new guides in, and the chain is around the timing sprocket on the crank shaft, but I can't seem to get the chain on the cam sprockets with the cam sprockets in place. I haven't put the cam holders on and tightened them down yet, because the manual says... and I quote word for word... "install the cam chain over the cam sprockets and then install the intake and exhaust cams" Well that's just not helpful at all. Any ideas would be great.. I think I have me cam chain tensioner all the way loose, but it's hard to say for sure with the little tool I made to turn it and lock it into place. I barely got the cam chain off when I had the cams installed, but the chain wouldn't make it past the bolts on the cam sprockets, which is why I removed the cams. With a new chain, I doubt I can install is the same way I removed it.

I have a 2000 wrangler (lifted) as my daily driver. I run BFGoodrich All Terrain TA K/O's 32x11.50R15. They do great on the road and better than any other All terrain I've had off road. I've been pleasantly surprised. I didn't think they would be THAT much better than the Pro Comp all terrains I had earlier. I haven't checked prices in a couple years, so I'm not sure how much a set would cost. What size are you looking to run?

Kimono MicroThin w/aqualube http://www.condomdepot.com/product/detail.cfm/nid/189/pid/2208

Thanks for the heads up. One more thing I don't have to look up and lose hair over.

Oil seals are not water seals. Check for water, lube anything that was submerged.

Thanks!! I still have a couple things to do, but it won't be anything to detract from the cleanliness.